It takes balls to use nuts...

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McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Nov 16, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
That piece looks fun - meant to work in 2 planes looks like? Haven't seen that posted before. Looks like the center of gravity could be too high? Yeah Jim, I'm not into hexes all that much either.

Steve, what's a CNC?
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Nov 16, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Remember ball nuts? You have to be nuts to use balls.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Nov 16, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
I have more ball nuts than tri cams. Ball nutz are cool. I don't seem to have the balls to use most of my nuts anymore though. At my age I'd be nuts to use all of my balls anyway. If this keeps up, somebody will be accused of plagiarism......but nuts to that!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 16, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
This isn't the three attitude nut mentioned earlier.

A CNC is a computerized metal milling machine. You enter a drawing and it gives you back the finished nugget.

The nut above was made by two guys in Colorado, one of two. I bought a bunch of funky prototypes from these guys all made by hand.

Very whimsical design.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Nov 16, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
Ball nuts can be the ticket when nothing else works, but they often work so good that they're almost impossible to get out!
miwuksurfer

Social climber
Mi-Wuk
Feb 14, 2014 - 11:14pm PT
Offset nuts changed my life.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 15, 2014 - 01:44am PT
Have you checked out the Wild Country Superlight Rocks?

Best design in recent years and they weigh nothing.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Feb 15, 2014 - 03:43am PT
One more very rare nut reached the Nuts Museum last year! This "nest of nuts" was made by Grivel in the seventies. I would like to express here again my gratitude to Denis Pivot and Gioachino Gobbi for adding this treasure to the collection.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 15, 2014 - 09:51am PT

Pretty neat, Nutstory. Those could be used in the Gunks, where
horizontal cracks rule. Just bend them over to create a slip/nut!
MisterE

climber
Feb 15, 2014 - 09:55am PT
I think my picture belongs here, as well:

nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Feb 15, 2014 - 10:06am PT
Unfortunately, I missed these old and rare ones a few months ago:

And now, for the history buffs, the Tricam labels (from the oldest to the most recent ones):
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Feb 15, 2014 - 11:26am PT
Can anybody tell me about these? Extruded aluminum, galvanized cable, aluminum swages. No marks of any sort. The two cut faces appear to be milled. Surplus?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 15, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
Nice Grivel stacking nut! How many versions did they sell?

I saw some Laprade stackers in an auction recently.

Banquo- The swaging on those nuts is pretty sloppy with respect to the amount of exposed cable end so they might be one offs even though they used a good swager.

MSR sold cabled nuts but I have never seen a set to compare.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Feb 15, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
They do have the look of a one off set except for the top, bottom and large faces are extruded surfaces. If somebody went to the trouble of having isosceles trapezoid extrusions made they surely made a number of them.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 15, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
That detail along with a power swager would certainly point to production.

MSR is still my best guess.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Feb 16, 2014 - 10:04am PT
I didn't know MSR made nuts but they are pretty simple and anybody can. SMC made some I think.

I was hoping Stéphane might have a thought.
Jaysen

Trad climber
NY
Feb 16, 2014 - 10:33am PT
whens the last time someones climbed el cap without cams? seems like an interesting challenge..
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 16, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
Jaysen- You can find part of your answer here...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=445546&tn=20

1973
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Feb 17, 2014 - 02:15am PT
I am very sorry Banquo, but these nuts do not say anything to me. This time, I am sure that Maestro Grossman will be the man for a genuine expertise. They are not made by SMC.

Steve, I am not sure that the Grivel stacking nut was ever marketed, one more reason to make it so hard to find. The same week I received it from Denis Pivot, there was one sample on eBay.com. It was just incredible, as I had never seen such a nut on eBay before.
I too saw the Laprade Coinceurs Gigogne on eBay recently.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 17, 2014 - 10:20am PT
Bunch of Hype. nuts are easier to place and offer way more protection possibilitys than pins. gaurenteed if nuts did not work so well we would still be pounding iron.....
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