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JesseM
Social climber
Yosemite
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Jul 17, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
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Nefarius, Bluering, Mighty Hiker,
Thanks for the feedback on the cheater poop grabbing devices. I like the thoughts.
Just a reminder for everyone about the Facelift: Ken and I both want the Facelift to focus on non-climber garbage. The idea being that we always pick up after ourselves, and for that week during the Facelift we are concentrating on helping cleanup after the rest of the park users....including the good ol' NPS!
BTW...is anyone else getting fired up about the Facelift? I am. Ken has been working tirelessly as only he can to lineup a sweet week of evening entertainment. We all need to be prepared to get out there and bust it for Yosemite to earn the fun!
Cheers,
Jesse
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ericb
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
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Hey All!
Thanks for the positive feedback, it's great to have your support.
I was feeling a little bummed writing that bit on Camp VI, but now I feel like there is a strong contigent of thoughtful climbers that would like to see, (and work for) a clean Camp VI.
When I first came off the Nose I thought the only choice to fix it up there was some radical idea like a concrete plug or grate or dynamite (not really), but after taking a step back it seems shortsighted and lazy to just seal up our problems rather than address them.
I feel now that if we made Camp VI look spotless, then we could have a chance to actually make an extremely positive statement about a new generation of clean climbers.
I don't know how others feel but I'm getting kind of psyched on this... what a great problem to put into action all of our (typically) selfish skills that we have learned in our years climbing!
The park service is down to support this effort if climbers with ample big wall experience want to volunteer for a lower from the top operation. It would be great to do it during the summer when the route won't be as crowded.
Ideally climbers are always doing small clean-ups when they are out, but in the case of Camp VI a little stimulus shot may be needed.
If you're interested in helping, Yosemite climbing management can be reached at (209) 372-0360.
Eric
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 17, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
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Jesse-
Left to their own devices, it seems the modern climber will just make the situation worse per trash, till all of the upper Nose looks like Everest basecamp - a kind of international garbage dump. Somebody is going to have to go down there with a hazmat suit and start digging.
There probably needs to be something posted in Camp 4 about the mess up there. There was trash left up there as early as 1972, but nothing like now. Fantastic you guys tried to clean it up, tragic you ever had to.
JL
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Alex Baker
climber
Portland
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Jul 17, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
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Camp VI is disgusting no, doubt, and I think a top down cleaning it for real would be a good thing to do, even if it get's trashed again. The rest of the route is currently spotless, besides Robbin's old bolt stub next to the boot. I thought I'd take this time to share some more photos and comments about the rest of this great route.
Anyway, here we are about to start the route, old school style photo:
Image courtesy Paolo Speirn
Grasshopper waiting to leave Camp V:
We brought a portaledge and I would again:
Eric looks perturbed after the dirty work:
What a cool position:
Done:
Image courtesy Eric's dad who we did not know was there until the evening.
Now really done, not sure what I was talking about at this point:
Image by Daddy Grasshopper aka Ted Bissell
Finally, even Ranger's get to enjoy themselves at the bridge:
Ted Bissell
Not sure what's up w/ 2 of the photos, you can right click to see em. Anybody have some advice?
Eric Nearly Getting King Swing First Try:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyJO77EVgA4
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gimmeslack
Trad climber
VA
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Jul 17, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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Awesome.
My hat's off to you guys.
Simply Awesome.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 17, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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Eric looks perturbed after the dirty work:
Can't say I blame him if he was!
That vid of the King Swing is cool. Good job, dudes!
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JesseM
Social climber
Yosemite
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Jul 17, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
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Largo,
I think we will put together something at the Camp 4 Climber's Info Board showing our clean-up efforts over the years, and what Camp 6 looks like these days.
Hopefully that can add to the peer pressure to climb in a clean responsible style. Climbers should prepare not only for the mechanics of climbing and summiting, but also the process of doing it with respect to the vertical wilderness of El Cap or any other wall for that matter.
I think almost every climber agrees that what we have seen at Everest Base Camp or Camp 6 shows the very worst of our sport, but the willingness to work together to clean-up after others shows the selfless respect that most of have for these awesome places.
Jesse
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Buju
Trad climber
the range of light
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Jul 18, 2009 - 02:39am PT
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Grasshopper, Shakespere..
I tried to hide the body of some wise guy in the crack in camp VI last year. didja find it?
great work, proud send!
-The Rog
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 18, 2009 - 02:49am PT
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Good effort guys. It is appreciated by all.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 18, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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good on you guys! thanks for your part in the ongoing effort to clean up that historic, and overused, route.
Too many people...
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jul 18, 2009 - 01:08pm PT
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Good effort guys!
I just passed through Camp VI. Unfortunately I slept there sans portaledge. I was revolted. I wouldn't have been able to reach down to any of the trash had I wanted too, its too deep. I think that trash must go down 10 feet or more. I would be willing to help out cleaning it up if anyone has some good ideas on how.
I think it would require big hooked spears for poking and pulling, grabbers for grabbing, and several haul bags and garbage bags... nasty... maybe a tyvex suit?
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jul 18, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
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Great photos & TR. The garbage is uber gross. I won't feel so bad as I pluck toilet paper flowers this coming facelift.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 18, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
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Capt it with concrete. Its the only thing that will stop it. People from around the world, people without our sense of responsibility or sensibilities will always use it. Its the perfect outdoor latrine and disposal people come across after what is usually days on a wall. Theres gotta be allot of crap in that crack, and I mean that literally. I wouldn't want to dig it out. Cap it and stop it completely and force people to carry their poop out. It would make Camp 6 a wholesome place again. It could be done to match the granite so it would look like part of the rock. You could even use El Cap sand and gravel for the concrete so it is still El Cap rock for those whose ethics would feel threatened. Something to think about, a win-win situation.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 18, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
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I really favor my sling belay....
No, I don't have any dynamite. I know how it's made, though.
I think there's an actual feasible deep crack capping scenario that is viable....Otherwise, monkeys WILL cast into the void.
It's their nature!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 18, 2009 - 03:52pm PT
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see folks, the nps isn't all that bad. outside of the tool brigade there are some wonderful, soulful peeps working for the park service for all the right reasons -- love of the planet, respect for the reasons the national parks were created in the first place.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 18, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
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"Ken and I both want the Facelift to focus on non-climber garbage."
As climbers are also hikers, and use trails until they put the rope on, e.g. at the base of the NWFHD, hopefully we can make a trip there and clean both trail and base up. :-)
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 18, 2009 - 04:07pm PT
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Word. That area sees some hard use/impact.
Nice.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 18, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
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Nice TR. Thanks for cleaning all that up.
Not that I'll ever do the route!
Zander
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 18, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
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see folks, the nps isn't all that bad. outside of the tool brigade there are some wonderful, soulful peeps working for the park service for all the right reasons -- love of the planet, respect for the reasons the national parks were created in the first place.
Well said, Bob. Some rangers are pretty cool....They ain't all 'tools'.
Thanks again guys!
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jul 18, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
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Thanks for your efforts with trash pickup. It's always nice to see people doing something about it other than just complaining. Nice TR and Ascent!
Cheers,
jordan
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