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huh
climber
anchorage
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Albert Einstein, Tiger Woods, Charles Darwin, John Bachar...
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Ray-J
Social climber
cali
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with Bachar,
Climbing was no longer a geek sport...
We had this guy, who was obviously a genius
Looking like a goddamn surf god,
Who could fukking climb without a rope,
Then blast hi-brow jazz on his sax at night
At enchanted desert digs...
That sax changed everything;
Hidden Valley was better,
So-cal climbing was better, too.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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the sun bright reflecting in the granite
your movements a smooth dance
climbing so high
you fall into memory
let me tell you one more time
you matter to us all
let me say one more time
I love you
now as I can’t sleep
trying to comprehend this loss
I feel you smile beyond my sight
Letting me know that one day we all shall fall
and you will be there to catch us
for love is eternal
it’s always here
We will see you again when it’s our time to fall
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CrackAddict
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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I had the pleasure of doing some soloing with John, Scott Cosgrove, and Dave Shultz last year the day of the Joshua Tree climber's reunion. It was a great experience with 3 great people that I will always treasure. I have known John for about 20 years now, and he had always been a hero to me since I started climbing. Far from being conceited about his unparalleled accomplishments, he always seemed very humble about them. I remember coming down from Sentinal rock one time (circa 1989) and seeing him, clad with a walkman I could hear clearly, casually soloing Bikini Whale. No fanfare, nobody taking pictures, or even watching. I reminded him of that recently and he couldn't even remember soloing it. Just another day on the rock for John... I doubt if it has been soloed by anyone since, or will be anytime soon. What John was obviously proud of though, was his son. It was great to watch the excitement in his eyes when he demonstrated some of the magic tricks he and his son were mastering together.
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Phil Bard
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, OR
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To go with Anastasia's poem...
Reed's Direct 1982
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Welsh Snowflake
Trad climber
Llanberis, UK
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To John - who will be reading this from the lofty ethereal clouds where all other climbers / mountaineers will eventually dwell and share their stories ...
I never met you, but you have been an iconic idol in my climbing career especially routes in Yosemite many moons ago.
Rest in peace, and remember that Jonathan Livingston Seagull aspired for more speed and was more motivated than the rest of his seagull clan. His life may have also been shorter than the rest, but he is also in the place you are resting in now with achievments that none can match.
Love and peace to your family.
Welsh SnowFlake
Snowdonia, Wales, UK.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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High Flight
Oh! I have slipped the surly bonds of Earth
And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings;
Sunward I’ve climbed, and joined the tumbling mirth
of sun-split clouds, — and done a hundred things
You have not dreamed of—wheeled and soared and swung
High in the sunlit silence. Hov’ring there,
I’ve chased the shouting wind along, and flung
My eager craft through footless halls of air....
Up, up the long, delirious, burning blue
I’ve topped the wind-swept heights with easy grace
Where never lark nor even eagle flew—
And, while with silent lifting mind I’ve trod
The high untrespassed sanctity of space,
Put out my hand, and touched the face of God.
 A sonnet written in 1941 by John Gillespie Magee, an officer in the RCAF, a few months before his death in a collision while training.
Although the poem relates to flying, it has many elements which could be about John.
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
BC
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I never talked to the man, but saw him in J-Tree a few years ago. I never said hello, but the circumstances meant that introducing myself was out of the question, being as I saw him at the base of lower right ski track upon rushing to aid a lead fall accident that brought a chopper... John was the last thought on my mind then, but he's the first right now.
The man continues to be an inspiration, and in the predominantly rap bolted sport area I call home, I'll continue to bolt ground up, and lead the chossy conglomerate cracks onsight, on gear before they can be bolted. Not only is it more pure, but it's MUCH more fun.
Thanks for the lessons from afar in respecting the rock, condolences to family, friends, and an entire community.
Nigel.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Corona del Mar, circa 1975.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I remember a story that a guy that looked kind of like a young a young Cosgrovel told me once.
Said guy had a rock fall on his hand almost severing a finger. He showed me it, maybe a year later, the extensor was history, but he could still pull with it.
" After the accident, I went to the meadows and hung out, drinking beer, day after day... One day John came up to me (at Tenaya Lake?) and said something like, "what are you going to do, sit here and swill? or get back into it?" Then we went to the sar site and worked out, then I got back into climbing."
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Irma Lagomarsino
Boulder climber
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Jul 10, 2009 - 01:36am PT
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I had the supreme pleasure, with my family, to experience John's slide show 2 months ago here in Humboldt County (at Far North Climbing Gym). Inspiring and jaw dropping. John knew my x from the early 1980s, Yabo. When I asked about Nita (my roommate in Yosemite), he mentioned SuperTop. I went there that night, and saw the numerous posts of Yabo, which which warmed my heart, and connected with old friends. Thanks John. Respectfully, Irma
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L
climber
It's a big ol' Moon a talking to my heart now...
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:07am PT
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The photos on this thread are simply incredible...like John himself.
And what beautiful stories.
Thanks for herding all those links into one corral, Anders.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:38am PT
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Reading John's posts in the links and his resurrected threads is a bittersweet experience.
As one reads them, "listens" to what he is saying, and pictures him in the minds eye it all seems to be brought home even more forcefully. Yet in his words we can still catch glimpses of him.
(thanks MH)
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caroltee
climber
SF, CA
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:39am PT
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Saludos desde la tierra John...
As you lived, so true to your vision, so you passed. Few can say that, and it's a pretty awe-inspiring thing. Thank you for reminding us to breathe poised at one's edge.
My most heartfelt condolences to Tyrus and Paola and all of John's nearest and dearest.
Carol Tonelli
Thanks for some great musical memories over the years
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