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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Thanks again clint! I'm impressed by your detailed route knowledge, and the photos to back it up. I really liked your photo of the DNB, showing the aid and free variations. It made me want to get on it again!
These east face shots show a few of the lines, but a clearer straight on shot taken earlier in the day would be needed to really show all the routes.
Keep up the good work!
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Great work Clint!
I do have some good shots of the East face and I'll post them up in a bit. I have been on all the routes except one on the far right side. We will get on that one soon too. I got that old poot sling off one of the routes last year. Its been hanging there for 5 years!
Urmas, I would be happy to meet you up there and go over your routes with ya when you come out if its helpful.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Sheesh, 50 routes on High Eagle alone?? Why would anyone go anywhere else? Does that include the Baby Blues Wall (Vernon) up top?
Clint, good pic of Delk's "East Crack". Heard it's kinda dirty though.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nate,
I left out Baby Blues Wall, (upper L SE face), because I figured the route names/history was known for those. (But now that I looked, I don't see any FA info for those climbs....) Here it is - didn't mean to neglect it! :-)
Baby Blues Wall (upper SE face of High Eagle, can approach from top)
354. un BB a 5.8/5.9 tr
355. un BB b 5.8/5.9 tr
356. Baby Blues Buttress Left 5.10 tr, slightly overhanging arete to BF anchor
357. Baby Blues Buttress Right 5.10+ tr, slightly overhanging arete to BF anchor
358. Bird Feed 5.10c, 5x
359. Song of the Birds 5.9, double ropes recommended
360. BB chimney 5.5
We apparently walked down past this when descending from Eine Kleine Nachtmusik last summer, but I didn't check out the climbs.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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I'm pretty sure the 2 5.10+'s were done by Dan.
Grahm, It would be great if you and Dan and I could meet up out there! I'm not sure I can arrange that, but I will email you to let you know when I'm coming out. I look forward to meeting you and exchanging info!
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Just let me know when your ready, I can meet up any time.
Jeremy - Changeling went down at 11c with gear and bolts it shares the 50 meter anchor with Shape Shifter 12b. Now stop hassling me or I'll slap u with my giant mits! ;-)
Heres my topo for the East Face. I have been calling it the "Dark Side Wall" because it is so dark with lichen and its in the shade most of the day. The wall to the left is Shape Shifter Wall and has 5 routes. I have all the beta on those. This wall needs FA, date info and maybe a consesus on grades.
The Dark Side - This large slab wall has dark colored rock that extends from the Shape Shifter Wall all the way right to the first routes encountered on High Eagle.
1. 5.8 - Gear - A three pitch route up the deep depression in the dome. Originally done in 5 pitches. FA Jack Delk, Guy McClure 7-75
2. 11c or d - 60m - 16 bolts plus gear to 1.5” for a 30 foot long seam section higher on the route. Shared closed cold shut anchor with 3. A great route.
3. 10d - 60m - 19 bolts, 9 to midway chain anchor 10b and 10 more to shared closed cold shut anchor with 2. A short crux above the 30m anchor leads to wandering seam climbing above. Bring many extendible draws to reduce rope drag from low on the route and especially for the upper section.
4. 11 c or d - 3 older bolts and gear. 3 pitches. Start by climbing a short 12 foot crack to a bolt. Follow around a flake system and then clip two more bolts up a slick slab. Run it out to a good ledge system below the big left facing dihedral. Follow the dihedral up on gear and then continue up to the summit.
5. 10b - 14 Bolts, open cold shuts - 30m - An excellent climb with fun holds. Start up a thin short dihedral past 2 bolts and then work your way up the face. Eventually you reach a good crack system. Easy run out 5.9 climbing leads to more bolts. Place gear up to 1.5 inches if you like. After following the crack / dihedral left climb back right across the face to the anchor. A tough move to the anchor makes most people grab the anchor to drop the rope in.
6. 11b - 10 Bolts, ring anchor - 30m - Start off a high ledge by either traversing in from way right or by climbing any of the short cracks below the ledge. Any easy but commiting step up leads to the first bolt. Follow a short left trending seam before climbing back right. Continue moving right across the dome on wild moves with slopey feet. Past the last bolt mantle off a ramp to reach the anchor.
7. 10a - 7 bolts, chain anchor - 25m - Start off a ledge and trend left until reaching a thin under cling flake that leads back hard right to the anchor.
