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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 12, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
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Wow, Chris didn't have to post that up, y'know?
Thanks for being accountable, Chris. We're rooting for you. Please keep us apprised, and we'll see you in the spring, eh?
And remember your damn glasses this time, will ya?! Sheesh.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jan 12, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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Hopefully the weather is good and you get some climbing in. Good luck man.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jan 12, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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have Werner testify on your behalf...hehe
Yeah man, you should pay him, too, as an expert witness.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 12, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
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Good luck with the court thing Chris.
Listen to this part carefully though. Don't be worried, it's gonna be fine. You'll get through it and life will be awesome again afterwards once you are past this speed bump in life's path. OK? Don't fear it, it's gonna be fine buddy. I'm not joking.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Jan 13, 2013 - 01:24am PT
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I kinda wish I had "forgotten my glasses" for that particular trip as well, Pete. Haha. But in my own defense at least I was still on the Bridge the next morning eh?
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 13, 2013 - 01:52am PT
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Just offer to take the Judge rappelling before he makes any judgement ......
:-)
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Jan 13, 2013 - 02:06am PT
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LOL Werner. Nice one.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Jan 13, 2013 - 03:01am PT
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I don't know where I was when this thread first hit but from the OP I got shivers up my spine.
Rappelling has NEVER been a fun activity for me. I get cold sweats when I put all my faith into the anchor and start going down. Just too many places to make a mistake.
Lost one friend that way in the U-Notch many a year ago...
I suppose I would tell people if you really want to rap EC try climbing it first. Get used to the exposure and the lay of the land. 3,000 feet of steep granite ain't the gym!
Otherwise, excellent thread with all the requisit name-calling, innuendo, excitement, corrections, re-statements, bravado, pics, and popcorn-worrthy commentary.
The best part? Russ' audio file!
Rap down there, slap his ass around for being such a dumbarse...* Perfection!
*I know he doesn't say "dumbarse" but ST does not allow profanity...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 13, 2013 - 07:21am PT
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The Vigilante Squad, now why didn't we think of that before?
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prickle
Gym climber
globe,az
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Jan 13, 2013 - 08:47am PT
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why not just go and climb some shorter stuff?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 13, 2013 - 08:53am PT
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Travis, seeing you on the bridge next day was like seeing an apparition. I literally could knott believe my eyes.
After I got through my amazement, I was sure glad to see you there, and not stuck in the hospital. How are you these days? What is the prognosis?
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:57am PT
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what happened to the dude that was with chris the guy dangling in space below the great roof?
Exactly, just blame it on him.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
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Chris/Googly - This story may or may not help with your current situation re: court case.
Sometime in the 90s I was on 120 near Porcupine Flat in a line of about 15 cars behind a slow moving RV. At every opportunity 1 or 2 cars would pass the RV, which would not pull over. Eventually I was the second car behind the RV (my Toyota pickup), behind an old pickup truck.
At the start of the next big passing lane I waited a few secs for the pickup to start to pass the RV and he didn't move. Thinking that he just wanted to go slowly, I accelerated and moved into the passing lane. Just as I was almost at the tailend of the pickup truck, he moved started to move right into me in the passing lane. I swerved to avoid hitting him, which then caused my truck to fishtail and go out of control. We left the road to the left and thankfully not over a cliff but into a very large tree. The truck was totalled and me and my passenger were transported by ambulance to the Valley clinic.
While we were waiting for the ambulance to show up the park police questioned me, my passenger and several eye witnesses about the accident.
A few weeks later, to my amazement, I received a citation in the mail. Charge: failure to pass safely.
My lawyer (who I had hired because my car company was not behaving) told me that I absolute had to go in person to the Valley courthouse. He advised me to show up before court started for the day and to ask to speak to the federal prosecutor about my side of the story, and to ask if they would be willing to not pursue the charge (I can't remember what the legal term was). I guess it was a good enough sob story on my part, so when my case was called he went before the judge and asked the the case be dropped. Which it was. I never said a word to the judge.
Maybe something like this would work for you?
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Googlymoogly
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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I appreciate all of the advice. According to the notice I got in the mail I have to let them know ahead of time if I want to contest it. If I move the location I waive my right to plead not guilty. It sounds like my best bet is to not fight it and probably keep the location in the valley. I will be sure to talk to the prosecutor before hand.
