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enjoimx
Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
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May 14, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
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AWESOME pictures!
Thanks
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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May 14, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
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What I wanna know is how do you pronounce it.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
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Here is Billy Davidson's account of the third ascent, and his attempts leading up to it, in autumn 1972. It sounds like it was a month or so after Charlie Porter and Jack Robert's second ascent, and that they had the same problem with a big missing flake. Canadian Alpine Journal, 1973. (Sorry, type size a bit small - I'm still trying to figure out my scanner.)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 15, 2009 - 12:32am PT
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I can't find the "money" shot (although I have a framed print in the den), looking up at the Zebra, almost the same as the Robbins article. Here are a couple more anyway.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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May 15, 2009 - 12:35am PT
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Man, that whole right side of Half Dome looks loose and scary. Sounds like the original Tis-Sa-Ack isn't even there. How much of it has actually fallen off, anyhow?
My hat's off to anyone who climbs that beast.
JL
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Double D
climber
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May 15, 2009 - 12:42am PT
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Just getting the big racks up there is a feat. Augie Klein and Mike White did an ascent in the late 70's and Mike was able to get some help from YP&CC...er that is they "borrowed" a few horses and staff to get their gear to the notch. They had everything just shy of pink champaign on ice from what I remember.
Scary looking route to nail, that's for sure. With friends prolly not so bad.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 15, 2009 - 12:50am PT
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Didn't the whole lower half fall off below E and party just a few years ago?
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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May 15, 2009 - 09:34am PT
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Charlie and I had an entire US Postal mailbag filled with Bongs of all sizes. One of us would be leading and the other would send up whatever size we needed. We also had a couple sets of Peck's Crackers for nuts since Robbins had told me that this was the style nut that worked best up there. He didn't mislead us. Funny that my memory of the climb ws that it didn't seem all tht loose. It would be very cool to free climb the Zebra though.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 15, 2009 - 10:48am PT
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Sounds like you guys rustled up every bong in the valley that wasn't made of plastic! LOL
The pin list for that one was always a real bruiser!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 15, 2009 - 11:32am PT
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Here Dee, your 4 photos brought up a bit:
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 15, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
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Thanks Peter, yes it's nice and shady up there most of the day.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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May 15, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
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I really oughta digitize my old slides..........some day.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 15, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
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Here are a couple more that I had scanned.
Rick starting the headwall bolt ladder.
Rick on the summit overhangs.
Looking down the first pitch of the Zebra.
I remember that the bolts were very well spaced out. I am 6'2" (same as Royal) and I thought they would be VERY hard to place on that steepness. He did brag about that some in the story.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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May 15, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
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After I did the NA with Bill Denze he went up on Tis-s-ack with some guy from Virginia. He pulled some big flake off and it sliced his leg bad. I think he was rescued if I remember correctly...Werner?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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Shipley in the Zebra, 1983:
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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May 15, 2009 - 03:27pm PT
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Hello everyone!
I read Robbin's article when I was about fifteen and had just started climbing. His writing and the great photos (Glen Denny?)really captured my imagination. I thought I would never be able to climb anything like that. I was at Mirror lake with the Pollock brothers (Matt and Bruce)watching Charlie and Jack top out on their ascent. I had also talked to Fig and heard his horror stories. A few years later in the fall of 1974 I figured the time was right. My partner was Jim Orey. For you that don't know him or haven't heard of him he was a regular climbing partner of mine in the eary/mid seventies. I first met him in the gray bands on El Cap when he and Jack were doing an early ascent of the Muir wall and I was doing the Nose with Rik Rieder. He was a great guy and a real solid climber. Jack can attest to this. We had a couple of friends help us carry gear and water up prior to our climb. We returned a day or two later with a little more gear and climbed to the Dormitory our first day leaving a pitch fixed from there up into the Zebra. Our second day we reached Sunset Ledge. Our third bivy was in hammocks somewhere around the missing chimney--possibly in the bolt ladder there. I got to lead the loose expanding pitch Royal described as a horizontal flake where four of his seven pins fell out before he finished. Our next bivy was on the ledge at the base of the ramp that lead to the head wall. I lead and fixed that pitch. In the morning I jugged up there and said f*#k it and replaced several of my belay pins with a belay bolt. I got the last lead the next day onto the summit just as it was getting dark. I could find no anchors where I had topped out so I placed two belay bolts. As Jim was cleaning the last pitch I tied into the haul line and soloed up the slabs in the dark. It would have been a long tumble over the lip had I fallen. I managed to beat some pins in a crack in the dark to fix the line for Jim. As he was fumbling around down there I hurd a clunk and a sliding sound and then silence. It was our last water bottle heading into space. Jim had stopped for a drink prior to coming up the last line and he hadn't secured the bottle very well in his pack. Damn! One last thirsty bivy on the summit. The next morning a couple of guys topped out on Snake Dike and shared a little water with us. We bolted for the Valley leaving our gear which we came back for a few days later. It was a great climb and adventure for the two of us. No falls, three added bolts (all at belays). Jim did the whole route just on a swami belt--no leg loops. I was 19 at the time. I believe--as Werner noted-- it was the fourth ascent. Two years later we would do the first ascent of the Eagle's Way together.
Chappy
Chappy
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 15, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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Mark, Thanks for bringing up Jim Orey. One the nicest fun guys ever in the Valley scene for sure. Here is a nice photo I took of him when we were trying to do the FA of the Lightning Bolt crack on Broderick around 1972.
and here are more of Dee's images tweaked up.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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May 15, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
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Peter,
That's a great shot of Jim. Just how I remember him from back then. I have some shots of him on the FA ascent of Eagle's Way
that I should scan...
Chappy
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shwilly
Trad climber
vegas
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May 15, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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I met jim Orey at the base of mescalito last summer ,chillin with his family. super class act.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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May 15, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
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I really want to do this route. Gotta bunch of new bolts and a Hurricane waiting.
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