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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Haven't been on it, but how's regular route on Fairview?
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Sucky. One slippery move.
April Fools now that it got upgraded from 8...
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Holy sh#t!
I almost forgot Indecent Exposure in Hueco Tanks of all places!
Epic.
-A
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adam d
climber
CA
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Ditto on Igor Unchained in the Needles. Anti-Jello Crack on Dome Rock too. Delicate slabby, THIN crack.
Pitch 4 (?) of McTech Arete in the Bugaboos...the splitter #2 camalot crack in a L facing corner over the bulge. sweet.
As for the gunks...Cruise Control at Millbrook (easy for gunks 9) Beautiful white stone. Roseland in the Nears.
My Laundry on South Astrodome in Jtree (even though it's just one move of 9...such a great route). I find I keep going back for Overseer at Hemingway.
In NH...Children's Crusade at Whitehorse. Recompense (w/beast flake) at Cathedral. The Died Laughing too...love all those Barber routes!
The 9's at the Spider's Web in the 'daks are classic too (more Barber, and great warmups for the harder stuff). Slim Pickins, On The Loose especially.
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maestro8
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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If the NE buttress of HCR is 5.9, then The Line is 4th class.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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p5 of the DNB, except that I feel it's 5.10a.
p2 of the Central Pillar of Frenzy is a good choice, but it doesn't have the "climactic finish" to make it the best ever. Maybe if you linked it with the first half of p3 we might have a real contender (but it would not make sense).
p2 of Reed's Direct is a great challenge, but it feels a little awkward, and when I escape left at the end I don't get that "triumphant" feeling that an all time classic should have.
Unconquerable Crack at Ragged Mountain in Connecticut might be a contenter - it does have a cool crux up high.
Directissima at the Gunks is not bad, either (crux at the start of the pitch, though).
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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"Eli Can't Mantel," on the planet Zork. Never has been repeated.
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
bellingham, Washington
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Epinephrine in Red Rocks
Kor Ingalls on Castleton
Godzilla at Index
Penny Lane in Squamish
Touch and Go in J Tree
Favorite so far.....crux two pitches on the N. Ridge of Mt. Stuart in Wa State....lots of fun!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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A lot of folks are nominating Touch And Go, at Josh.
Hey wake up! "Best 5.9 in the universe..?" This thing is ok, but it is what, 60 feet with one 5.9 move?
The best 5.9 in the Universe better be multipitch with something for every one, not some highball boulder problem.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Regular Route on Fairview???
Solitary Confinement, Fairview...
T2, Eldorado Canyon ???
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Lotta great stuff mentioned here, I'll second On The Lamb. I recall really enjoying Breakfast of Champions on one of them Astro Domes in JT, that route never seems to get any love though.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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I've climbed most of the routes suggested above in the Valley, the Meadows, Suicide, Tahquitz, and Cathedral...
and my vote actually does go for the final pitch of the 3rd pillar!
Great list of routes. Brings back lots and lots of fine memories.
Brian
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E.L. "One"
Big Wall climber
Lancaster, California
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If not the best....most memorable for me.....The Snaz in the Tetons. Harder and more sustained than Regular Route Fairview.
Cracko
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Rocky5000
Trad climber
Falls Church, VA
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As always, these lists betray one's personal tastes...
Third pitch of the right side of Goodrich Pinnacle on the Apron
and
The Great White Way at Stone Mountain, North Carolina.
After those my head had changed - shifted a level for a while.
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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STECK-SALATHE 5.9
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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I know it's slightly off-topic, but the best 5.8 (yes, that's EIGHT) pitches I've climbed in recent years are both deep in the Mokolume drainage: the eponymous pitch of Gemini Cracks (Hammer Dome), and P5 of Sands of Time (Cal Dome)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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How about the high pitch on Yellow Spur, with the left-hand (Robbins?) traverse? That stands out in my mind, for being where it is -- the colors, big exposure, fun moves, slightly runout and the Continental Divide coming into view behind you.
Or Crescent Arch in the Meadows. I know some people don't like this but the day I did it, I thought there could not be a more excellent climb on the planet.
Back east, Recombeast is the best 5.9 I can think of in New Hampshire. The Gunks have fine candidates -- MF and Grand Central, for example, and maybe better than either is CCK Direct with left-hand finish at top. At Acadia, is there a 5.9 to beat Green Mountain Breakdown?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I'm with Lucho, hee-hee
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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The Dike Route on Pywiak in Toulumne.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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T2's a good one, JB. Of course starting moves don't count.
Indecent Exposure is definitely up there. Gets my attention every time.
The hand crack on the last pitch of the Finger of Fate on the Titan might be the raddest 5.9 roof around, although the rest of the pitch is a bolt ladder for most people.
Double Dihedrals, nevermind where.
Sea of Holes.
Margin of Profit.
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