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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 16, 2009 - 01:41am PT
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Bump for Hope tonight. Peace, lynne
To Oscar and All .... Tribute
"Do we climb
or do the mountains rise around us;
Carry us up to their heights unknown.
Are we carried if we do not struggle,
Or are we left alone."
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Aug 16, 2009 - 09:13am PT
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So sad.
A person found a link from a Spanish news source, dated 8/16, asking about translation on rc.com.
The link is: http://www.rtve.es/noticias/20090816/una-fuerte-nevada-atasca-rescate-del-montanero-oscar-perez/289143.shtml
I translated it with Babelfish(link: http://babelfish.yahoo.com/?fr=avbbf-us); and this is what I got.
strong Nevada is complicando the tasks of rescue of the mountain Oscar the Perez, who could extend themselves at least during three days, according to has confirmed to RTVE.es the club to which belongs the Spanish.
In the last hours it has rained with intensity in the field it bases, located to about 4,000 meters of height, and has begun to snow with force in the beginning of the edge where were the rescatadores, to about 5,600 meters, reason why they have decided to order its return to the field bases.
But besides bad weather, according to the spokesman of the club has explained Rock Guara, Lorenzo Ortas, the rescue route is “extremely difficult”, much more than they thought. In fact Saturday the access difficulties restrasaron the predicted tasks of rescue.
The Aragonese Oscar Perez, of 33 years, only remains and with diverse fractures from Wednesday 5 of August in Latok II, a tip of 7,125 meters of the mountain range of the Karakorum, in Pakistan.
Lorenzo Ortas has assured that the rescue will not be retaken to the 100% until at least within three days (or one week in the worse one of the cases), when it hopes that it returns the good time and the route of snow rescue is cleaned. But the meteorological forecasts in the mountain are imprecisas more, and could change.
They trusted arriving Tuesday
Although a first weather message warned of the entrance of a storm Sunday, the experts counted on the information of other forecasts that informed into good weather until Tuesday, which made them trust that the rescue could be culminated Tuesday.
But finally, the forecast of the first part was the right one and the equipment has not been able to continue with the new phase of ascent, that it had predicted to approach about 1,000 meters of the base of Oscar.
At the moment there is the strong Nevada and temperatures of 15º in the zone are expected below cero.
They contact with a American
The chosen route to rescue Oscar has turned out to be much more complicated than they waited for the experts and in fact there is certainty of no no climber who has arrived more far from which he has made it the rescue team of the club Guara Rock.
Only there is a American who has arrived at the same point, to about 5,600 meters of height, and the companions of the mountain Aragonese have located to him through Internet.
They have been able to put itself in contact with him and it has been offered to collaborate facilitating the information that arranges on the route, reason why the equipment has its advice and warnings.
The news link also has a news video segment which I played. It is not in Enmglish, but it seems to me they(and my apologies if I am mistaken) have shown some of those working on coordinating the attempt to get to Oscar, as well as photo images of the formation he is on, the line of his route and possibly even distinguishing where on the face Oscar is located.
Again, my heart goes out to his family and loved ones in this awful time.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 16, 2009 - 11:18am PT
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Thanks for your time and effort Happi. Although the situation looks so very desperate, we must have hope. lrl
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 16, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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This does not sound at all good.
http://www.dawn.com/wps/wcm/connect/dawn-content-library/dawn/news/pakistan/11-time-running-out-for-stranded-climber-in-pakistan--rescuers--il--06
Rescue effort for stranded climber in Pakistan called off
Sunday, 16 Aug, 2009 | 09:41 PM PST |
Rescuers are racing to reach Oscar Perez, who broke his leg and arm in a fall as he was climbing Latok I. — Photo from File.
PROVINCES
Rescuers race to reach injured Spanish climber
HANGING IN THE BALANCE
Swat poised on knife’s edge
MADRID: The attempt to rescue an injured Spanish climber stranded on a Himalayan mountain in Pakistan since suffering a fall 10 days ago was permanently called off Sunday, his climbing club said.
‘We have decided to suspend the rescue operation given the worsening weather conditions, which prevent this work from continuing, technical difficulties on the terrain, the little chances of finding Oscar alive,’climbing club Pena Guara said in a statement.
‘And above all because of the security risk for the climbers on this difficult mountain in bad conditions,’ it added.
Perez, 33, has been stranded some 6,000 metres (20,000 feet) up Latok II in the Himalayas in northern Pakistan after suffering a fall on August six which broke his arm and wrist.
A rescue team which included renowned American alpinist Fabrizio Zangrilli had been making its way up the mountain, considered one of the most challenging in the world to climb, but their progress has been slower than expected due to the rough terrain and fatigue.
‘Oscar is not going to be able to hold on much longer,’ Lorenzo Ortas, the vice-president of Pena Guara which had been coordinating the rescue attempt, told reporters earlier on Sunday.
