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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jun 11, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
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Kelly thanks for posting up the video. I watched the event every day after surfing some great waves myself.
I missed the day at "Cloud Break" before they moved it to "Restaurants" when the judges and committee deemed it too big to compete. Many of my friends that did see it say it was the single best day of surfing that they ever saw. The best surfers in the world paddling into some of the biggest barrels imaginable!
As I mentioned up thread that swell is forcasted to arrive on our south and west shores tomorrow A.M. I'm really stoked and hoping that my favorite breaks will hold the size with out just closing out witch is often the case.
The spots that can hold a swell of that size get very busy.
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Nohea
Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
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Jun 11, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
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Aloha O-Man,
Hey if you see Kai B. out surfing, please have him get back to the shop to finish up my Scorpius XM.
No pics but I enjoy surfing the oc-1. Saw some of the Fiji action and yea that was some pretty incredible barrels.
will
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jun 13, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Bela
climber
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Jun 13, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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Climbing, Skiing, Surfing. Three greatest sports on earth!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 13, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
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One thing that differs, for me, with climbing and surfing...
When something heavy was going down in my life, I'd go surfing.
Call it avoidance, call it procrastination, call it healing.
It was all of the above at different times, and sometimes all together.
For instance...
I was working in a coffee shop in Dana Point and got a call from my Mom. I instantly felt a disturbance in the force. She didn't need to say it, I already knew. My long lost father had passed away. I had only seen him once since he left when I was ten.
My boss told me to split, so I did, and headed straight down to Trestles on my bike.
Uppers was grey and glassy and chest high waves were hitting the point at a nice angle.
Best of all, there was no one out(???!!! believe me here) and i had a freshly waxed up new board.
It was a very emotional session.
As I waited for waves I stared out at the horizon, knowing my father knew the area well and had sailed the channel countless times. I realized then that we shared a common love for the sea. He was part of me.
When waves would come I put my new board to the test. Winding up and punching. Gouging, pumping, smacking. I was surfing aggressively.
I let out so much anger that I hadn't expressed.
I proved to him I had become a man, a strong man, gotten good at something...without him, but hopefully I could make him proud.
I felt him there, I really did. And it was like the first conversation I had with him as an adult.
When I would kick out in the bay tears would be streaming down my cheeks.
I surfed my heart out. Literally.
Tonight is a night I wish I could go down to the point, alone, and surf my heart out.
The desert is hot, and even if it wasn't, a boulder circuit just wouldn't cut it.
Sitting on top of the boulder and watching the sunset would be nice- introspective and healing. Not climbing, though.
Something's just not the same as salt water therapy.
Edit: sorry to get all heavy or be a downer. Surfing and climbing are supposed to be FUN.
THEY ARE FUN!!!
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east side underground
climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jun 13, 2012 - 11:36pm PT
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+1 on the salt water therapy - hope everything is cool jefe - cheers
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 14, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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Thanks brother.
As sure as the sun sets, it will rise again.
(and hopefully it'll be offshore, and crackin', and the tide'll be right, and there'll be no one out, and your back will feel good, and your board'll be workin good-- for all you fakkas lucky enough to be close to the ocean.)
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 14, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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why not move back jefe? I don't think I could move away, even the 30 minutes it takes now seems too far sometimes.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 14, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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I moved back to my hometown to be close to my mom.
There will always be waves.
My mom is more important.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 14, 2012 - 01:42am PT
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lately because school is out the Coast has been all zoo'd out! water feels good. did go climbing atPoint Dume the other day!
bump for Ventura surf when it hits!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 14, 2012 - 10:34am PT
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ah... yes your mother is more important. Hit me up if you make it up near santa cruz, I'd be psyched to paddle out with ya!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 14, 2012 - 10:52am PT
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pyro
I really like that photo from Ventura(?). Did you take it?
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viejoalpinisto
Social climber
Pahrump, NV
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Jun 14, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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What versus?
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viejoalpinisto
Social climber
Pahrump, NV
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Jun 14, 2012 - 11:53am PT
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not really
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viejoalpinisto
Social climber
Pahrump, NV
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Jun 14, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
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I changed my mind
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jun 14, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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How about Body Surfing and Climbing ... Complimentary Pursuits?
Yep. Great exercise and a tonne of fun without a board.
Come Hell or High Water (Trailer)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOez2mFNk2s
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jun 14, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 14, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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This one little boulder problem kept me stoked all last week, and kept my mind off heavy sh¡t.
Hell, even figuring out what to name it kept the chatter at bay.
It's a valid little bulge. A big move to a crimp then another pull to a pocket then the top.
After scrubbing lichen off a few holds, I put it down first try.
I settled on
One Shot V2.
Climbing IS theraputic for me in its own way.
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