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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 20, 2008 - 11:11am PT
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 20, 2008 - 01:09pm PT
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Chiloe wrote: Hey, where's the post-bivy shot? That one is a gem, sums up the people
& the story!
Hmm, not sure which one you mean?
Here's Julia finishing the traverse, with our bivvy ledge visible over her shoulder:
Or do you mean the shot where she's talking to her mom on the cell phone, and everyone's relaxing for a moment before tackling the last half of the climb:
Or the one taken right when we finished the climb?
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 20, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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GO, those all are great shots, but the last one's kind of special.
You guys had quite the trip.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 06:15pm PT
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Yes, GO. Always nice to see people clearly having a good time.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 23, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
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Duncan's Moonraker photos, followed by MH2 quoting Alvarez, reminded me about
Hard Rock, which is one of my all-time favorite armchair mountaineering books.
Armchair because I've not done a single one of the climbs, and yet read it cover to cover.
Highly recommended, for any of you armchair mountaineers who don't have this.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 23, 2008 - 06:28pm PT
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One memorable essay by Royal Robbins describes climbing Dream of White Horses.
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Churningindawake
Sport climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 23, 2008 - 06:31pm PT
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Nice pictures!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 23, 2008 - 07:09pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 23, 2008 - 07:15pm PT
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The Dream of White Horses chapter wraps up with Leo Dickinson's stunning photo
of the first ascent.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2008 - 07:49pm PT
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Thanks. The modest image sizes still came out looking good at this end and didn't take fo-evah over the dial-up.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Nov 23, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
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Great photos, all.
Rappeled into Wen Zawn in 1977 and did a climb called “Quartz Icicle” just left of “Dream of White Horses.” Photo by Candy Muir of Rob Muir and I . Amazing location.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 23, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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That rappel into Wen Zawn is a real sac shriveler.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 06:29pm PT
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And some days even a walk around town gets exciting.
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Nov 24, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
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Great thread here, Andy.
I'll let you know of some hopefully unintended consequences,
just because I've been affected for, what, a week and a half
now.
Every time my eye falls on the thread title, my mind launches
immediately into
"By the Sea, by the Sea, by the beautiful Sea..."
which proves to be quite the catchy tune (as in, Can't Get It
Out of My Head)
But I also can't help thinking, "Wine-dark Sea" and that is
ample compensation.
WWOD?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 24, 2008 - 08:32pm PT
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The odyssey continues...
Some of Andy's shots were taken at a little-known cliff near Vancouver, which provides an entertaining traverse. Probably easy 5.10, and at high tide one to five metres above water. Maybe 100 m long. Very good swimming, lovely spot.
It's in a municipal park, but the authorities don't seem very keen on climbing there, or indeed public use. Quite a wealthy neighbourhood, with all that goes with it. So a very low profile and limited use are good ideas. Luckily the nature of the traverse, and limited parking, discourage many.
The "surf" shots were from the West Vancouver seawall - the traverse would also have been getting a good pounding that day.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2008 - 01:19am PT
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WWOD?
What would Oscar do?
Jump in feet first?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2008 - 09:45am PT
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Then take me disappearin down the smoke rings of my mind,
Let me forget about today
Until tomorrow
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 25, 2008 - 12:17pm PT
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Then take me disappearin'
through the smoke rings of my mind,
Down the foggy ruins of time,
far past the frozen leaves,
The haunted, frightened trees,
out to the windy beach,
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 25, 2008 - 12:29pm PT
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Then take me disappearin' through the smoke rings of my mind,
Down the foggy ruins of time,
far past the frozen leaves,
The haunted, frightened trees,
out to the windy beach,
Whoops... no good windy beach shot readily available. I'll add one later (in the meantime, look at the one Chiloe posted directly above)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 25, 2008 - 12:55pm PT
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Looks like Dylan-imprinted great minds think alike, or something....
The windy black beach posted above was near Vic in south Iceland.
Below, the classic Morning Glory on Great Head in Acadia.
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