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tcoats
Trad climber
Utah
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Actually Paul, here’s the history of the Ultimate Dihedral:
Jim Haisley and I put in the baby angles on the mossy traverse and climbed the first pitch not too long after we stole the Ultimate Finger Crack from you. Back in those days we considered it an uncompleted climb if you didn’t go to the top, so we came back with Stan Mish and added 2 more pitches to the rim. I remember Stan leading a super sketchy pitch with bad pro and worse rock. It didn’t seem to faze him in the least. I’m sure those pitched have never been repeated.
We didn’t name it the Ultimate Dihedral either; John Madsen and Dow Davis called it that after finding it later that summer. I’m can’t remember what its real name is, probably Dyno Honers from Outerspace.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Why there's Tim....
Ya know, now I remember you and haze climbing that stuff.
Not much ever fazed Mr. Mish. However, he could certainly phase others.
Sure you didn't call it Dyno Whores from Innerspace ?
Oh yeah, I'm starting to think I might finally forgive you if you'd ever show up to any of the fall outings.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Tim- Did you belay me on Shot In The Dark on the Sine Wall at the Forks?
I recall a nasty, RP protected 5.10+ R/X route in the tightest of columns.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Some more route info fishing.....
At one of the banquets early on, a bunch of us went climbing in Sedona. Herb North and I picked out a striking offwidth route and Fig and Dave Baker started up a line to the left and got stopped. I went over and finished that one too. The right one was named True Grit, if I recall, and I can't remember the left one.
DB and Fig didn't make very many gatherings so the timeframe is pretty narrow. I can't even recall the area location!?!
Another vagary...Larry, what did that one drilled angle route near the Mace finally get named. You were reading a book about the Hell's Angels at the time so I proposed Kickstart Spire?!?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Tower of Boodle was the formation ?
Dreams Come True was the Climb ?
I believe you led 1 pitch, Herb led another and Dave, Fig and I took a rope to the top.
True Grit was the climb on the next formation East
All behind Dr. Rubo's
All remembrances are sketchy...
I believe Toula's guide has True Grit and Dreams come True reversed.
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Funny that you asked about that- I just finished scanning some of these. Below- you are correct that Toula has them reversed: True Grit climbs the main corner a ways, then swings boldly around the arete and into the bottomless dihedral to the left.
[img]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_3K2U0FRaarU/SgDVlWGoJ0I/AAAAAAAABUU/8l-UOAKKZa8/s800/Sedona%20Dreams%20Come%20True.jpg
[/img]
And I like the name Kickstart Spire (summit of Dodger below)- it's boringly named the Coats-Grossman route in the guide. Note the chunk missing from my hammer handle- I believe you blew it up drilling the rappel bolts in your typical three blows!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Who are we fightin', who are we fightin???
Memorable line from that biker insider tell all, if I recall correctly? Right about the time that the author gets his ass kicked to end the study! LOL
My old favorite offwidthing football jersey after a bout of right side in! And Contacts!
How large was the summit of Kickstart? I remember a fairly slender formation?!?
Dreams Come True was really good as I recall. All nasty looking from below and full of good holds once you suck it up and go! That route should have seen a few repeats by now.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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How's this for a topout??!!
And there are enough stinky dudes represented in this thread.
Hows about a chick cranking B1 and smelling good doing it??!!
Thanks again SG,PD,Coats- you guys have provided a sh!tload of inspiration, past and present.
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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Is that top-out on "The Mother of All Boulderproblems"?
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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A lot of AZ climbing is stinky dude type stuff. I remember things improving in Flag when the Pit got developed.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Riotch- not M.O.A.B. Twister.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath- lots of stinky chick type stuff too!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 10, 2009 - 10:42am PT
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Well, I chatted with Jim Haisley recently and he was the mystery belayer on A Shot in the Dark on the Sine wall. His recollections about the route matched mine. Notning but a few RPs and some thin, hard face climbing on a flat portion of the wall. Jim recalls 5.11ish difficulty. Left side of the Sine Wall if I recall correctly and it likely hasn't been lead again.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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May 10, 2009 - 10:47am PT
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steve, how many routes have you done that haven't seen a second?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 10, 2009 - 11:44am PT
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Not very many Murry since I usually came back for a repeat myself unless the climbing was just horrid!
Topo of the Sine Wall anyone? Is A Shot anywhere on it?
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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May 10, 2009 - 11:57am PT
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steve- that's cheating!hahaha we know you can send em' it's when others are not willing to venture up that truely makes a statment!! ( not that your trying to prove anything- just your inherantly bold style!!)cheers! edit- cool got to be the 420 post!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 10, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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No mention of A Shot In The Dark on any topo I have. Bloom is working on a new book for that area, so now's a good time to identify it and get it in there.
Where's it located?
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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May 10, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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gregory-
that would be the sine wall-
also helps if you change the image name.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 10, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
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Yup... just curious where the Shot in the Dark route is located.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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Just checked - it's not in our sheets...
Edit: We have Sine language: Broken face crack to triangle flake
Who did you do that one with, Steve?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 10, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
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It goes up the flat area left of center. Post a current topo and if there is a blank space in that area , that's it.
I did a route called Sine Language in there that takes the jagged column bottom on the right side. I think A Shot goes up the flatness just left. Might be one and the same?
Sine Language had good deep cracks and steep jamming at 5.10+ or so.
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