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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Oct 21, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
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Reflecting on the past, in the oh so easy present-perhaps we should have named it something like "The Chicken Skin Slide?" or better yet "Goosebumps?"
Ry Cooder produced an album years ago called, "Chicken Skin Music."
Now, the interesting thing about the term "Chicken Skin", is the that it is a Hawaiian colloquialism synonymous for goosebumps. Sweaty fingers, hair rising on the back, goosebumps, sudden need to drop a load at the base of a climb. All perfectly normal manifestations of getting on with the game.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Oct 21, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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This is the first time that I've seen this. Cool, Ed. I haven't done that route since maybe 1975. It was fun. It would be interesting to do it again. Have you ever done Monday Morning to Patio? That one is way fun too. Thanks Ed.
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C4/1971
Trad climber
Depends on the day...
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Feb 22, 2010 - 12:32am PT
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Did it in July of 1972 with my gf at the time, LIza. Remember it as a lot of fun, I loved the Apron, but I also remember the sentiment that it was for girls...
We did a climb with three different shoes, EB's PA's and RR's. They all worked, but the consensus was that EB's did best. Most of the time if you stood up on your toes the EB's would slide to a halt....
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 22, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
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I think JEleazarian has it about right on The Grack’s naming. I think it was Tim Fitzgerald, from Fres-berg, that first told me about The Grack, so I checked it out and then some…
I do remember vividly that Guido used Robbins shoes on the FA, but I’d forgotten the picnic that Mary Bomba had assembled. BTW, she was an excellent climber, very determined, with a GREAT sense of humor and play. She took to climbing with enthusiasm and grace. I think these next two pics are from the Marginal’s first ascent.
Two more of Mary:
Actually, last May I was in Perú working with friends trying to help the Q’ero people who live high in the Andes, descendants of the Incas, to improve their diets, access to health care & potable water, and address other issues.
To read my account of our 2008 trip, you can go to
http://www.heartwalkfoundation.org/expedition2008.php?PHPSESSID=8a773bd4e847a4a4133b89aeed05d890
To read the latest about the Trout Aquaculture Project that I spearheaded, you can go to the on-line newsletter for this winter at
http://heartwalkfoundation.org/newsletter/Winter_2009_final.pdf?PHPSESSID=162b9f2948525370177fe123f3740708
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 22, 2010 - 05:12pm PT
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Cool!
Now Ed Hartouni, I am loving your Crown Royal pallette above....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 27, 2018 - 06:56pm PT
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The photos that guido posted are actually on Anchors Away, I believe.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 27, 2018 - 07:12pm PT
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Woah, cool necro-bump! I clearly remember reading Guido's greasy chicken story but forgot what route it was from.
Somewhere I've got a pic of my stand-off with that bear at the base the night before Ed climbed it. I'll see if I can dig it up.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 27, 2018 - 07:14pm PT
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No No Clint-Marginal!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jun 27, 2018 - 08:16pm PT
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E and I LOVE the Grack.
It's all about the costumed ascents these days....
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 27, 2018 - 08:25pm PT
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Maidy: I LOVE those shots of you and MrE. Great stuff. Did Marginal et al. a million years ago. I remember stepping over the overlap on Marginal when I finally got Fires. Felt like cheating!
BAd
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2018 - 10:00pm PT
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broken link fix:
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!