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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 29, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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Sick!! Thanks for this! This is on my tick list now!!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Oct 29, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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I think I recommended this route to ya, Big Mike. Ah, well. If I didn't, Then sorry I didn't....Totally worthy & thoughtful route.
A somewhat other than clip & go route, as it were.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 29, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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You did sir but central pillar was higher on the list.. next time!!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:40am PT
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The start of the route looks so ideal with all those little edges.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Dec 25, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
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Thanks for posting this to MP, Bryan.
Anyone have more beta on the run out? Sounds like the crux 5.8+ move is run out on pitch 6?
Edit:
Is is Great Pumpkin R or Goodrich Pinnacle R?
Ed
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 25, 2015 - 10:33pm PT
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Seems like there are lots of pussy-cats checking out this route, which I have considered one of my top five favorites for a long time, over thirty years.
I make that assertion having climbed it CLEAN, no pins, at least half the time. And that's Old School Clean, nothing but stoppers & hexes & a Moac.
Don't forget your helmets and think about that run-out all night long.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Dec 26, 2015 - 10:50am PT
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Ed, get Jaywood on it....
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 26, 2015 - 11:05am PT
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Nice look at the route. Never heard of it before this.
Gotta say, I hope this isn't how your partners normally "belay". If I look down and my belayer isn't even holding the rope, while f*#king around with a camera or something, we're going to have a bit of a "discussion". I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and hope the leader just hasn't placed any gear yet.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 26, 2015 - 01:35pm PT
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Very good assessment, Kevin.
It's a separator twixt hardmen and boys.
Sorry you've missed it.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
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Flanders slinging flakes on The Flakes
Dave on the money pitch
Flanders following the crux pitch
Fancy feet Flanders
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 27, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
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Roper called it "airy."
He wasn't lyin'.
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gumbyKing
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 29, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
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Great photos. Looks like a fun jaunt.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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May 18, 2016 - 03:18pm PT
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From Clint - thanks!
The Flakes.
It's one of those routes, "A 5.8 for 5.10 leaders". I did it in June 2014.
The start may be a little hard to find. The start shown in several photo trip reports here was recently "grid bolted over" by several short climbs.
The original start is further down left, shown correctly in the topo.
The original start is seasonally wet, though, so the other start may be helpful.
p2 immediately gives you some delicate climbing on somewhat sketchy gear.
Would probably have protected well with pitons. Now it's shallow nuts and somewhat runout moves on 5.8/5.9.
Plus there are 2 choices of cracks to follow and it's not clear which one is better.
Pitches in the middle often have face climbing to unseen ledges.
Eventually there is a long crack pitch (felt like some 5.9 moves).
Then the crux pitch, with a crimp move to dyno for a better hold, with gear well below your feet. The topo shows climbing out left instead, but that's fairly slick.
The upward diagonalling exit pitches are easy, but the rock is brittle / loose / little gear.
It got dark on us at about that point, but fortunately I was familiar with how to rap off where it crosses Border Country.
The alternative is a bushwhack down the shoulder and then some raps and downclimbing in the Gunsight.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 18, 2016 - 03:41pm PT
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Ed H--
That last 4th class section is easy, the ground is not too steep. I've never minded a bit of bushwhacking if I can avoid a rap. I've heard from SAR folk and the Mtn. Shop (two years ago) that there are fixed lines in the descent gully.
Just be certain to get an early start on The Flakes if you've not done it before--as Clint intimates, it's a bit of a challenge of the leader's route-finding skill.
This climb is a shady lady, in the shade on a hot day--and there's some breeze coming through the Gunshight.
All the belay stations are roomy enough for three, I thought.
One benefit of an early start is that the interested party might take some time to wander along Bridalveil Creek--at this time it's roaring full.
Also, it's a chance to bag the summit of LCR, which I've never done. I could kick myself for not having taken the opportunity.
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Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
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May 28, 2016 - 08:18am PT
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Did it yesterday. Interesting.
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