Unfortunately the day I am supposed to be at the courthouse is a day I have class so I am going to see if I can move it to before winter break is over.
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Crackslayer
Trad climber
Eldo
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Jan 14, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
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What was that saying that James came up with?? I think it was:
El capitan
El rapitan
El napitan
And there was a drawing to go along with it. Cracked me up!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
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Trials are usually held in the location where the alleged offence occurred. Usually you can only get a change of venue if you can demonstrate some prejudice that prevents you getting a fair trial at the location, or if you agree to plea guilty, and the only issue is the appropriate sentence.
For better or worse, a judge in Yosemite, even if brought in by videoconference from Fresno, should know a bit more about the context than judge from the flatlands.
Read the notice you received carefully, and if you're not sure if you understand, ask someone else to look at it. If you're going to ask that the trial date be changed, be aware that court in Yosemite doesn't sit every day. So:
 Notify them asap, in writing, by registered mail, that you plan to contest the charge.
Also notify them that the proposed date doesn't work for you, and provide evidence (e.g. copies of documents) to show why. (Inconvenience isn't enough.)
Tell them what dates you would be available, and of course mention the distance/cost factor.
If all else fails, ask to go before Judge Werner, the only law north of the Merced.
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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Your partner is borderline retarded as far as I can pull from the gist of this without reading every post- rapping into space and no idea what to do with no injury to excuse. I've taught people to jug fixed lines on their first ever day of climbing probably 2 or 3 dozen times over the years working on various ropes courses/climbing gyms/guiding/rescue training etc. I've done half dome 3 times with people as their first ever jugging experience. They all picked up no problem- one RNWF ascent was even sub 8 hours with a first time jugger granted he could lead 5.12 trad. How do you not know how to go back up a rope and get on El Cap? Didn't you guys at least ascend lines up the east ledges before starting on your way to the top? If I was rapping a huge route the first defense if something went wrong- rapping past an anchor/rope distance didn't quite make it etc.. would be to ascend the rope and try something else.
Actually when I first started climbing in Yose I climbed with a guy once a very strong climber that was permanently handicapped from a massive pendulum lead fall into a corner and a permanent head injury. He could barely walk to the base of climbs without falling many times or walk around in camp without stumbles, but he still loved climbing. You know what he did when we got him on 5.8 sections he couldn't climb he got out his ascenders and jugged the rope!
This shouldn't have ever happened outside of a serious injury/rock fall cut ropes/destroyed gear etc unless you guys:
1. Rapped into an anchor in no mans land that left you stranded on a blank wall with no other anchors or cracks in site and already committed to pulling the rope. Thus you would be in a position unable to lead back up or continue down without bolting anchors. Too difficult or extremely dangerous to lead back up with minimal pro etc.
2. If one of the rap route anchors was severely damaged or missing from rock fall etc on the correct route again leaving you stranded without a bolt kit such as some of the anchors on middle cathedral rock in recent years.
3. You had a terrible rope stuck worst case scenario situation happen on a blank rap route. This happened to us once on the Royal Arches rap route years ago when our rope stuck in the most peculiar way in a crack way above. We drew straws with my partner eventually leading a 5.10 unprotected death slab pitch with prusiks on the stuck rope- back up the rap route! Hopefully the rope that was stuck firm in a bottle neck above after both pulling and bouncing our hardest on it would have held a slip.
Small chance of one of these 3 scenarios happening to most people in everyday rapping but you can get totally screwed on a blank rap route a few times in your climbing career even if you do everything right. All good reasons most of us do not enjoy rapping or bailing a big route until it is necessary. At least then you are familiar with the route from climbing up and and better prepared to anticipate any rope sticks/weird anchors etc on the way down. This considered I would bring both a bolt kit and an extra rope in addition to a full kit of wall gear in a small haulbag just to cover my ass if my objective was rapping El Cap.
Rapping traversing and overhanging pitches with wall gear is hard enough with an experienced partner and not high on the fun list in my memories. Just climb it! Wouldn't it have been better to bail from Dolt tower on a failed attempt?
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Googlymoogly
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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Richard and I both get a settlement option. It is a $1000 fine (5% of rescue costs) plus a 12 month probation and it stays off the record. Richard took it. I have the option to take it or fight the violation.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Thats one way to "pay your dues".
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