Spanish Prime Minister Jose Luis Rodriguez Zapatero on Thursday called his Pakistani counterpart Yousuf Raza Gilani to request that the operation to rescue Perez be speeded up.
Two Spanish climbers died recently in the Himalayas. Luis Maria Barbero, 47, disappeared in July on the slopes of Gasherbrum II which rises to a height of 8,035 metres.
Veteran climber Inaki Ochoa de Olza, 40, died in May 2008 as a result of brain injury on the slopes of the 8,091-metres-high Annapurna. — AFP
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 16, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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Bump for something real.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 16, 2009 - 03:27pm PT
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Until the finality, the end that brings conclusion one can never give up hope. imho, lynne
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Aug 16, 2009 - 03:48pm PT
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Very sad. In the article I saw this morning, it also said the route was so much more difficult than they'd anticipated. There was a video link that showed the line drawn in, traversing across the face forever. Even with my limited ability to understand what is involved, it seemed like it must involve delicate work the entire way.
I am sorry for those who know and love Oscar.
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TYeary
climber
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Aug 16, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
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Hope until the end. My thoughts are with you Oscar.
they are with you...
Tony
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 16, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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Agree Tony Yeary, so very much agree ! Peace, Lynne
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 16, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
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Indeed.
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gimmeslack
Trad climber
VA
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Aug 16, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
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Some of this may be repeat, but I thought I'd summarize what news reports on rtve say (yes, I'm bilingual):
August 5th, Oscar fell approx 50m while descending, after he and his partner had summited. It appeared that he had a leg fracture, as well as a broken wrist. Luckily, both are closed fractures, but they did not believe he would be able to continue decent.
After spending the first night at approx 6300m, they decide that the best option is for Alvaro to go down alone (Aug 6th) and seek assistance.
The initial report says that Oscar was left with two sleeping bags, a bivy sack, stove and 2-1/2 bottles of gas (or fuel?) and (initially at least) "plenty" of food.
An "American" has been contacted, who knows the route, presumably for recommendations on rescue strategy.
Current conditions prevent climbers from reaching Oscar, and rescue attempt has been stapped until weather improves. it is noted that the route appears to be much more difficult than initially believed.
An excellent day by day summary can be found at http://www.rtve.es/noticias/20090815/cronica-de-historico-entregado-rescate/289095.shtml
Click on "ampliar foto" to enlarge photos, including one showing ledge where he is believed to be bivying.
I wish all those involved swift and safe feet...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 16, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
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gimmeslack, yo dude, thanks so very much! If what you say is true the physical ratio of survival is greatly improved. But no matter what the facts are or are not....we all need to continue to pray and hold the positive thoughts in heart, mind and soul and have Hope for Oscar. Lynne
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 16, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
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Jerry, gracias amigo! Visualization is so special to some of us. And now it's here in front of us and not only on a link.
Divine intervention will come. jesu christo unta catoria por Oscar. lrl
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Gene
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
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Don't know what to say other than this isn't the way we wanted this to turn out. Blessings to all involved, especially Oscar, family, partners and friends.
Oscar fought the good fight. His partner did right by him. The mountain was just too big for error.
gm
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:15am PT
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hey there say... just a bump.... (so his family knows he's not forgotten) ... prayers for all, as well...
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Gene
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2009 - 12:17am PT
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Latok rescue attempt called off
For 10 days, Pakistani Army Air Corps helicopters and American, Pakistan and Spanish mountain climbers tried in vain to rescue Spanish climber Oscar Perez, stuck at approximately 6,200 m of altitude with a broken leg and an arm immobilized after suffering an accident when he tried to scale Latok II in alpine style with Alvaro Novellón. The rescue became a fight against the clock, with the uncertainty of knowing if Oscar Perez remained alive, since he did not have means to communicate with the outside world. The attempt was finally called off today Sunday, due to the elapsed time, failure to locate Oscar, and difficulty of the route in combination with bad weather posing danger to the rescuers.
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18595
Rest well, Oscar.
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:28am PT
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Terrible news once again. I am incredibly sorry for the family.
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Double D
climber
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:33am PT
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My condolances to all of Oscars family and friends.
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gimmeslack
Trad climber
VA
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Aug 17, 2009 - 07:34am PT
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Acccording to Lorenzo Ortas, vicepresident of "La Peña Guara" (climbing club that Oscar belonged to), the rescue is being abandoned. It is believed that it would be impossible for Oscar to have survived 10 days given the circumstances. The rescue team, consisting of 12 climbers and 7 high altitude porters, as well as a military helicopter were unable to find/reach Oscar due to weather and the extremely difficult conditions. Conditions are so bad in fact, that the rescue teams are having to walk out from base camp, rather than moving by helicopter. One of the primary concerns was the risk of further tragedy befalling the rescue team, given the situation.
Godspeed Oscar.
My deepest condolences to family and friends.
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