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acidbreez
climber
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Jan 12, 2016 - 04:12pm PT
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Dan, thanks for the photos and kind words. Ice is in bad shape until the last two pitches. 13 cm screws would go in about 2/3 in some spots. Glad we took a set of cams; leading to some rock and trying to dig out a crack for belay. That hike down did take forever :)
Aivaras
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Jan 12, 2016 - 04:53pm PT
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thanks for the info Aivaras
brings back fond memories of how at the top we had to cut away the lead ropes off our harnesses with a knife, as they were frozen solid 15mm or so of solid ice from being wet all day then freezing. could'nt possible untie them!
then the hike down at night!
we would go about a half hour or so trading off breaking thick, heavy trail. then collapse into the snow for a little nap!
however after about 15 minutes or so we would start to shiverin' and be forced to carry on
makes for everlasting memories yes?
good job guys!!!
was very happy when i heard you made it down
way to getter done!
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acidbreez
climber
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Jan 12, 2016 - 05:52pm PT
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I was pretty damn close to cutting that rope off too :)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 14, 2016 - 09:47am PT
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He'll probably get mad at me for posting something else about him on the ice thread, I just think it's a hilarious picture to headline an article. Quotes seem to be from this thread.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2016 - 11:58am PT
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Burchy, on this thread fosberg, said someone from Tahoe told him they soloed it 25 years ago. Stewart Johnson, replied saying it was likely him, but he soloed the SS. He added Jay Smith and a friend could have done it. I emailed Jay about it, he said they did it roped, but possibly another guy could have, but he is not sure how much did that guy self belay or what. I am not a detective, but I did my best to find as much as possible and to avoid false claims. All I cared about is climbing the route. Didn't know if it was gonna be the first, second or third FS of it, or if I could find a party at the base I would be psyched too. Did not claim it was THE first without a doubt, I asked for it to be more general in the article, as it could have been done. Bill McConcache (BMcC on ST - he did the 10th ascent) keeps a record of parties who climb it and according to him he knows of no other solos. Could have or not, the experience would be the same for me or anyone who COULD have done it before me, or after me in fact. I think the Alpinist does a great job with the article, mentioning the history, other parties, the correct length of the climb (finally someone!) and in general a great article that does the route justice. Hope you guys like it, I think Chris did a great job here:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16a/newswire-recent-activity-on-big-yosemite-ice-route
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2016 - 02:42pm PT
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Walleye and everyone, you may find this article about Peter fairly cool: http://sustainableplay.com/the-natural-profile-of-peter-mayfield/
Talks about soloing the silver strand, other soloing in the sierra and his life. Mentions the supertopo too! :) Came across it a while back while researching the history of ice climbs in Yosemite Valley. Glad I remembered it..
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
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Jan 14, 2016 - 05:34pm PT
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hahaha! awesome! also: great work, Darling :) just don't do that too often or i'll wring my hands and fret
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fosburg
climber
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Jan 14, 2016 - 08:12pm PT
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Yea, too bad I can't remember that guy's name. He definitely told me he soloed the Widow's Tears, not Silver Strand. That grade of ice has been routinely soloed over the last 30 years.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2016 - 08:40pm PT
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fosburg
climber
Jan 14, 2016 - 08:12pm PTYea, too bad I can't remember that guy's name. He definitely told me he soloed the Widow's Tears, not Silver Strand. That grade of ice has been routinely soloed over the last 30 years.
I thought you said from Tahoe, than Stewart clarified it was him on the strand, earlier in the thread. I made sure to say first documented. I don't doubt it could have been soloed. Wi5 is not the big deal, it is being in yosemite in the right time...no supertopo aside from the last few years. Haha. Anyway, I would only be stoked to hear a story of another free solo long time ago. Neither that other guy, nor I are influenced by ascents of the other guy. Both did it in different times, in different conditions and walked away to tell about it. All that matters really..hope if he sees these reports he could message the people in the Alpinist or Climbing and tell own story, if he/she chooses to.
D2R2, according to info I have, Dean did do the WT, but roped. Probably didn't really matter to him. He has soled stuff that is wayy wayyyyyy harder.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Jan 14, 2016 - 09:22pm PT
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Proud Climb Vitals!
Nothing like Canada to make Cali ice
Seem soloable eh?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
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We should climb in Tahoe sometime soon SJ! A friend and I may go to Lee Vining/tahoe next week, I will do my best to tell Brian what we end up doing, so maybe we can all climb or hang out. Still want to hear the full story on Everest and the Phantom Wall on Huntington...
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JohnnyG
climber
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Jan 15, 2016 - 07:34am PT
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That's the only time I've enjoyed helmet cam footage of climbing. (looking at the video on alpinist.com)
My video paused right when you grab the slanting hold with your gloved hand, and I was thinking "take off the glove!"
nice job. looked like a sweet day!
fun to pontificate and investigate about who has done it in the past, but I don't think we will ever be satisfied with the answer, nor is it very relevant. Unless a climb is picked out by recent ascents, previous ascents are almost irrelevant. the ice changes so much from day to day, year to year. Every ascent is you own personal experience.
Ice climbs and solos are so personal and fleeting by nature
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Jan 15, 2016 - 02:32pm PT
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Sounds good vitals; stormy period next week with snow levels above lake
level= sierra cement= good ice after things lock up!
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gregfromvermont
climber
Yosemite
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Jan 15, 2016 - 07:25pm PT
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Paul Crawford, who has soloed Silver Strand and Sentinel Falls just told me that a guy named Pat Horne soloed the Tears in the late 80's. He said Walt Shipley watched it go down and proclaimed it to be the most badass solo to date.
When I climbed the Tears in 2012 I talked to Jay Smith right after my ascent to gather info about the route. He said it had had at least one or more solos by guys who didn't say much about what they did.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Jan 15, 2016 - 07:37pm PT
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With leashes?! No spray?! Crazy!!! Is that even legal?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 15, 2016 - 08:03pm PT
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That's the name Jay mentioned in the email to me! He said he doesn't know if he was self belaying a few sections or not. Tried to Google him, but couldn't find anything. Would be awesome to track him down and hear the full story. No matter if he belayed or didn't that is simply bad ass to solo WTs in late 80s! Does anyone know much about him in general? If he soloed the tears back than, I bet he has done some impressive stuff all over the place?!
Spray or don't spray. Seems like every party that climbed it this year has photos or trip reports up somewhere. Who cares, it is climbing...share or keep it to yourself, it is not that important in the grand scheme. :)
Paul Crawford, who has soloed Silver Strand and Sentinel Falls
Like the full sentinel falls with yabo tooth and all?! Paul is known for a lot of new routes in Tahoe area and all around the state. I know he has a super hard route on Middle Cathedral and as I remember he was close to fee climbing the grand illusion a few years ago!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 27, 2016 - 09:51pm PT
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Yo Kevin, grab Chappy and do some repeats. With today's tools you guys won't have to pull a rope out of the moth bin.
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