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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 17, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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Any photos?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 19, 2012 - 03:02am PT
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It was pretty wet Gary, so my camera only came out once... I think i got a shot of epps cranking some desperate V0+ test piece tho, Ill see if it came out.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 23, 2012 - 01:34am PT
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Man, I miss the smell of Woodson when it's wet! Gettin' fat out here on the east coast...never been this heavy.....EVER!
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Friend,
I haven't been back to try Greg's Crack...it shut me down pretty hard the day we saw you. Compared to the seam, you are definitely on the better climb. The seam is short, hard, and painful. I guess you could make that claim for a good portion of the cracks at woodson, but it seems most appropriate for that climb. We thought it was a pretty big sandbag at 11+. Has anyone done it? Or been on it? Consensus? (Also, I thought Cat Crack, in the same area, was pretty fun.)
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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Finally getting back on the hill. It may be getting to be spring/summer, but lower hill afternoon sesh's are sweet!
Doug and I got out on Thursday and had a ball. started climbing a little after 5 and finished a little after 9.
Warmed up on the practice boulders. Then I got spanked by Allenby's sh#t show lieback/mantel/highball just below sunday afternoon.
Doug did a few laps on the sunday afternoon layback before we moved up to Substance Abuse and the the sweet 10+ face climb right across from it.
You can just barely see Doug's "F*#k ya! that climb was awesome!" smile
And last but not least we finished up in the dark on two kneebashing fun fests. This one is for all you "name that climb" junkies : )
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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...then i got spanked on Allenby's sh*t show...
Not sure which one you're referring to.
Makes me smile though!
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Friend
climber
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I agree, Cat Crack is killer.
We thought it was a pretty big sandbag at 11+. Somehow that doesn't surprise me...
Nice photos Horvath, and classic Megas Doug.
Re. the Y Crack. Finally climbed it, it is the crack on the boulder above the one ATS gave the coordinates for, a few posts back. It's dead obvious... except that it doesn't look anything like a "Y". Or maybe I need my eyes checked. Great climb... it seemed like someone had made a trail to it recently.... if anyone was up there and lost a piece of gear, feel free to email me and ID/claim it.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
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i'll have to get a photo of it sometime Rick... Ron just pointed it out to me one day and its listed on one of his topos as 11+ : )
one of my favorite grades
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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May 10, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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hey friend i was up their a few weeks ago. I didn,t lose and gear. did you see the old glue ups out their.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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May 13, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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LOVE my megas
If you lost a pair of glasses on the hill, they are at the base of Robbins.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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May 14, 2012 - 03:28am PT
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Greg, I would appreciate if you would quit bouldering all my routes. Did you check out the thin potential to the right of substance abuse?
The knee banger kinda looks like the soloflex.
On the Allenby deal, (which I propose to name "Richard Eugene" since he isnt gonna put a name on it) - it was something everybody pointed at on the way up the hill but nobody ever tried. So one day we decide to take a serious look at it and it had all the hallmarks of unclimbed rock. Lichen on the footholds, debris in the only handhold and undisturbed deadfall at the base. We took turns trying it, I got nowhere, but on like the 3rd try he pulled up and mantled onto the crescent ledge. Then he screwed around for 20 minutes before finishing it. I tried a couple more times with zero luck.
So Rick comes down and tells me its probably 10D. Im like F YOU if it was 10D i woulda climbed it. And he actually argues for a 10D rating even tho i couldnt touch it. I mean I probably would have sent it if it were 11D! 10D my ass. I think after 25 years he has relented and admits it could have been a little harder (ya think?!). Ive asked alot of people and havent found anyone else who has done it. Since this was probably 85-86, i think its safe to say its Allenbys FA.
The face climb opposite substance abuse is "summertime blues" 10D (V1 now i guess). Me and Rick did that at the same time we did substance abuse.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2012 - 01:09am PT
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HA! that story sounds about right. You mantel that ledge and then just ponder the next few moves. or in my case scary downmantel and drop.
as for the thin potential to the right of substance abuse. Its been done. I believe Eric Roed put up Relapse 11- sometime ago. Definitely more dirty than substance but also fun.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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o and soloflex is incorrect : )
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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May 15, 2012 - 08:49am PT
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Once I stood on the ledge I felt I was at the point of no return.
With my butt "puckered up" I finally made the last couple of friction
moves over the top.
Needless to say I never wanted to repeat it.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 14, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
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If that flake is what it looks like, that's a funky, flash distorted, night shot of Slapstick!
"knee banging"....yup!
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jun 15, 2012 - 03:21am PT
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C'mon....you can id that photo. The classic sandbag pictured involves a high-step on to that feature. From there?????
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 15, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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Have I done that problem Doug? You undercling/pinch the bottom of that flake/xenolith before the highstep, right?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 15, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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wtf? what is this? is that just a a sweet angle photo angle on Rockwork Orange, or a doable-looking crack on Wodson I've never done?!
tap tap tap....
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jun 15, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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^^^I had the same question.
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LMo
climber
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Jun 15, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
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Pretty sure that is at Rexrodes. I don't remember the name but I am sure Mark, Greg, or Doug will. Although now that they are done with finals they probably won't be on supertopo as much...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!