Pasiano Overhang, Suicide - Partner needed

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 79 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
Aug 23, 2009 - 09:10am PT
OK, I am outta here to go help Will on his project - got my camera!
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Aug 23, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
yeah... I'm only partly retarded at the moment...

So I have an idea of the location...


When will this shizzle gonna be happening!!?

Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Aug 23, 2009 - 07:07pm PT

It should be all over 'cept for the cryin' by now..... pics by sundown?

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 23, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
Will's pics will be like my pics;.....out of the gate like a racehorse;......hanging like a bat at the lip.....lower to the ledge and go home like a dog with his tail between his legs......it's predictable, and a sad yet realistic situation of biting off more than one can chew......(Prove me wrong, Will......make me eat my words.....afterall;...it's only 15 feet of climbing;...how hard can 15' be?...)
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
Took 3 legit burns. Hand(s) on the lip on attemps 2 & 3. More bouldery trickery and beta intensive than I anticipated, and tighter than I expected, there is a neckdown halfway out the thing where your feet have to come around it.

Still, managed to get through the body pivot and hands in front of feet. Fired out to the lip, one hand on the side lip, one on the front, tried placing a cam from there....4.5 camalot is too tight, needed another #4 which I didn't have. Stayed in that position trying to find a place to get the overcammed 4.5 in, then fumbled the clip 4 times before clipping. Too gassed to continue after all the fumbling from a situp position, ejected and almost puked. Pretty good view while fumbling that clip though. Good times.

I'm encouraged. Always knew it would be a multiple session project, and made pretty good progress today I think...to the lip on the second go. It is much shorter and goes down less than I thought, but the position under that very last section...it does not disappoint, with the slab dropping steeply away, looking upside down for about 300' to the base of the Sunshine face feeling like you're going to pitch out head first any second is pretty cool.


Hey Todd, after I send it, I'll belay you while you try. This is maybe my favorite style of climbing, so you won't see me leading the Beaver or Equinox anytime soon, but this thing seems doable with a little work.

MisterE, my companion in shenanigans today, took quite a few sports action pics. However, camera containing said pics may still be at the base of the Weeping Wall or even Paisano Ledge....not sure. And a big shout out to MisterE for joining onto this hairbrained scheme in the first place. It was way easier to climb out there over the void knowing my bro E was on the other end of the rope.

I'll be back soon. Soon as my left hip works right again, left foot doesn't feel like it's been in a vice, and I get another old #4 Camalot....so maybe next week.
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Aug 23, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
KICK AAAAAAASSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!11166

Way to get after it!
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
Aug 23, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
I am bummed about losing my camera - I got some great shots of Will doing double bat-hangs out this rig, as well as gettin' all jiggy with some wild swing moves to an edge jug on the left side...
damn - Guess I'll do a lost camera post and hope for the best.

It was my first trip to Suicide, so it was cool just to check it, help a brother out and, frankly, watch some pretty cool climbing from a spectacular position.

Thanks for the great day and adventure, Will!

Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Aug 23, 2009 - 10:00pm PT
It's been told, Can't say....


How convenient though..... the olde "lost the camera" routine..... so tell me.... how good was the happy hour at that strip bar in Indio?
justthemaid

climber
Los Angeles
Aug 23, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
You WOULD know there's a stripper bar in Indio Russ ;)
dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Aug 23, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
Ha, Nice work it's not something that falls easily. Big cash for giving it a go! you'll nail it.

Bruce.
apogee

climber
Aug 24, 2009 - 12:59am PT
Good on ya' for the effort- this puts you in a very small club. It'll be waiting for your next inspiration, and we'll be psyched to see the pix.
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Aug 24, 2009 - 12:59am PT
You WOULD know there's a stripper bar in Indio Russ ;)

I heard it from Jimmy Swaggarts lips..... and he knows his skank!


from Wiki:
On October 11, 1991, Swaggart was found, for the second time, in the company of a prostitute, Rosemary Garcia,[11] when he was pulled over by the California Highway Patrol in Indio, California, for driving on the wrong side of the road. According to Garcia, Swaggart stopped to proposition her on the side of the road. When the patrolman asked Garcia why she was with Swaggart, she replied, "He asked me for sex. I mean, that's why he stopped me. That's what I do. I'm a prostitute."[12][13] Rather than confessing to his congregation, Swaggart told those at Family Worship Center that "The Lord told me it's flat none of your business."[14][15][16] His son Donnie then announced to the stunned audience that his father would be temporarily stepping down as head of Jimmy Swaggart Ministries for "a time of healing and counseling."

CantSay edit: The food is always better than the strippers.... like the LampLighter in ElPaso... FREE lunch! Same with the CockPit and the WhiteSwallow.... all offer a free lunch buffet before 4pm. The day shift pole jockeys are without doubt, not exactly the cream floating to the top. Never went to the ManHole.... something about free Kielbasa_Thursdays™™™ sounds so unsavory, free or otherwise.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 24, 2009 - 01:57am PT
Bravo, Will;....talk is cheap;...but you put the rubber to the road;.....bang it out, throw it down, get spanked a few more times and maybe it will be yours.....Good effort;...and now you know.....I first did the climb on aid, and said....'How hard can 15' of climbing be?"....I had to find out for myself.....I got spanked bad;...but I just had to know for myself.....Once again;...good on ya......
susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Aug 24, 2009 - 04:02am PT
Yeheeyyy William! And thanks to Erik for watching out for him.

Better pics next time?!!??

Sooze
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 24, 2009 - 04:21am PT
the true spirit of adventure!
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Aug 24, 2009 - 10:38am PT
Go Will!!

Nice to see you going at it. Big time.

You know I'm always good for a belay slave on any of your adventures. Just call.

Cheers bro.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 24, 2009 - 11:09am PT
Very cool stuff! Looking forward to the next attempt and hopefully completion. Hopefully there will be some photos...
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Aug 24, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
Cool Will!!

You'll get that thing!!!!

cheers,

patrick
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 24, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
Cool sh#t, Will, breathe deep and find your inner calm, it's way easier than 'Spin to win".

I first met Todd Gordon @ Paisano, bet he doesn't remember, though....
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
Thanks for the encouragement ya'll.

A smart fella would rack that last piece...the one you're desperate to get in from a strenuous position and then clip...well, he'd have that thing already clipped into the rope while racked on the harness. That way he could just unclip it from his harness and fire it in, no fumbling with clipping the rope and no danger of dropping that cam 300' onto somebody's head on Sundance.

Might have to get you on the horn Jaybro.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 79 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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