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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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MisterE's guidebook isn't even out yet.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Woody is somewhere laughing his azz off at all this.
The original bolts on DC were placed by Wolfe for aid and he describes it in the first guide as a practice aid climb. Woody came back and did it free a few days after the FA.
Almost all the climbs mentioned are great ones if you do them at the right time in your career, overrated if you do them when they are beneath your level.
CC was great when I got to do it, but there were half as many bolts and we only had to race one party to the route.
Thought WPOD was great also, but then we did the splitter to the left of the dihedral for a first pitch and there were only two bolts on the face pitch with mandatory simulclimbing. (165' rope)
The East Face is a mountaineering exercise with a couple of good bonus rock pitches thrown in.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Has this become a Double Cross thread?
Anyways, I gotta agreed with some of the previously mentioned: Royal Arches (the most interesting thing about it was the Rotten Log, which is long gone).
East Face of Whitney (big face, some fun exposure but too much loose 3rd/4th class).
Traveler's Buttress (I thought this was good and all, but hardly more interesting than most other climbs at the Leap).
South Crack (a nice finger crack for a long pitch, but then mostly wandering slabbishness--I'll no doubt do it again but I don't think it supports the hype)
I think OZ is AWESOME!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
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Gotta concur with you about OZ.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Triple S @ Seneca
Bastille @ Eldo
J crack @ Lumpy
Illusion Dweller @ Josh
Serenity Crack
Nutcracker
New Dimensions
Desire @ Mt Lemmon
Shalaylay Direct @ pinnacle peak
NE ridge bugaboo sp
kain route edith cavell
friday 13th on Nautilus
what's my line original
shall I go on?
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hooblie
climber
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boy that was quite a catharsis!
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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There allways overrated after you did it! lol
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Prince of Darkness - crimp crimp high step, crimp crimp highstep, crimp crimp high step, crimp crimp high step, crimp crimp high step, crimp crimp high step, crimp crimp high step, crimp crimp high step, crimp crimp high step, crimp crimp high step, crimp crimp high step, crimp crimp high step
God what a mind-numbingly boring route!
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Anything at the Pinnacles
Amazing face at Mt. Diablo
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Scooter
Makes me wonder how many routes you've climbed in
Eldorado Canyon. . .
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lemon_boy
climber
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i have to agree with scooter, eldo is by far the most over-hyped area in the country (if not the world). the naked edge and yellow spur are great examples. supposedly the best routes in eldo, mediocre pretty much anywhere else.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Intifada was a bit overrated at A6. Heh... see recent threads.
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Prezwoodz
Big Wall climber
Anchorage
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I agree with Bastille, It felt good every now and then...but didn't feel amazing compared with anything else we were doing.
I think the most over rated climb I have done in the lower 48 is Sail Away that 5.8 crack in JTree. It could be because we were on the tail end of an awesome road trip but we all walked away with disappointment.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Pretty much everything outside of Colorado and L.A. (is that redundant?) you guys got it made, stay home.
Gimp, I liked Shaylaylay direct, so much that I only climbed it once, hmmm?
Also, Friday the 13th; now a lot of people climb up to the roof, lower off, and call that Friday the 13th. Kind of a greasy nondescript sub-pitch. If that's what you're reffering to then I agree with you. However the real climb is the two roofs, and there is some quality climbing there esp in the upper .11a handcrack roof. But maybe you found it less cool.
"Almost all the climbs mentioned are great ones if you do them at the right time in your career, overrated if you do them when they are beneath your level"
-we have a winner!
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Stratosfear. Followed by the Scenic Cruise.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Tune into the Taco next week for the next episode of the hit series "Macho Climber"... "Only Wankers Use Dynamic Ropes". ;-)
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salad
climber
Escondido
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The only real problem I have with the bolts on Double Cross is the placement. Both felt pretty awkward to clip.
The second bolt looked like it was drilled at a downward angle and I was concerned it might pull if I took a big one on it.
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Llama
Big Wall climber
The bubble that is Irvine, CA
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I can't believe DC got bolted, how lame. Is the climb over-rated....? Yes, perhaps. But that doesn't mean it's not a classic, which it most certainly is; and THAT you can derive from the publicity it is getting in this thread.
And Gobee... dude, why do you always end your posts with "lol"... don't make me drive up to the ditch right now and smack you!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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I hope they put some perma draws on those Double Cross bolts.
I fvcking hate gear on me when I climb.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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It's high time that pile DC got bolted; only they shud finish the job.
Crap jams all the way: hang them draws high!!!
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