Nor Cal climbing guidebook - California Road Trip

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susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Sep 11, 2009 - 12:16am PT
For Chirst's sake Billy aka Walter William Sernuik aka Blitzo aka Bloot. Get keys, go to my truck, grab one of the two copies in the back seat.

Don't drool or spill beer on them.

The book is a nice unit and has that Maximus Press feel to it we have grown to love.

~Sooze

/tweet
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Sep 11, 2009 - 04:54am PT
For sure i want to thank Bill Serniuk for his awesome photos as well as Jerry Dodrill, Jim Thornbourg and all the other great photographers that helped with this monumental book. I got my books and finally got a chance to look thru it a couple times (i need a few more looks) but it looks great. I want to thank Tom and Marty again for working with me on this project, I am humbled.

I will point out a few things off the top of my head from my sections that need to be updated or that i would fix in the 2nd edition or that i could have done better (remember these are only a few pages out of hundreds) - soon i will update and complete this list but for now here goes:

*Sugarloaf Ridge State Park - only good if your in the touristy Sonoma Wine Country and want to boulder a little and hike and explore a lot - trees have fallen on an already small collection of boulders as mentioned in the book. next edition i would replace with Super Slab or delete it and add more of something better.

*Mt Lassen and Marble Caves I could have done a bit better job on given more time and resources - 2nd edition will rock!!
-and we did forget to mention John Balds guide to Mt Lassen and the Northwest Cali guide by Falcon in the Lassen section, that was an error. but I will say it now - big THANKS!


The rest of the guide looks pretty much perfecto!!!





drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Sep 11, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
California Roadtrip - Nor Cal UPDATE:

Charlie Barrett just last week did 3rd ascent of the Mickeys Beach Arete confirming it at 5.14a (with no fake pocket)!!

Check out a pic on my blog;
http://summitorplummet.blogspot.com/2009/09/chuck-b-sends-big.html

and of course get all the up to date info for this and all the Mickey's Beach classics in California Roadtrip - Nor Cal!

also check out my blog for beta on new areas like the new bouldering spot near Castle Rock; Tree in the Wall as well as much more Nor Cal pics, vids and info to work with and update all my guidebooks.

http://www.summitorplummet.blogspot.com

mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Sep 13, 2009 - 11:03pm PT
Three great treats in one day! Got to meet Tom (and his friend Brandon) yesterday. Got to hang out and climb with them, and got my copies of the book too.

The book looks good; I thought the action photos were particularly well done and chosen. I'll check out some areas I've never even heard of.

Now it's going to take me hours with a pen and highlighter to "bring it up to date."
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Sep 13, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
I finally got my hands on a copy today and have to say that the book is great!
It's huge, lots of places that I have yet to explore.


Excellent job guys!
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Sep 14, 2009 - 12:21am PT
Oh, and I have one complaint: the book is so big I'm going to have to take it or the rack. I can't carry both!
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2009 - 12:49am PT
Brad, just make one of those two daughters carry it. Or just man up and consider it "training weight". Add a star to Iron Eagle ;)
It was great to meet you and a few legends last weekend. Munge... sorry I got swept away. I didn't get to thank you for your help editing and I wanted to hang and chat, and I didn't get to meet Dodrill... two legends I missed... Hope the pass was awesome.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Sep 14, 2009 - 03:28pm PT
Tom, yesterday my oldest daughter carried more in her pack than I did. First time ever. Someday, I hope, she'll carry a big pack and carry me too.

Yesterday the Godfather got 8 - 10 TR laps and one or two leads. Concensus is solid 10c, one star. Nice job.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol, CA
Sep 14, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
Hey Tom, Brad,
I was hoping to stop by, but got carried away making more work for you guidebook authors, and it got late, and we were hungry... Sorry I missed the shindig. I did see the book though, and WOW! That was a super ambitious project, well done. Thanks.

Jerry
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2009 - 04:58pm PT
More new routes? I had to promise Brad I wouldn't do that anymore. Did munge make it out alive? Jerry, thanks for the awesome pics. That castle crags shot (wish everyone could see it in color... maybe 2nd ed?) just makes me want to hop in my car and drive there.
flying monkey

Trad climber
mount shasta, california
Sep 18, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
Great job on your book! Let me know when your coming up with the posse.
-iaN
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2009 - 06:41pm PT
Ian, Thanks for the beta and topo update. My friend Paul hooked us up with that Cosmic pic. He's a transplant from Cen. Cal. I'm heading up next summer no matter what, I'll get in touch. Dodrill did it justice on the scenics.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
Sprocketville
Sep 19, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
how is the index?

a really good index usually means a really good book,
and they hate to write it, the book is done, so they thought.
who wants to pound my wife?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 19, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
wtf?


edit... ooops, sorry, I'm saying wtf to sprock. "want to pound my wife?"



Tom, werd, tried sending emails to you but my hosting is jacked up and not allowing sent messages thru. its really starting to piss me off.

anyways, good to meet ya. let's catch up soon.

Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
Index... took me many many days... 2,000+ routes in ABC order with grades and page numbers, all the areas in bold, and I even specified which Regular Route went with which area... how's that? Good enough for ya? Now go buy the book ;) and leave the wife alone.

Munge... I had asked Brad the night before... "is Munge comin'?" He said no. So I didn't bring an extra book up the hill to Burst. But I have one for ya! Thanks for editing the Flumes wall. You've helped me out a lot with my online ignorance and I thank you for always taking the time to help me out with posting pics etc.

Anyway... figure out your email and let's exchange info. Hope you and Jerry had a blast up high (wink wink nudge nudge). Saw one pic he sent ... gawk! Lucky!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 20, 2009 - 12:35am PT
Jerry photoshops too much. heh


just tried the lm... email for you and it bounced. I'll send via a different email address.

thx a lot!!

Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2009 - 12:39am PT
use tomslaterphotography@yahoo.com

That'll work!

While I'm here... IF YOU WANT RAD PICTURES and want to burn a few hours at work, ha ha, go here -

Peter Valchev's pictures

http://sightly.net/peter/trips/index.html

When you're done you're gonna be fired up to climb! so don't look at these late at night unless you have a really good head lamp and a really dedicated partner.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 20, 2009 - 01:29am PT
just decided to go to Canada

whoa! mt. joy route looks cool
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Sep 25, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
check out some more pics from our guide or from areas in the guide on my new blog;

http://summitorplummet.blogspot.com/

and thanks for everyone's feedback.

chris s
billygoat

climber
cruzville
Nov 8, 2009 - 12:55am PT
Hey guys,

Just got the book a few days ago and I've been reading it nonstop. I gotta say, really nice concept! I think you did a pretty good job; however, I hope this continues to evolve over future editions. It could use lots of little changes and additions, by which I don't mean to belittle what you've done. This is a massive accomplishment, and I hope you continue to pour effort into polishing it for future editions. Lots of spots where information is repeated and you could cut that out while making additions to route information in other spots. One example: two topos for the Monolith and duplicated info on two separate pages, but no mention of nearby Tiburcio's routes or (slightly further out) classics on The Hand. Also many routes lack a bolt count even though that info is readily available--like for Owens. But, all in all, I'm way stoked to have my copy, so thanks a bunch!
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