To Be Brave - Royal Robbins Autobiography

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Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
Well, I'm still looking forward to getting a copy of each volume - even if there are as many 'chapters' as there were in Bleak House, and they're more booklets than books.

Edit: Tamara, I've met your father once or twice, in the context of climbers' access matters. I saw him speak in Vancouver in 1971, when I was starting to climb, and you were being born.
Tamara Robbins

climber
CA
Aug 13, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
THis is way too much fun... I'm so enjoying all the posts! And love hearing from you who knew me/family early on. I remember Chris & Terry well - would love to get in contact with them (Peter, do you know how to do this?).

FYI, Pink Moment Press is a new leg of Pace Lithography (a well established printing co. in So Cal). I believe the owners are on the Yos. Fund board - that's where they met Mom & Dad.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Aug 13, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
Hi Tamara,

Welcome to the forum. I have never met you but have gotten to know your mom and dad pretty well. Above all your dad is honest and true to what he believes. I admire those qualities.

Ken Yager
RDB

Social climber
way out there
Aug 13, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
I am really looking forward to this.

Volumes? If you know anything about Robbin's career in climbing and business it becomes obvious he packed a lot into a short amount of time. I'd think volumes would be required just to cover it all with any depth.

Spring/summer of '67 was nothing special for Robbins....1st ascent of Nutcracker then the 1st ascent of the West Face of El Cap followed. The 1st ascent of the Grand Sentinal in Canada, VI, an early repeat with Liz of NW Face of Half Dome, 1st North Face of Geike another VI and the 1st solo (2rd ascent) of Edith Cavell.

Tamara Robbins

climber
CA
Aug 13, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
Just off the phone with Dad, he said, " I think you should write that this all confirms what we already knew: That 1971 was a marvelous year " :)
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Aug 13, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
Here is a photo of Liz and Royal at the Granite Frontiers opening.

Ken
Gene

climber
Aug 13, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
Repost of Royal when he visited Modesto High School earlier this year.


RR sure has a great smile.
Tamara Robbins

climber
CA
Aug 13, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
You know, we don't even possess a pair of the Galibier boots. Fortunately, I do have some wonderful old ads (which I've scanned in) for them, as well as for a sundry of other "ancient" gear! Most of Dad's historical gear was lost in a fire... very unfortunate.

Nice to hear a recount of Dad's sense of humor - I have some great shots of similar home moments - it kills me when he does the hysterical laughter. And due to broken ribs in the past it "kills" him too... but well worthwhile! :)
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
Not only that, he's a devotee of the fine and noble art of the pun. What's not to like?

Here's your dad at the 2007 FaceLift, with Tom Frost and John Stannard. The first time all three had met in person.
The photo is also on the YCA website.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Aug 13, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
Some of my favorite photos courtesy of Tom Frost.

On top of the Nose and sitting on the tree that fell over about a week after Harding completed the climb. 1960

The rest are on the Salathe. I love the casual belay. 1961


On the Salathe rapping off after getting to Lung Ledge. Frost said that Royal must have really studied the route as "Royal grabbed the ropes and just started rappelling down the void much to our amazement".


Royal grabbing the ropes prior to rappelling.


Royal is very comfortable.


The summit. Royal and Pratt do not look too happy.


Enjoy,
Ken
Gene

climber
Aug 13, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
Ken,

Is that a Dulfersitz rap off El Cap? Mercy!

Brave.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Aug 13, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
Hi Tamara,

Welcome to SuperTopo. This is a picture of you, your mom and dad, your dad's guides at RockCraft and the clients.

Say hi to Liz and Royal.


Dawn Erb is sitting on her dad's (Dick) lap on the right. Judy, her mom, is on the far right, second row. Others you may know or have heard of: Chuck Pratt is on the far right top row. Chris Vandiver is on the far left second row. I am the second from the left in the top row. This RockCraft session was in the Balls in Southern Yosemite. Fun times.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Aug 13, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
At least he has a prusik backup.

Ken
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Aug 13, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
Another classic.

Ken
Tamara Robbins

climber
CA
Aug 13, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
Having trouble posting photos... help?? Was trying to copy and paste from iphoto, but that doesn't seem to work. Thanks!
Tamara Robbins

climber
CA
Aug 13, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
Roger, thanks for the great pic! I remember Dawn - there are some old pics of the two of us around camp. send more if you have them!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2009 - 05:59pm PT
See http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=897941&msg=897971#msg897971 for detailed information on posting photos.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Aug 13, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
Tamara-

I only met your parents once or twice in Camp 4 since they were in Europe when I arrived in California in the early '60's and then my husband and I also went to Europe in 1969.

I have always been more curious about your mother than your father whose record is so well known. There were very few of us women climbers in those days and she set the standards for many years. I was always amazed that she could beat out all those pitons when she seconded Half Dome. That was hard manual labor for a woman who looked as delicate as she did.

Has she written anything about those times? If not, please encourage her to do so as we need a lot more done about the early days of women climbers in America. When you mention it to her, she'll recognize my name.

Jan Sacherer
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Aug 13, 2009 - 07:47pm PT
Per RR writing multi-volumes. It's not that RR feels his exploits are "worth" six or seven volumes (though they ae to some of us), rather he is approaching this project as a writing adventure and a voyage of self discovery. Climbing is merely a vehicle and at times, a metaphor for the other issues he wants to explore. IOW, the guy feels like he has six volumes of material in him. That he will be talking about climbing some of the time is incidental to the through line: what does it mean to be alive?

Six volumes can barly scratch the surface of that one . . .

JL
Tamara Robbins

climber
CA
Aug 13, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
John - your simple, eloquent reply sums it all up.... my gratitude...
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