Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
|
|
Funny that you asked about that- I just finished scanning some of these. Below- you are correct that Toula has them reversed: True Grit climbs the main corner a ways, then swings boldly around the arete and into the bottomless dihedral to the left.
[img]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_3K2U0FRaarU/SgDVlWGoJ0I/AAAAAAAABUU/8l-UOAKKZa8/s800/Sedona%20Dreams%20Come%20True.jpg
[/img]
And I like the name Kickstart Spire (summit of Dodger below)- it's boringly named the Coats-Grossman route in the guide. Note the chunk missing from my hammer handle- I believe you blew it up drilling the rappel bolts in your typical three blows!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Who are we fightin', who are we fightin???
Memorable line from that biker insider tell all, if I recall correctly? Right about the time that the author gets his ass kicked to end the study! LOL
My old favorite offwidthing football jersey after a bout of right side in! And Contacts!
How large was the summit of Kickstart? I remember a fairly slender formation?!?
Dreams Come True was really good as I recall. All nasty looking from below and full of good holds once you suck it up and go! That route should have seen a few repeats by now.
|
|
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
How's this for a topout??!!
And there are enough stinky dudes represented in this thread.
Hows about a chick cranking B1 and smelling good doing it??!!
Thanks again SG,PD,Coats- you guys have provided a sh!tload of inspiration, past and present.
|
|
Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
|
|
Is that top-out on "The Mother of All Boulderproblems"?
|
|
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
|
A lot of AZ climbing is stinky dude type stuff. I remember things improving in Flag when the Pit got developed.
|
|
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
Riotch- not M.O.A.B. Twister.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath- lots of stinky chick type stuff too!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 10:42am PT
|
Well, I chatted with Jim Haisley recently and he was the mystery belayer on A Shot in the Dark on the Sine wall. His recollections about the route matched mine. Notning but a few RPs and some thin, hard face climbing on a flat portion of the wall. Jim recalls 5.11ish difficulty. Left side of the Sine Wall if I recall correctly and it likely hasn't been lead again.
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 10:47am PT
|
steve, how many routes have you done that haven't seen a second?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 11:44am PT
|
Not very many Murry since I usually came back for a repeat myself unless the climbing was just horrid!
Topo of the Sine Wall anyone? Is A Shot anywhere on it?
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 11:57am PT
|
steve- that's cheating!hahaha we know you can send em' it's when others are not willing to venture up that truely makes a statment!! ( not that your trying to prove anything- just your inherantly bold style!!)cheers! edit- cool got to be the 420 post!
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
|
No mention of A Shot In The Dark on any topo I have. Bloom is working on a new book for that area, so now's a good time to identify it and get it in there.
Where's it located?
|
|
rick d
climber
tucson, az
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
|
gregory-
that would be the sine wall-
also helps if you change the image name.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
|
Yup... just curious where the Shot in the Dark route is located.
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
|
Just checked - it's not in our sheets...
Edit: We have Sine language: Broken face crack to triangle flake
Who did you do that one with, Steve?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
|
It goes up the flat area left of center. Post a current topo and if there is a blank space in that area , that's it.
I did a route called Sine Language in there that takes the jagged column bottom on the right side. I think A Shot goes up the flatness just left. Might be one and the same?
Sine Language had good deep cracks and steep jamming at 5.10+ or so.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
|
I miss the
forks...
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
|
Here's a scan of the Toula topo... so i'm guessing it's out there to the right of #5 - Sine Language (love that route!).
Jaybrah - come on over, we'll hit the Forks!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
|
Well, I went looking for the Forks but found these classic shots in the old slide box.
The unflappable Randy Mettler on the second pitch of Thin Slice at Granite Mountain. I listed this route as an area classic on Cmac's 100+ classics thread.
The Tim and Paul show on some fingery affair. Mount Eldon, Gloria's Rocks???
The ever fashionable and commercially sponsored Pablo Cruz on the FA of Let's Make a Deal on What's My Line Dome in the Stronghold!
|
|
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
|
SG- you're pretty damn good at changing the subject now that we're all fixated on "Shot"!!!
Left or right of Sine Language?
Who knew?!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 10, 2009 - 06:38pm PT
|
Which route is #5? I have photos of that one someplace.
The line of A Shot in the Dark shown above looks correct. It is a pretty obvious line, just no pro.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!