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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Walt never mentioned a .12 chimbly after he did SOH.....
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Elcapinyoazz!
When I asked Dave how hard the chimney's were, that gleaming smile he always had when he was 'putting you on' lit up his face and he said "5.10".
That's what Sylvester called them and Dave wasn't about to differ. But it was apparent from his description, that they were HARD.
He said that he spent the whole day inching his way up those two pitches.
There was an obvious tone in the 'Valley to down play Dave's achievement regarding the OW pitches.
One of the 'Valley elite' at the time, a friend of mine, once mentioned that Dave was held in high regard as an OW climber. It was obvious that it wasn't something to be discussed/admitted openly.
I just want to add, that Dave got some of his 'bad rep' doing things that are common place today. Like free soloing the 'Smokestacks' on the Wheeler Crest, just north of Bishop. That was about 1975. Rated 5.9 then, upgraded to 5.10 by today's standards. And only after finding no one to accompany him, which was a common dilemma of his.
In other words he did it reluctantly. But climbing was his total focus, and climbing won out in that debate.
The dude wasn't understood!
I believe Dave's OW leads on SOH should go down in the 'hallowed annals' of 'Valley Lore'. But of course it would have to first pass the desk of the 'Bhagwan'(with all due respect). And I seriously doubt if that shall happen anytime soon.
Peace.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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TripL7:
Just a few things off the top of my head. There's a pic or two in the Zak/Huber Yosemite picture book of Huber climbing the Kierkegaard.
Also, the free route El Corazon links up parts of SOH with Albatross and another route or two. Here's the Huber topo of El Corazon, courtesy of Clint's site, with their ratings for the SOH pitches:
EDIT: topo was wide, blowing out the sidewalls. Removed and added link instead. http://tiny.cc/arzYG
Credit: Clint Cummins.
Might have to go take a look for myself in May.
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WBraun
climber
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The Kierkegaard Chimney.
That thing is the scariest ass pitch I've ever looked at. I was so scared I almost fainted. We bivied at the base of this thing and I almost couldn't eat that night thinking I had to lead this beast.
I only had one piece to protect it to boot. I was totally fuking terrified and Shipley was laughing at me as I turned white with fear.
Turned out it was no big deal. It was all in my head. The thing is an illusion up there being so overhanging looking from below.
Man .... I never want to feel like again ....
Photo borrowed & credit from Levy's thread.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Good golly. Werner gone snail eyed? Maybe I don't wanna go up there, after all.
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Awesome Werner, I had heard Walt had done SOH, for some reason I thought he had soloed it.
Well, thanks for posting.
What did Walt think of the of the Nietzsche Chimney. I suspect he led that pitch.
Did you guy's have a few cams?
It was Dave's first Cap route, he had spent a couple of years climbing in the Alp's, and had done some major mixed Alpine routes there.
He showed up in the Valley Summer '74' and climbed some with Alex McIntyre, (birds of a feather). They had some big aspirations, but just ended up climbing the Chouinard/Herbert, and than bailed due to heat.
Maurice, couldn't find anyone to climb with. He climbed in a beat up old pair of 'Super Guide' mountain boots. I remember Dave approaching me and asking if I would consider including him. I told him to forget it.
We were putting together a rack, and were coming up short. Maurice had a fairly good wall rack, he had done the 'Trollten Wall' in Norway, first or second ascent. Maurice insisted that he could lead any 5.9 in the Valley in his mountain boots (it was all he had ever climbed in). And the only way were going to borrow any of his gear was if we took him with us on SOH.
So Maurice's rack looked more and more tantalising as days went buy and we decided on a test. We took him down to Moby Dick and a couple other classics to see if Maurice could lead them in his mountain boots. To our surprise he had no difficulty whatsoever.
Dave sold me on the SOH in Mammoth the prior winter. We did 'The Gold Wall' for a warm-up. The aid variation of the old Kor route. 'Silent Line' hadn't gone yet...remember looking at it and thinking "why didn't they go over there".
Well, I will for ever regret not doing SOH with Dave, it would have been a good introduction to the 'Big Stone'.
Peace Werner, John.
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fosburg
climber
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The Kierkegaard chimney is way proud and aptly named, the Nietzsche being relatively light. Coz lead it in about 20 min. (Left Side In!) when we were up there.
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Elcapinyoazz!
Thanks for the links man. I can tell I am not gonna get much sleep tonight.
If you climb SOH this Spring you will have to change your handle to 'Elcapinyobadazz'!
Be sure and let us know a little in advance, would like to be there cheering you on.
Thanks Again, John.
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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fosberg!
Kevin, did you and Coz carry any cams?
Just curious if you needed them or not.
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fosburg
climber
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Yes, a few big cams are handy on that route.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Hey Will, I'm in!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Cool, Jay. We can warm up on that and then go send that missing orange wedge thing up there left of the Nose dihedrals.
That photo above, actually looks very similar style to (but longer than) the action on One Armed Giant.
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prunes
climber
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I know alot of Dave Stutzman from what my friend Tommy Duechler has told me.Together they had climbed a new route on Burkett,Breithorn Northface,Polar circus and a attempt on the Cassin route on Jiraschanca.On the return trip from South America they boarded the plane with a large bag of cocoa leaves and then realized they are illegal and eat them all before landing.Have only hear good things about Stutzman.
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WBraun
climber
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TripL7 -- "What did Walt think of the of the Nietzsche Chimney."
I don't know?
We made a deal before we went up on that wall.
I said I"ll lead the whole upper dihedral above the heart roof, all the off-width & wide stuff. "I'll bring one big cam and a 6" aluminum bong and my free climbing shoes."
That way our rack is light and we will smoke the route .....
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Werner!
I had just assumed you were swinging leads.
fosburg pretty much answered the question.
Much gratitude towards you both.
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Crucial beta: prior to tie-in, place hands in beehive for ten minutes.
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