Wings of Steel

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Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jul 4, 2011 - 03:46pm PT

The nearest comparison to what's happening is the Dawn Wall. Robbins and Lauria repeated it in early 1971, soon after the first ascent. Robbins, at least, had made up his mind before even starting to climb - taking six cold chisels is pretty convincing proof of that. There had been no intervening ascents or attempts, and little time, so the route was in its original state. Robbins had the courage to change his mind part way up.

Another thing to recall is that standards, techniques and equipment have changed in the last 29 years. Even if it's all hooking, there have been changes in the types of hooks available, perhaps the metal, and things like taping down hooks. Did anyone do the latter in 1982?

The intervening 29 years, and some attempts or partial ascents, somewhat muddy the waters. Still, it will be interesting to hear what an apparently objective party finds and reports on.

Captain...or Skully

climber

or some such

Jul 4, 2011 - 05:44pm PT

There USED to be a stack of them on The Column.
Ahem. Hey, I dunno. Z-macs aren't good fallin' gear, but they pass Body weight just fine. Only a user, not a Placer. Or replacer. Or OVER replacer.
Nevermind.

goatboy smellz

climber

Nederland

Jul 4, 2011 - 07:48pm PT

unless it's being freed I don't see anything ground breaking here.
Aid climbing is stupid.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Jul 4, 2011 - 07:52pm PT

Aid climbing is stupid.

I allways used to feel that way too. Then I did an El Cap route.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Jul 4, 2011 - 11:24pm PT

^^^props^^^

dogtown

Trad climber

JackAssVille, Wyoming

Jul 4, 2011 - 11:41pm PT

Thirty years,I know them both No BullShit! They are GREAT climbers.

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Jul 4, 2011 - 11:48pm PT

So five separate threads and what seems like a million posts, and we finally get something objective and sensible.

This part kind of sums it all up:

I know that I will get slammed for this, but if you aren't in the right group of climbers, your route may get held to a double standard. That is all I am saying. What is OK for Bridwell is not OK for others.

And this applies not just to El cap. Or to Yosemite Valley. But to just about every climbing area everywhere. Anyone who has been active in new route development in any major area has seen it, or been involved in it.

The only difference in this case is that it happened on the Holy Alter in the Holy Tabernacle in the Holy Climbing State of California. Therefore it gets ten thousand posts of anger and hate, attack and defense.

In the meantime, climbing has long since moved on.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Jul 4, 2011 - 11:51pm PT

But to just about every climbing area everywhere.

It applies to just about everything, everywhere.

Mimi

climber

Jul 5, 2011 - 12:04am PT

Mark and David, you are missing the point, my friends. We all know that most of the time, just about everything is known about what occured on a climbing ascent.

Jim isn't on here spraying and then lying about what went on nor or any of the other guys who had bad practices. We know who we are. All us diehards ever asked for is an accurate hole count. That's it.

To add, Kevin Thaw and two others posted their attempt to do it in a day. They reached P5, well past THE CRUX, and rated it modern A3. His main complaint was having to deal with rusting cables on the now ancient batheads and crappy zmac rivets.

Bear in mind this is an all-time low watermark with respect to style. 39 days and a half a ton of equipment to climb a variation to keep it all in perspective. I don't think Ammon and Kait will feel much kinship with the FA. LOL! But if it's any consolation, they'll probably shave a month off the time posted by Bwana. And Skid.

I just hope Ammon doesn't get so bored as to call it a day (it's hot up there). Robbie Slater bailed from P7 due to such heat. The simple fact that it's unrepeated in its entirety has created far too much sensation around this climb. Because once it's done, it gets an asterisk. LOL

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Jul 5, 2011 - 12:11am PT

Let's get those shitters names out here! Yee haw!

dogtown

Trad climber

JackAssVille, Wyoming

Jul 5, 2011 - 12:13am PT

Do the History a bit, this is not known much but they are both good free climbers. What a bunch of bullshit this site is! Climbing is something you do for yourself , Not to empress ours.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Jul 5, 2011 - 12:14am PT

" All us diehards ever asked for is an accurate hole count. That's it."

Dumbass. Your husband already told us what it is.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/516588/Wings-of-Steel-XXVII-the-Downward-Spiral

Why don't you tell us what you really want, Mimi? Could there be a woman in the world more bitter than you? You are a Hater.

As for who the sh|tters are, if they simply apologized to Mark and Richard, it would probably go a long way.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Jul 5, 2011 - 12:18am PT

FACT BRA: 11 MIL ROPEZ MAKE FOR A NICE CLEAN WIPER.

Mimi

climber

Jul 5, 2011 - 12:20am PT

"Do the History a bit, this is not known much but they are both good free climbers. What a bunch of bullshit this site is! Climbing is something you do for yourself , Not to empress ours."

dogtown, you're wrong. Sorry. If you're buggering up the place to impress others, and not telling the truth, then climbers consider this unacceptable. If that's what you meant by empress ours.

Mark H, sorry to see that Pete has shown you the way. LOL!

Mimi

climber

Jul 5, 2011 - 12:31am PT

Pete, you are a goofball, the hole count has been a projection due to a total lack of a straightforward account from the Taskmaster and his Slave.

Since you consider yourself cock-of-the-rock up there, doesn't it frost your balls when a competent party rates something modern A3 and you can't even get up it with a TR? Seriously.

You can call me whatever, it's a just cause. Pete you are so lost.

Only one of the perps lost the mojo and apologized as far as I know. They shouldn't apologize.

I am Spartacus!!!!!!1111111111

dogtown

Trad climber

JackAssVille, Wyoming

Jul 5, 2011 - 12:33am PT

Hi, Pete what the f*#k mate?

NigelSSI

Trad climber

B.C.

Jul 5, 2011 - 12:37am PT

brb running to store for more popcorn.

http://www.gifsoup.com/view/80263/eddie-izzard-popcorn-gif-o.gif

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Jul 5, 2011 - 12:38am PT

Could there be a woman in the world more bitter than you? You are a Hater.

Pete, you're out of line here. I know Mimi. I hang out with her, share meals with her, party with her, and climb with her. I also disagree with her about some things. But she is no hater, and whatever else she may be, she sure isn't bitter.

For whatever reason, she doesn't like the way some guys did some climb. Big deal. You probably don't like the way some guys did some climb. Does that make you bitter? Or a hater?

Really, the whole thing seems silly. El Cap was an important climbing arena forty or fifty years ago, but it's relevance has faded. People tie on their ropes and head up onto it and that's great. You enjoy leisurely outings with all the comforts of home, others blitz it in a few hours, while still others go up and down their ropes and work on their redpoint skills. You all probably enjoy your own approach and you all have your personal quirks about its history. But as long as you're having a good time (and carrying your excreta over the top with you), then who gives a sh#t?