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Ben Rumsen
Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
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Sep 16, 2005 - 04:14pm PT
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North Dome in Kings Canyon is way cool fun - let me know where your new route goes!! And nice route in the Bugs bringmedeath - and congratulations!!!
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Wrathchild
Big Wall climber
Lee NH
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Sep 16, 2005 - 04:40pm PT
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We were really good friends, and the sponsor thing got in the way of that. We partied hard, and had great times together. I didn't mean it as a slam, if that's what you're thinking. I'm not trying to bum you, I'm a fan of the attitude you show.
Next time in the Bugs, you should check out the back side of the Howsers, it's sick!
I x'ed his name, because he feeds his family with sponsor $$$ and I don't want to jeopardize that.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2005 - 04:53pm PT
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I can see at his level of support you are forced to climb with other people that have similer support. BOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
The Howsers look rad, there look to be really good corners and really natural lines there. I think that was Alik's first plan to go back there but the South Face had very little on it and was super close. If I go back I want to go and try All Along the Watchtower... need to get back in shape to crank hard pitches that far into a climb. Also there was several types of bees up there. Even bumble bees! I can't remember which ones the nest was... I just sorta freaked out. Bringmedeath by bees... no thanks!!!!
edit: We only placed 7 anchor bolts. One anchor is a single bolt with a expando beak, there is runout freeclimbing above.
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Wrathchild
Big Wall climber
Lee NH
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Sep 16, 2005 - 05:24pm PT
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You know, Bee keepers use smoke to calm the bees down, works for me too...
Don't think I'm busting on you, I think we'd get along really well. I just think sponsors are the biggest thing wrong with the whole sport, and wanted to voice that opinion.
FA's are funkin Rad, so don't let any web BS slingers harsh your buzz.
A partner once said to me "we should cherish these times, we won't have the time to do this when we are older." I thought he was nuts, I'd be doing that all my life. WEEELLLLL, things kind of didn't work out as planned. Now I'm in NH, 3000 miles from the valley, and I'm lucky to get an afternoon to myself. And I married a climber.
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Sep 16, 2005 - 05:56pm PT
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For what it's worth, Lambone's questions make this a more interesting thread than it would be if it was just a long list of "Cool pics bra!"
Anyway, nice send.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Sep 16, 2005 - 06:02pm PT
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Disagree David.
I thought mr. death did a good job. He was honest about the holes, expressed disappointment about bolting past bees.
A decision was made, halfway up a climb, a ways from the road, at altitude, in challenging conditions on a capsule style FA.
Lambone points to that new route next to Yosemite falls as a shining example. And it is! But it's less than half a mile from a bus stop, and close to a cafeteria and bar! Hard to compare the two.
I enjoyed the TR, pics always make them more interesting. The adventure aspect is more important to me than quibbles over bolt counts. Sounds like a hell of an adventure up there!
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Sep 16, 2005 - 06:17pm PT
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He did a great job but there's nothing wrong with people asking pointed questions and Lambone's questions whether they were valid or not(not for me to decide) actually prompted Mr.Death to tell us a bit more about his cool route that he had left out of the first few paragraphs. That's all I meant.
For example, how else would we have know that one of them was climbing in rubber unless one thought to ask?
Can I ask a question?
Just out of curiosity. How many lead lines do you bring on a trip like that? Looks like the Stratos was holding up well. Did one rope do the job?
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2005 - 06:44pm PT
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Ya the rope was all good the whole climb, then it got stuck on the last rappel. Long story but now rope is like 55-60m NOOOOOOOOO! But we had another lead line that we used as a lower out line. Just in case...
One thing about at least a Stratos, when it freezes or starts to, the gri-gri is a major pain in the ass to use!
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Wrathchild
Big Wall climber
Lee NH
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Sep 16, 2005 - 07:41pm PT
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According to the topo, p1 is 70 meters? If that is mandatory, you should list it on the gear list.
The Kain hut is way bitchin', eh.
