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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Nov 27, 2018 - 08:53am PT
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Yesterday we climbed a long very loose crack fa so that we could put up more unneeded sport routes in the ORG and have plenty of trundling to do on the next holiday weekend.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Gaby hasn't been climbing much or running, etc. for the past month or so but wanted to get out today so we did a round of 7 old easier familiars with Rafi and Analia (Martin was off on his annual mountaineering trip to Cerro Vallecitos. Let's hear it for the Mountaineers!).
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Gaby hasn't been climbing much or running, etc. for the past month or so but wanted to get out today so we did a round of 7 old easier familiars with Rafi and Analia (Martin was off on his annual mountaineering trip to Cerro Vallecitos. Let's hear it for the Mountaineers!).
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Figured out the moves and bolt placement for this monster upcoming FA today. 5.10/10+, 15 bolts, full 35 meters. This one is so good.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2018 - 07:43pm PT
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Got out to Hidden tonight.
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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It's not 5.10+... it's another 5.11c.
I did a terrible job of reading this route - but the grade bump is a decent reward.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2018 - 08:28pm PT
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Also got a rope up on the line to the right. Dare I say it might be easier?
Also, only 30 meters or so since it is on the next ledge up - this is the general route at first look -there is a stacked dihedral set at the top that looks fun.
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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New routing in the ORG- good stuff!
Mike you get out on the ice like all the time!
Our approaches are so burly that we have to pace ourselves and take rest days between sending but these lines are worth it.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2018 - 10:10pm PT
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Dude that ain’t no colorado ice. How far are you from Libby. Have you seen some of what is going on over there?
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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yeah Mike Granite Lake in the Cabinets near Libby serve up similar adventures. Thats an hour and a half away
its a low snow year so far in this area, climbing access is pretty good right now
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Maintenance and exploration.,...
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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That looks so good Jaybro
desert splitters to last a lifetime
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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My lord Jay, that does look nice, the black patina...
I see two parallel light colored streaks mid way up, right of the corner. I that an anchor?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Tried to do my usual solo up hidden gully but OMG there was a ton of snow (PS . Anyone know what era my army surplus bindings are?) anyways the approach took 2 hrs and then when I got up into it it was just too deep. Felt reasonably stable but the 25ft head wall at the top of the first snow field was completely missing. the narrow part at the middle of the hourglass is supposed to be a 25ft tall almost verticle ice chimny . Above that constriction is the 2nd icefield and then good steeper ice to the top. It was neck deep on me and the thought of the 2nd icefield being loaded up like that was not comforting... My first naked thread of the season Nice butt slide back to the road exposing a layer that did break free and slide.... Some nice young ladies from boston were nice enough to have broken trail up to Terror Tory which I had never done before this was a really fun pitch that salvaged the day :)
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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A low snow year means good access for us in the Northern Rockies
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Got to be the third human and sole over sixty acscentionist (that one will probably stand a while) up this new 5.11 offwidth On Battle of the bulge today! I did a new rte a couple hundred feet to the left in 1988. How did wemiss at least getting on, this striking, line?
My glasses however did not make it to the top....
Important note, watch where you put your thumb in tight chicken wings....
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Dec 10, 2018 - 04:36am PT
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Trad, you asked @your ski bindings. They’re Silvretta Saas Fee. The go-to approach binder of the 60-70’s. Yours are a later pair when the plate was added to the toe. Of note, the cable lever throw is a releaseable system based on where you position the little hook catch, in theory...I do remember the cables break regularly, and always carried a spare. Still have a few old ones around. The bindings were very useful as they fit most any boot, even rubber shoe pacs.
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