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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Russ, they only rap-bolted half of Half Dome. So really, they rap-bolted Quarter Dome.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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oh shiit!!! Now somebody has rap bolted Quarter Dome too! Oh the Humanity!
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Fat,
I really don't want to encourage you, but your persistence in maintaing the "Chop it" posts, amidst all the high and mighty ethics diatribes is making me laugh out loud. You are definitely getting under people's skin and that is even funnier.
Sometimes ya just gotta laugh at the sillyness of all this !!!
Cracko
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xtrmecat
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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I usually just lurk but this is too much. I have learned from my heroes and those that have climbed before me enough to get a set of standards that I climb by, ethics and style if you will. Most of my heroes and mentors are from the days of old and Yosemite. Some still there, and some not. All I know is trad is the proudest form of climbing I found I can do and this climb seems to be a big letdown to what I have always thought Yosemite climbing, ethics, style, and acceptability to be. Sad day indeed.
I like WB am not good enough and walked on by. I am too old to ever climb at this level now, but if I could I would not even consider this as a classic line or even what I would want to do while visiting.
Bob
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Off-Width Loving Crack Whore
Trad climber
SLO
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Dirt Kenny-
Sean went through several partners.
Katie Brown- Left before the climbing started
Jake Jones- Worked the initial pitches until leaving to deal with the blown engine on his vehicle
Ben Montoya- Continued where Jake left off until needing to leave for his summer job
Sarah Watson- Had a bad experience with another partner on El Cap and was asked to join the team. Then she sprained her ankle while carrying a heavy load.
At this point DR's documentaion died due to a lack of funds, and he jumped in with Sean.
After equipping the upper 1,000 ft, Sarah re-joined to climb the route with Sean.
More info can be found in the article (Rock and Ice #165)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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If you think Fatty's getting under my skin, then you've got me all wrong. In fact,
if he goes up there to chop the route, I'd like to help him! I'll chop the first
set of anchors once he goes down to chop the rest...
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WBraun
climber
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Systematically arguing for rhetoric and sophistry above wisdom certainly flourishes here.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Please, let's not encourage the Fat One.
I mean, every time he says: "chop it!" I get the giggles.
This thread is getting a little long in the tooth.
It would be cool if some of the young people, you know, like members of the new guard, would post up.
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ec
climber
ca
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this thread is just about dead...
Let's all go do our own thing now.
 ec
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Gene
climber
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Bolts and Ethics, Summit, March 1961, Yvon Chouinard
Bolts have three uses: as rappel and belay anchors, for protection, and for direct aid.
{Snip}
2. Protection. Whether or not to put in a bolt for protection is a problem which is difficult to solve by an objective set of rules. {Blah, blah, blah, yada, yada, yada.}
On a first ascent, if the next lead looks like it will be very difficult, dangerous, and offers no chance for protection, and if the leader is an excellent and capable climber, then he is justified in placing a bolt. However, it is only justified if he thinks that it would be very dangerous even for a better climber than himself. For this reason, it is important for the leader to know his exact capabilities at that moment and to be able to judge a pitch on sight.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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When I read someone mention a rap bolted sport route next to snake dike i thought "Ppppthhbb. Lame. I'll probably climb it, though."
LOL. We all like fun. Is Yosemite a place for it?
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Sounds subjective to me Gene...
EDIT:
And thanks for adding YC to the list of the self-appointed.
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flyingkiwi1
Trad climber
Seattle WA
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Systematically arguing for rhetoric and sophistry above wisdom certainly flourishes here.
Certainly this charitable contribution to the fortune cookie message-writers of the world must be foremost among the positive outcomes of this entended discourse.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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DMT says,"If you see fattrad? KILL HIM."
LOL
Pretty sure the walk up there would kill him!
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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walk up there?
are you kidding?
he's like, TOTALLY connected man!
he even sent me an email and offered me a ride up there to the top of HD in john "water-board" mccain's flip-flop-express-'copter if i'd help him chop the route (on rappel)
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Gene
climber
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Sounds subjective to me Gene...
No Sh#t,
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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So does anyone know about all the other routes in the same area as Snake Dike? I noticed while doing the route one time all the other bolts in the area within spitting distance of the route.
Now I'm just starting to wonder what routes those are and how they got put up.
Does anyone have a comprehensive guide to all the routes on HD? Something that's been kept up over the years with all the changes and new routes?
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Orion
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Well tarbaby, you asked for it I am of the new guard since I only started climbing in this decade, I learned to climb in Yosemite and do most of my climbing in Yosemite.
I would have had more respect for the FA team if they had stopped at the arch where it sounds like the line ended at least the line that they could climb with their abilities or acceptable risk. Leave the rest for another person to climb with more skill. Seems that the arch is where the climb should have ended for these guys.
Don't do anything for me, or put up routes on rappel because the line would be classic, only if I could climb past this blank section. That's just it you can't CLIMB past the blank section.
I thought Yosemite had an ethic where that you climb from the ground up and place gear or bolts on lead, it's a traditional area. To do otherwise is against the grain of the area. Rap bolting exists in other places, go do it there and the community that you are trying to put up a route for who don't climb X routes will appreciate it.
Did the community need this route on half dome or did you need to do it. and make it go to the top?
The runouts that the FA team had to do on the apron, and other places in the valley make sense to me and I like the spice of climbing the route the way that they did. I often stand there as I clip a bolt on the apron and am so happy it's there and think about standing there for a long time pounding on the FA.
This is part of why I like to climb in Yosemite and I wish people would respect the ethics of the place. NO not all the routes are done or have been done this way but your decision to rap bolt is a deveation from the local ethics.
Sam
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jennie got it right a while ago.
There's a style question, and a rock alteration question. Ground up is probably better style, but may have worse impacts on the rock, and I think that outweighs the style points.
The alternative is not to do it at all, which might have been the best choice here. But we shouldn't let all those pin driving traddies off the hook either.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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500 hahaha!!!
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