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alik
Big Wall climber
edmonton
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Sep 16, 2005 - 08:32pm PT
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The first pitch is 70M, but the beginning and end are easy climbing so with some trickery you could do it with a 60, so the 70 isn't really mandatory. The second picture in the original post is the beginning of the first pitch to give you an idea. The second could simul-climb the first few moves in a pinch.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 18, 2005 - 03:34am PT
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thanks David.
I know some loud and rude internet personas that post on other climbing sites who would piss all over this thread if they knew even one bolt had been drilled for the route. of course they are old fat armchair mountainieers...
I was kinda flipping BMD sh#t for the hell of it, not trying to say the bolting was wrong or that i could have done any better. But this is climbing, and after all the high fives and props there is nothing wrong with saying whats with all the bolts and why didn't you free those splitter cracks in the photo? I'm sure Jake is tough enough to take it in stride.
::EDIT::
You know what, f*#k that. now people are calling me out for back peadaling like a wimp. so fine, enough passive agression. I think bolts in the mountains are lame. and don't have much respect for climbers who go up in the mountains with bags of bolts intent on concouring a peak, regardless of how hard their routes are.
Sure I am not doing burly bolted FA's like BMD, so what. When I go to places like the Bugs I carry a light trad rack and enjoy crusing moderate and natural crack systems.
While BMDs pics are pretty and make me jones for the mountains big time, I think the route and how he postures it as being as a hard as or harder len blablahblah on El Cap is ghay. So f*#k off.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 18, 2005 - 11:29pm PT
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BMD, great trip report and a wonderful effort. The Bugs are a great place to climb, and the remoteness ratchets up the commitment factor pretty high.
And I hope your toes forgive you soon.
Props to you and Alik for the FA!
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Sep 19, 2005 - 12:23am PT
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Great Stuff!!! Love the route name as well...Pixies!!
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 19, 2005 - 01:49am PT
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nice pics jake -- congrats on the FA ..
how bad is the frostbite? -- post pictures ..
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2005 - 03:16am PT
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"I think bolts in the mountains are lame. "
Wow, that calls a lot of peoples routes lame! I guess Ammon's big route on Keeler is gay and lame. Most of the routes in Trango area are lame, Patagonia flat out lame. You know what lambome, you really don't sound like one bit of a wall climber. What are you, blowing Twight or something?
You are talking sh#t about something you know nothing about, you haven't climbed an aid wall in mountains, you don't climb hard aid. Yet you can tell me that you seem to know how hard my climb is? I call bullshit! El Cap is a 30 minute hike from the road! A rescue is a scream away, the weather in summer is never a problem. Sure the climbing is hard on some of the routes, I only compared the difficulty to give people a comparison of what the aid was like. But of course I should have left that to experts like yourself who have climbing really hard El Cap walls and know what it's all about! Right, please tell me you agree.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 19, 2005 - 03:34am PT
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LOL
funny stuff
no I am not nearly as much of a hard man as you. drill on...
why do you give a sh#t what I think Jake?
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2005 - 03:42am PT
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For the most part I don't... I just have nothing better to do with my time right now. Well I guess I could go to bed but... this is more entertaining.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Sep 19, 2005 - 02:26pm PT
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"Wow, that calls a lot of peoples routes lame! I guess Ammon's big route on Keeler is gay and lame."
What? How did I get dragged into this? Haa haa haa... I installed one bolt in between 13 pitches of climbing (23 total), some natural belays, one and two bolt belays. Most of it goes free with only a couple of pitches of dicey aid.
Anyway, I think Jake and Alik did a great job, from what I can see from the topo. Awesome pics!!! That is too bad about drilling a bolt ladder because of bees, though. No way to get around them?
Keep up the good climbing Jake and heal well bro.
Cheers-
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
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Sep 19, 2005 - 02:53pm PT
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Wow, this thread has the elements of an all-time ST classic! A depiction of what sounds like a bad-ass FA,
including some (apparently) awesome photos––and a spicy flame-war for good measure.
What could be better than this?
I am really looking forward to finally seeing the pics; hopefully soon.
(I can't bring myself to wait the 13-15 minutes for the pics to download)
Time to get a laptop!
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