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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Aug 27, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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Pos i tive Vibrations....Yaa uh!!
Great thread... thanks!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 27, 2010 - 01:13am PT
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did the First Nation use kilometers as a distance measure?
shouldn't their distance unit be posted too?!
I always thought it ironic that the colonies succumbed to a Napoleonic distance unit...
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 27, 2010 - 09:10am PT
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Tami,
I'll buy the non linear, cyclical view.
Ojibway shaman and member of the Order of Canada, Norval Morrisseau chose to see the world around him this way.
It all makes perfect sense from here.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 27, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
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Many traditional cultures, not just those in what is now North America, didn't measure travel in distance but in time. That is, how long it usually took you to walk, paddle or otherwise get somewhere. Number of days or sleeps, possibly subdivisions of days, although until reliable chronometers came into use, that was mostly sun-based, and so somewhat seasonal and subjective.
The big difference for the Squamish people being that they were (and are) somewhat maritime-oriented, and travel on the ocean is a different proposition than travel by land, especially around here.
Perry, did you guys go up Sigurd Creek? A nice outing, eh? How's the trail?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 28, 2010 - 12:04am PT
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Rrrrr! A piratical Tricouni, red bandanna and all, trying some of that new-fangled equipment.
A bit higher up, Mt. Garibaldi in the background. Bandanna pocketed due to strong winds. (This is from the same place as the photos Andy posted upthread.)
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 28, 2010 - 01:45am PT
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MH, I knew you'd come through, a slabfest for the ages. I still have an old photocopy of Glenn's original guide- no climbs harder than 5.6! Right. Your rainy day shot reminds me of a night hanging on the wall listening to boat traffic and watching Woodfibre belch its magic through the mist. Classic Squamish.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 28, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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Hey Mighty,
Tricouni appears in fine form!
We started up the Sigurd Lake trail and branched right at some obvious signs and a great trail up the east ridge of Sigurd direct to it's summit. Two thousand meters of rise over six kilometers from the trail head at the Ashlu bridge. We were punched by the the time we got back to the car. Grouse Grind? Kids stuff.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 28, 2010 - 09:46am PT
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Tami,
The Sigurd Peak trail is in excellent condition.
I expected a thready epic through the devil's club, (a la John Clarke) and lo and behold, the BCMC and others have done a ton of work to make a great trail. Thanks!
Pelion and Ossa look like great objectives in their own right and the Sigurd Trail is the obvious gateway into the north end of the Tantalus. Imagine starting at the Ashlu bridge and hitting all sixteen summits to Thyestes?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 24, 2010 - 12:24am PT
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The year is drawing to a close, and autumn is well advanced. His Majesty isn't yet crowned with glistening winter snow and ice, but the time is not far off. Here he is, on a damp October afternoon:
There wasn't much garbage to pick up today, not even in the "hidden" nooks and crannies in which people secrete things. But a few metres below the top, I found an intact china bowl. Nice one, with flowers. In the past, I've found plastic and metal bottles and cans of all sorts, and plastic dishes of many kinds, but never china. Surprisingly, there were some others on top in the rain. While I gloated over my prize, one of them asked if she could have it - a poor student. So it found a new home, and I suggested it would be a nice reminder of her adventure.
The view, was.
And although the hike up was dampish, it really started raining later.
Taken pretty much from centre-left of the previous photo.
The trip also saw the acquisition of three loaves of fine Norwegian bread, and other diversions.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 02:00am PT
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God help the poor cat if it gets blown south to Sumas without papers...
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Oct 24, 2010 - 11:04am PT
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Perfect Squam climbing weather!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 24, 2010 - 01:48pm PT
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Yup, definitely weather for aid climbing and sasquatch sleuthing.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 24, 2010 - 04:15pm PT
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PB: Imagine starting at the Ashlu bridge and hitting all sixteen summits to Thyestes.
Some friends have done the traverse starting at Pelion and Ossa, and ending at Alpha. Three or four days? Extending it at both ends might bring it to five or six.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 25, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
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worth quoting:
Glenn Woodsworth is a Coast Plutonic and petrologic giant. Equal to Jim Monger, Roland Tabor, Peter Misch, Scott Babcock, Joe Vance and now Ralph Haugerud
Thanks, BJ.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 25, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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Glenn (two x n). He's also had an impressive career as a mountaineer, rock climber, and writer, and has some interesting ancestors and relatives.
