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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jul 13, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
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Thanks for posting the photo. Sounds like such fun! I can't get QT to run properly (I get only the music and a black screen) - cruelness I tell you!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
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Crimp: Not sure how you PC guys do it, but maybe try to download (right click, save?) the QT movie to your desktop and then run it from there?
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jul 13, 2009 - 06:21pm PT
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Conrad, I remember this cause I was a youngster and was in awe of the climbers around me on a few trips to Zion... I led Tourist Crack (my first encounter with any wideness- I still remember Mark (last name??)- contractor guy) yelling up at me to put in a big dude and go for it). You and Brad (last name??) took a lap on our rope, and either you or he took a hanger off a bail bolt someone had drilled. I think Mark (?) gave you some bolts to do those routes (or others) during a post climb BS session.
I think Brad told us about Huecos. I went back there with Andy Green.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 13, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
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Crimpergirl - try abd upgrade your Quicktime to the latest and greatest. I've had that problem before too.
Conrad, Russ claims it was the best sport route he's ever done. And that's goin' some. He claims to hate sandstone!! In 8 years I've never seen him talk this much about a route that didnt' require hand stacks or knee pads.
Smooth letterbox holds, huecos you can get your entire 5'10" 185 frame into and wave to the crowd (ok no crowd, just me). Simply fantastic.
Huecos Rancheros looks like mucho's problemos! Super cool looking route, when can you get back up there and add some more bolts to the finish? That last section to the chains looks sketch from the base.
We want more, much more. Let's go, I'll belay!
~Sooze
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Conrad
climber
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Jul 13, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
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wow.... word is Sharma climbed the routes and he thought they were among the finest sport climbs he had ever done. On the FA of Heucos we had a long draw for the crux and then clipped again. Might have to detour south next week to revisit the cliff.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 13, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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Great idea. Really fine work. Wish I was stonger to actually "do" Namaste or HR. You know "do" in the sense of not falling or hanging at bolts along the way.
It's not the fall factor, it's that your potentially stuck hanging is space once you come off. Pulling and retrying would only add to the gas-effect.
A few weeks ago we lucked out with perfect temps and not a single bug bite. Prestine conditions.
Next time, 84 meter cord and a carpet for the base.
Post photos if you go back. If you find any "previously unreported" routes be sure to let us know what they are and the bolt count.
~Sooze
note: this thread hijack has been approved by your sponsor
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 14, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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Awesome!!
Russ and Sooze,
Super inspiring and way sweet pictures.
Must get real camera.......
Must get to more climbing areas.....
Must get in shape.......HA!!!!
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Mimi
climber
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Jul 22, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
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Awesome TR bump!
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Jul 23, 2009 - 12:23am PT
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dude utah's sooooo climbed out....damn tourists...
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jul 23, 2009 - 12:37am PT
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Utah is so inspiring. Great thread. Thanks for the TR!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 23, 2009 - 02:25am PT
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whoa, steeper than I thought. cool
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 23, 2009 - 02:28am PT
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Mungie, some o' that sheeze is STEEP.
Capitals, mon. Dig it. Fo' real.
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crossman04
Trad climber
san diego, ca
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Jul 23, 2009 - 03:22am PT
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how was the weather out there? super hot?
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Jul 23, 2009 - 08:20am PT
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Sport climber.
Looks like there would be some nice trad lines as well as aid?
Prod.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 23, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
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Weather was perfect and not a single bug in site. I'm in capris and was never hot.
Pretty shady back in there and true with a good portion of the hike too.
Note: When hiking down the trail, when you get to a split on the trail....go low not high.
~Susan
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Nov 30, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
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The place sucks!!! Don't bother. ;)
Go to RR or JT instead.
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Blinky
Trad climber
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Nov 30, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
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Nice slide show. Takes me back a bit, the mother of my children and I backpacked in the Kolob for a few days, we didn't do any climbing... it was hard enough to get her to stay in the canyon for more than a night.
I remember exploring the base of some of the walls and wishing hopelessly for a rack and a partner.
That was in 1993 and I remember garbage dumping near the trail head, once we got in there though, we had the whole canyon to ourselves. I love how dark it gets in there at night, amazing skies.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Nov 30, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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Great stuff! Thanks for sharing it and damn nice to see you guys getting on it!
NOW, sorry for work related stuff: I just resent an email I'd sent earlier, hopefully you have a moment for work b4 you go to Maple Canyon:-)
Check for my email - billcoe@gmail.com
regards!!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 30, 2009 - 07:10pm PT
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If they can't load it I won't even try.
Missed this the first time cause I was up in the Tushars.
The Kolob Fingers are the SOURCE!
They are the Karakorum of the desert and embody all the adventure potential of that pursuit.
Serious business there though. 2000' higher than the main canyon, the summers are still blazing hot but the winters are arctic.
When is somebody going to manage the approach and climb the bullet hard dark varnished rock of the Black Diamond, the headwall on Zion's highest point?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 30, 2009 - 08:08pm PT
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"When is somebody going to manage the approach and climb the bullet hard dark varnished rock of the Black Diamond, the headwall on Zion's highest point?"
zoinks! what is this? pics??
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