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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 24, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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Hey Rick-
I have logged some airtime on Ephemeral clogdance, up to the 3rd bolt. The bolts looked good and were all seated properly (no spinners).
Don't know about the rockfall probability in that area of the apron, it didn't look as though any damage had been done around your route.
Great route! I hope to finish it someday when I get the toe strength to continue!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 24, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
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Really great job you guys. Kudos to you for the hard work and the cool photos. You got me stoked to go over there and do a few of the routes next trip. Keep up the good work.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 24, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
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Tom,
> Dolt Hanger on first pitch of Tightrope was Chuck Cochrane's. Soon Vern joined in the effort.
Cool. The Dolt hanger on the bolt I replaced on Tightrope was the first bolt on the last pitch of Tightrope.
Is there a story on the last pitch? Apparently the last bolt is by itself, and not a 2 bolt anchor. Did you feel the pitch could be extended at some point? Or do you think it would be good or OK to have 2 bolts at the high point?
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Climbnrok
Trad climber
LA
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Love a good forgotten mystery.
According to Reid guide, Regular Mouth FA was 1964 Bob Kamps, Tom Cochrane
Only 4917 foot mention in the US I could find:
Keen Camp Summit - California - San Jacinto Area
Not sure if that makes sense that there would have been a marker there even, but being close to Tahquitz gives it some credibility....
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Cascade Mountains and Monterey Bay
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In 1964 Bob Kamps and I named that route 'The Smile'
The little 1/4 inch Rawl drives we put in probably haven't weathered well.
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