The Grand Wazoo, Middle Cathedral
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Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2015 - 09:53am PT
Clint,

Thanks for the update.
Looking forward to your topo.
Still not sure if this route's ever been repeated in it's entirety?
This is definitely the better time of year with cooler temps and less risk of rockfall.
My wife and I had a brief visit to the Valley last October and climbed the CPOF to the top of the 5th and rapped through the Wazoo to BW.
I'd love to get strong enough to climb it again before I become too decrepit.
On a minor note, Cozzy placed the bolt that protects the first crux leaning off the previous bolt.
It was almost impossible to clip so we placed an extension sling on a link and that of course is long gone.
Maybe some form of sling replacement or retro engineering is in order?
IMHO there's definitely a direct start (12b-c?) that would in part, slap up the outside of the BW arete.
It would be horrendous to bolt on lead and best worked out carefully for minimal and optimal fixed pro.
Not sure if the prevailing Valley ethic (if there is or has ever been such a thing) would permit such behaviour?

PB
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