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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 30, 2018 - 04:34am PT
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Regarding Werner's comments on the origin of YOSAR, Wayne Merry posted the concise history here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2345312&msg=2506152#msg2506152
If Wayne's dates are correct (I think they are) the first YOSAR site was in 1970 in the campground under Glacier Point Apron near the garbage dump, which is where bears ate. Bev Johnson was chomped on the shoulder while sleeping in her pup tent that Spring.
I don't think that the 1970s climbing boom would have happened if it were not for YOSAR and Jim. Jim was very inclusive and as the head of the YOSAR site, he offered a welcoming place to stay for visiting climbers; it created a physically close community of regulars and visitors that fostered great climbing. I have written about this time here http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=654801&msg=654801#msg654801
and here
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1036610&msg=1036610#msg1036610.
I don't think that I would use the term "founder" to describe Jim's role in YOSAR, but I don't have a good alternative. There were rangers who could manage the worst of the climbers and there were climbers who could manage the worst of the rangers. As Werner notes, Pete Thompson was an integral part of managing those relationships. It also helped that all of the rangers were respectful of the huge talent of the climbers on display on big rescues. We were fast, safe, organized and easy to deal with (at least during rescues). Then is was back to snarling at each other.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 30, 2018 - 07:50am PT
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we changed it, though it is hard to characterize Jim's contribution in a brief clause... maybe it still doesn't quite work.
my fault for not trying to track down the details and just repeating stuff I'd heard, and forgetting about Wayne's post
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 30, 2018 - 07:52am PT
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Ed, when's that new guide comin out???
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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May 30, 2018 - 08:20am PT
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Yes, Lynne, I'm holding a bunch of pix, not for wanting to post them. I've been busy creating a "defensible space" from potential wildfires at our new house while burning of potential fuels is still permitted. And there is also my tour biz that requires my time... Soon tho... Patience please...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 30, 2018 - 09:21am PT
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Ed, when's that new guide comin out???
I don't know, but it is...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 30, 2018 - 10:09am PT
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Such a physicist. Always happy with the certainty of probabilities.
The probability I will order a copy is 1, minus unforeseen difficulties, such as I died of old age waiting. Buzz
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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May 30, 2018 - 10:18am PT
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Ed, may I borrow your answer regarding your book? :) :)
I will wait patiently, Boodawg. :)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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May 30, 2018 - 10:33am PT
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The new guidebook is being kept in a box with Schrodinger's cat.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Jun 13, 2018 - 08:22pm PT
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OK, Lynne! Thank you for your patience...
Some of these people's names whose pics I took I don't know, so please chime in so I can label them correctly. Thank you all!
More to come soon, I promise.
Good one, Roger!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jun 13, 2018 - 08:38pm PT
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Thanks CathC and BooDawg
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Stimbo
Trad climber
Crowley Lake
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Jun 13, 2018 - 10:30pm PT
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Hey BooDawg,
This is Rick Linkert
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jun 13, 2018 - 10:41pm PT
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I like the photo of Susan Seagoat. She is just as beautiful as I pictured her from her posts.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Jun 15, 2018 - 03:04pm PT
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Thank you, Stimbo!
My apologies that these are coming in small groups, but I'm squeezing them in between tours, house-building and gardening. Look for future postings on the "building" and "gardening" threads...
Again, everyone's help with identities would be appreciated by all...
More to come...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 15, 2018 - 04:17pm PT
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BooDawg, L-R, Erret Allen & Bill Russell:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 15, 2018 - 05:38pm PT
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Here's a raft of photos from Don Harder/Mastadon, people listed L-R:
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jun 15, 2018 - 06:32pm PT
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Super great pics, BooDawg and Mastadon! Thanks for your contributions.
Does anyone have a picture of Will Oxx. Met him at the StoneMasters gathering in Josh spring of 2008. He was cool to give me a DVD of his time in Baffin. My grandkids have loved it. I love it because it encourages them to adventure. Bummed I didn't met Will or Erret A. Erret wrote a piece for our forthcoming book Tuolumne Climber.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jun 15, 2018 - 06:58pm PT
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wonderful portrait of jim, alongside the artist, his son layton
who is about to be gifted a shirt from dave diegelman
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Jun 15, 2018 - 07:13pm PT
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 15, 2018 - 11:25pm PT
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The little engine that could.....
......and did.
Inspiring.
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Jun 16, 2018 - 12:34am PT
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Great pics. TFPU
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