Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 - 10:57am PT
|
Really nice! Thanks for the heads up!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 - 10:58am PT
|
A ten year project, hmmmm....I guess that leaves me out.
|
|
can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 - 11:02am PT
|
Completely amazing to me.
|
|
Impaler
Trad climber
Munich
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 - 12:48pm PT
|
Holy schit! Amazing!
|
|
GDavis
Trad climber
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
|
Chris McNamera, belayer to the stars!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
|
It looks kinda steep and smooth up there in places!
(photo by Corey Rich)
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
|
I would pay Tommy to let me go up there with him just to belay and watch!
|
|
altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
|
The video that Nikon has on their site of Mescalito is perhaps the coolest video that I have ever seen.
|
|
Brian
climber
Cali
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2009 - 12:22am PT
|
That is a great fecking video! I hope he makes more progress in the autumn.
|
|
Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2009 - 07:15am PT
|
Yahouza Tommy, that's one heckof a Flying Dynosore move!
|
|
the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2009 - 11:48am PT
|
i am all about free routes on el cap.
however...
i do think that the amount of bolts added to the aid/free pitches needs to be minimal.
otherwise all the aid routes will be much less committing.
while Coz and i were on the Muir and it's variations, we did not add ANY bolts to existing Muir wall pitches.
food for thought, go Tommy!
ks
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2009 - 12:14am PT
|
Well, that's all fine and dandy. But who knows what's really going on up there?
So how many bolts have been added? To what pitches and in what location please?
And are these bolts now next to the existing aid cracks, now effectively chicken bolts?
I do knott know the answers to these questions, which is why I ask. Jerry Miller and Tom Evans - can you please share what you have witnessed through your giant lenses regarding bolt addition? You've been up there Chris Mac - what's the scoop?
I really hope Tommy hasn't bolted the snot out of El Cap like Todd Skinner did on Dihedral Wall, but has instead attacked the free climbing in the spirit of Sean and Nico on The Secret Passage or Alex and Thomas Huber on their various free projects. Those guys climbed sick, hard, runout routes without adding any new bolts next to the aid lines [although they sometimes added bolts where they climbed on brand new terrain] and I have personally witnessed those guys taking huge whippers.
Adding bolts to an existing route just to make it easier and safer to free climb is LAME, and should not be tolerated under any circumstance, especially in the Centre of the Universe on one of its most popular faces.
Peter Zabrok
Ontario, Canada
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
|
Pete,
Maybe the ideal solution for an El Cap route (like Dihedral Wall) which would see very few free attempts, but quite a few aid ascents would be for the free folks to use removable bolts like the Fixe Triplex.
That way, they remove them after they are done (unless other folks are lined up to try freeing it).
Future free climbers can bring their own box of Triplex bolts to put back in the holes, while they are working the pitches on TR.
And the aid climbers are not tempted to clip the bolts from the free version, because they are no longer in place.
|
|
adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
|
"Future free climbers can bring their own box of Triplex bolts to put back in the holes, while they are working the pitches on TR.
And the aid climbers are not tempted to clip the bolts from the free version, because they are no longer in place."
That is a great idea! Especially for a route like this. Unlkely this route would see a second ascent in our lifetime (asuming he completes it) Someone who is one of the strongest climbers in the world is not going to spend months / years working a route for the second ascent when there are a limitless supply of 5.14+ / 5.15 waiting for a first ascent for someone with that kind of talent.
No sense in wrecking a great aid route with "chicken bolts" that would only serve as a memorial to a great free climbing effort. Anyone that would consider investing the time in repeating a line like this could certainly take the time to re install the bolts.
Hopefully that is an idea that will catch on before too many aid routes are lessened.
And good luck Tommy, certainly one of the most impressive (rehearsed) free climbing efforts of all time!
|
|
luggi
Trad climber
from the backseat of Jake& Elwood Blues car
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
|
Tommy... you my friend have the "Hootzpa" shalom and pound that son of a bitch climb to the ground....
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2009 - 07:39am PT
|
That sounds like a brilliant idea! Can these bolts be easily removed?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!