8. 11a - 11 bolts, chain anchor - 30m - Shared first bolt and last 2 with 9. Climb up the thin flake and straight over to a difficult face move. Then move right across a delicate traverse and then up to the anchor.
9. 11a - 10 bolts, chain anchor - 30m - Move right off the first bolt and then up thin seams and a steep bulge. While the holds are clean the lower section off the route could use a good wire brushing to remove lichen. A bit spicier lead than 8.
10. 10c? Bolts Climb up the steep bulges. Haven't climbed yet.
11. Spencer guide shows route up the right shoulder of the dome.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Very nice, Grahm! Your guide is gonna be great! This should make it easy for Urmas and Dan to spot their routes.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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I didn't see Stanley anywhere on the FA list for high eagle...Didn't he do Turkey Vulture, or something right in that region?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sean Leary (aka Stanley) did some FAs at the Aerie, which is right next to High Eagle. Maybe that is what you are thinking of? And of course my FA list is quite incomplete. I'm sure Grahm's is better. Hopefully Dan and Urmas will fill in the blanks on their routes, too (using Grahm's photo overlay on the previous page).
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Clints topo shows Sean Learys 12d on High Eagle as Turkey Vulture. Turkey Vulture is actually one of my lines and its just to its right. Don't remember getting a name from Sean on his route. He also did an optional approach pitch to his route just left of Voyage to Antiquity. I think thats all of his routes on High Eagle.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Yeah Grahm, I was belaying Sean on his route right next to turkey vulture, at my friend Brian's bachelor party. You were climbing right next to us. I just didn't see it on the topo, and based on the topography, figured it was turkey vulture.
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Slater
climber
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Way to go "big mitts!"
They made me do it...
Too bad they were lame and used old stock footage (9 year old pictures!?? WTF and recycled! from May 2000 issue of Climbing no less) instead of the rad shots we got during the cover shoot. I have to say, I lost a little more respect for the rag. Not sure what they were thinking and it makes me question Duane's eye.
In fact, Grahm, post up the horizontal shot of you on Shangri La.
I would if I could figure out how. Something something... Img blah blah blah[ ] ?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Dave - My email is didgeridoings@aol.com Please send me any info you would like to share. We have been looking at those cracks and wondered if they had been done yet. I can get your pin back to you if you want it. There also was a small stopper just above it. I also puller some mank stoppers and a hex out of the lichen covered dihedral crack to the right. I assumed Crocodile Hunter was never freed past the roof. Was I correct? Did you have a working name?
I can send you a topo of Crocodile for referencing where your other routes are once I get your email.
Tom - You got some amazing shots and its a shame they didn't publish them.
Rather than send you privately how to post pics I'll do it here in case someone else wants to know.
Go to www.photobucket.com and create a free account. Other free image photo sites are similar like flikr. From your account choose upload and find the image on your computer. It will resize it for you for the internet. After its uploaded put your mouse over the image and a bunch of options will show. Copy the "img" code into your text on the forum and bam! you've got pics!
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Slater
climber
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This never translates successfully on a Mac.
When I put my mouse over a picture nothing happens.
And I spend all my time uploading onto my own website, I don't want an additional site to spend time on.
Shouldn't I be able to use my own site addresses? Email me... told you I had issues.
Thanks Mitts!
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Slater
climber
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Did it work?
Right click for a Mac user = hold down the "control" key while depressing the mouse, then "copy image address"
then do what Grahm said.
This pic is pre-photoshop adjustments. Would probably darken it a tad.
Grahm on Shangri La, Shuteye Ridge. (above and below)
and one from Hobbit Dome... Majestic Arch-(below)
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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I love seeing pics of Shangri La (the wall and the route). It's such a colorful expanse of stone and the route is one of my favorite FA's of all time.
Thanks for posting.
And in case you ever had any doubt, magazine editors publish and print whatever they feel like printing...including replacing feature pieces with stock shots they might already have.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Where is Shuteye ridge?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Grahm
> Clints topo shows Sean Learys 12d on High Eagle as Turkey Vulture. Turkey Vulture is actually one of my lines and its just to its right.
Fixed now - thanks for the correction. Sorry about my confusion.
Jay,
Shuteye Ridge is east of Oakhurst, and NE of Bass Lake.
West of Mammoth Pool and West of Minarets Road.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Hey Crazyhorse and Grahm -
You guys get up into Shuteye this weekend? Matt, did you make it out to something "long and easy"? ;)
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