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Oct 26, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
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What a great thread! By nature of the date of my conception, I can't contribute to the proper decade but I thought I'd pop in briefly anyways.
I saw that my friend Keith Nannery came up and I passed it on to him although he isn't much for the interwebs. He kind of retired from climbing in the 80s for sailing and building his trimaran (how my family met him). When I was a wee one I knew him as "Neato" cause that was pretty descriptive to a small child with all the cool stuff he did. He ended up back in Washington several years ago and I inherited the remnants of his pin rack and old jumars. He got back into climbing a couple of years ago and we got a pitch up Zodiac together but no farther. He had a rappelling accident with some broken bones several months ago and headed back to England to recover and care for his mother. He tried to describe a couple of short unrecorded FAs he'd done on some back side Squamish crag but I couldn't figure out where exactly. I think he was planning to take up sport climbing and live in Spain or some other crazy new trip!
Since winter is coming in quick, any exciting winter wall climbing stories from back then (aside from the earlier mentioned rare ice climbs)? I'm kind of curious to check out some winter aid climbing up there some time, good winter routes or ones to avoid?
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Randy Atkinson
Trad climber
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Dec 18, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
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Hi you guys, well Bruce finally got me to come and visit, as he masterfully scanned some old slides that are hopefully of some interest. To Anders thanks for starting this thing. I have not read this in quite some time, but have thoroughly enjoyed all of the posts, and the memories that flood back. And a special thanks to Peder, whom captured the essence of a friend, that I only really climbed with in the late 70's, John Rosholt, that tribute got me going.
I have had great pleasure in being a weekend warrior, with Squamish as a place I hold dear. Thanks to the Alpine Club of Canada's, Rock School weekend of instruction, myself, Dave Lane, Jim Campbell, Cam Cairns and other,s got a taste of something we really embraced as the sport went thru a huge Renaissance. And Anders just so you know, Don did buy us beer! For me it was 1976, mom and dad gave me a new rope as a grad present before school finished, not a good thing for school.
Joe Turley picked me up hitchhiking with my steal shank boots, tubular webbing harness, and that new rope. Banana Peel, Boomstick Crack, and what a wonderful day. I was hooked. Hitchhiking was how we got to Squamish. Those with cars, such as Anders beetle, were good to know, though Anders charged a nominal fee/ gas thing, versus Robin Barley whom no matter the weather, conditions, etc. was always keen and off to scrub something. I loved it, pouring rain, HH on, soaked and scrubbing with a future first ascent in sight. Those brits , Robin and Kevin, have had huge impact on the place let alone the Croft’s, Becham’s, Fraser’s, Hart’s and a piss pot of others…
I can't seem to type like some folks and will slowly muddle through this but I feel just so fortunate to have met, climbed with, partied with, hung out, traveled with so many of you here. The cast of characters is vast indeed, and have brought many great smiles. I also would like to say that the John Howe slide show was the evolving event that the Vancouver climbers(rock mainly) looked forward too. Showing their slides, drink, bullsh#t, slag, heckle, and generally have a great time. Heck you Seattleites would venture north.
So here are some photos.
Cheers,
Randy
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 18, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
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Welcome, Randy!
When was your first climb at Squamish? 1976? 1977? How about your very first climb? If I remember rightly your parents, or at least your father, did some mountain hiking and maybe mountaineering?
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 18, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
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History bump, eh?
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MH2
climber
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Dec 18, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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"have thoroughly enjoyed all of the posts, and the memories that flood back"
Well, you've anted up now.
Great photos!
Very cool to see Knacker Cracker getting climbed. I think its back, now, but strange how a route we all walk under so often lapsed into obscurity for a while.
That boulder problem in the bluffs is 3 bolted routes, now.
Nice capture of expression on Werewolves. A good kind of climbing photograph.
And you don't need people in the picture to make a person laugh, apparently. I won't say which photo did that for me so as not to prejudice others.
Nice to see a new photo of Tami. She looks oddly peaceful. Peacefully odd? Must be plotting her next move.
Also I see railroad property being trespassed on. Anders, what is the statute of limitations?
Andy Cairns
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