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zeta
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2010 - 11:42am PT
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awesome, you guys rock! i've now got quite the list of 5.8s to work on! (thanks Ed especially).
Rhyang, if it helps at all, the 5.8s I found tricky and backed off of this past year included: Nurdle, 2nd pitch of the Surprise, and Bongs Away Left. But the whole 5.8/5.9 rating in the valley can be so different (like I thought the 5.9 2nd pitch of Jam Crack and Superslide were pretty mellow), though I've decided to put off leading Braille Book for a bit. You'll definitely love the Swiss Arete and Conness.
I am definitely curious to try out the S. Face of North Dome someday...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 11, 2010 - 11:48am PT
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I owe karma a lead on the transition pitch from the slab to the face... love to go back and do S. Face N. Dome again... amazingly stout, quality route much longer than Crest Jewel....
Before you use that list, ask about your targeted climb here for some gentle beta... routes like Notably Knobular really should be done with extreme caution and foresight, it is an X lead on crumbly knobs... not recommended.
And some of those routes no longer exist....
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 11, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
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North Dome South Face is on a friend's list too. That would be a very long day and probably an epic, at least for a gumby like me. I can dream ..
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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May 11, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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Little John right is pretty damn fun!
nutcracker is pretty unbeatable too...
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 11, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
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There are also many newer "5.8's" but some might be a little burly (see Ed's comment). Anyhow, some of them can be found by looking at Clint's website.
Also bump for a GREAT post!
kev
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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May 11, 2010 - 07:12pm PT
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Ed, if Crest Jewel isn't long enough for you, then you need to include the direct start. ;-)
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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May 11, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
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I don't remember Selaginella being a climb where you needed to be more than a 5.8 leader, but I can understand the route finding part...
The wide bit on the first pitch is pretty friendly and one could always take a few larger cams.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 11, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
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There are also many newer "5.8's" but some might be a little burly (see Ed's comment)
Those are technically not 5.8's, they're 5.8b's. I got spit out of one, ya bastid!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 12, 2010 - 09:53am PT
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The wide bit on the first pitch is pretty friendly and one could always take a few larger cams.
I see the supertopo for that part says 10-12" .. I think I can manage arm bars, chicken wings and heel-toe when necessary. The steep #4-5 camalot cracks seem like they might be a problem for me.
At PG Sunnyvale in the 'icebox' area for example we have a "narrow" OW and a "wide" OW. I can manage the wide one (at least until halfway up the flaring part) with heel-toe and chicken wings but in the narrower one I'm still thrashing once it opens up to 4-5" size.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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May 12, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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It has been a little while since I have been on the route, but I sure don't remember any arm bars or chicken wings. I seem to recall either finding features inside the crack or reaching past wide spots and the wide sections is fairly short. Knowing how to use your feet on wide cracks helps. Not trying to sandbag anybody, but for a Yosemite wide section I still think this one is pretty friendly.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 12, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
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Cool, thanks !
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LB4USC
Trad climber
Long Beach
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May 13, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
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Bump
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 13, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
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I forgot about S. Face of North Dome. That's a great route.
I don't know about 5.7 vs 5.8 vs 5 fun, but there is a lot of nice climbing on the route.
The step around to change crack systems is weird and intimidating, but once you find the right way, it's not bad at all.
Funny, the time I climbed it was with Todd S, when he was drawing up the supertopo for the route.
I hope the topo is accurate- we simul climbed most of the route- ha! The inside scoop- the poop, if you will.
I'm glad someone brought this route up. I think I'd like to do it again.
We also did the fourth class descent of the west side of the Dome this is an excellent way to get down. It's sketchy and steep slab and if you do it right and don't die, it might even save three to four minutes extra that it would take to walk to the back of the dome and take the trail back down to Royal Arches.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 14, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
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Keep the thread alive!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 14, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
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Now that my leg is rehabilitated from my achilles rupture, I'm starting to tour a bunch of classics.
5.8 is a lot like 5.10...Should have a a, b, c and d, gradings. Some I'd solo anyday, others make me take seriously with gear.
Soloed that Alleged 5.7 in North Dome years ago onsight. Crapped my pants repeatedly! More like nutcracker than After Six for sure!
Peace
Karl
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 15, 2010 - 12:08am PT
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I seem to recall a place after the cross over where the crack runs out to get to a ledge. I was thinking of soloing I think when we did it. That part looked tough, also the step around part was tough to find the right way but easy. I was glad to plug a cam in for sure.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 15, 2010 - 10:32am PT
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My comparison rating for Yosemite vs. other main US climbing areas:
Big Walls A+
5.11 and above A
5.10 A
5.9 B
5.8 and below C
It's the nature of the rock, the lower grades tend to be slabby and not too interesting vs. other areas like the Gunks and Eldo.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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May 15, 2010 - 01:12pm PT
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My 2cents worth.
I agree with donini that many of the Valley 5.8s aren't such great routes. Mostly because they've got only short sections of 5.8 or they don't get you very high.
Arrowhead Arete and Selaginella are both excellent 5.8's
I like them both because they're a full day with plenty of long sections of 5.7-5.8 and maybe 5.8+
Arrowhead Arete is a truly spectacular climb: a 1500' approach, a true knife edge ridge, gendarmes and has a tricky descent so you're not down till you're down. Be sure to start early and to take headlamps. Exposure makes you pause in places.
Selaginella's got some tricky lead sections. Pro isn't always where you'd like it. And a strenuous, exposed, spectacular lieback finish.
Being able to lead 5.9 is definitely an asset.
The OW at the base of Selaginella can be bypassed with the steep hand crack to the right. Which might actually be a little harder.
Do them both in a weekend and you've earned a rest.
InMyHumbleOpinion.
Has anybody ever gone UP from the end of Arrowhead Arete?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 15, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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Tami talked about going to the rim from the top of Arrowhead Arete... and walking the Falls Trail to the floor.
donini has a point, which reveals itself everytime some asks me to name a few 5.8 and below climbs worth doing in the Valley, I have trouble doing it...
...but having climbed in the 'Gunks, I've got to say that many climbs there rated 5.8 would seem sandbagged for someone coming into that area with no experience. Because of the uniqueness of some 'Gunks climbing, i.e. overhangs.
I haven't pranced in Eldo, so I don't know, but I suspect the same would be true there.
There are many very good 5.8's and below in the Valley, but the density of those climbs is relatively low, making it difficult to go from one to the other easily... you have to work for those climbs, you don't have the luxury of their being located close together.
And you have the problem, as in other areas, that there are some distinctly Yosemite Valley characteristics that can be a problem for someone working up through those grades.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 15, 2010 - 03:49pm PT
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Well, with all the above said then I'm back to saying that I think the "South Face of North Dome" is one of the Valley Classics. Its right in line with Nutcracker and the Braille Book. Its 5 Star as far as I'm concerned. Its got everything you need to climb to call yourself a competent 5.8 leader, route finding, thin crack, face, lie back, offwidth, a great and beautiful setting, major exposure and you end up on top of a big dome, no rapping.......if you do it right. Every pitch is heads up and its only rated 5.7!!
We took the easy almost level hike on the trail from the Tioga Road to the top of North Dome with big packs and spent the night on top with all the luxuries and a grand view. Late at night it started getting really windy and blowing us around in our bivy sacks, making us almost think about tying in at one point! We stashed our big packs the next morning and took our smaller ones and headed down to the base. After finishing we re-packed and hiked out. A great weekend and one of the best multi-pitch (8 pitches) I've done.
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