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bmacd
Trad climber
British Columbia
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Perry, here is a shot of Dave Dunaway back in '89. I remember him talking about climbing with you in Squamish. Holy f*#k did we tie on a buzz drinking vodka on this day.
Dave was a real life cowboy from Williams Lake as I recall. I'd love to be able to send him a copy of this picture.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Nice to hear from you, Perry! Been a long time. As much as I love the place, I haven't been back to Squamish since 1979. (Still sorry about dropping that rack).
Greg Cameron
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Chief
climber
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Bruce,
Holy stabs from the past!
Nice work with the scanner.
Great to see a picture of Dave aka "Too Tall" or "Thag Simmons".
Dave Vernon appears lounging with a naked man?
Greg,
Great to hear from the "Grug from Cameroon" after all these years.
Where the hell are you! You definitely set the bar with Pipeline.
I remember that day well, I think Tom and George were up on Freeway and you were without a partner or that was your excuse. Stuff of legends. We're in Josh and So Cal for a few weeks, be great to see you and Tom again.
Perry (pbeckham@shaw.ca)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Perry. Tom and I are in Boulder, Colorado. I'll let him know you said hey. Fun times back the. Wish I had a better memory. I credit you with the inspiration for Pipeline (Pipeloads is what we had actually called the FA). Have a fun So. Cal trip.
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bmacd
Trad climber
British Columbia
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Greg Foweraker, (ST poster GCF) recruited me for Humpty Dumpty, a hard aid route on the main wall of the Chief. I found the route to be very challenging mentally and technically. We hammock bivied on the shittiest, rustiest, quarter inch bolts in the world.
Don Serl snapped these photos from the adjacent route, "Ten Years After" of us and gave me copies. He was climbing with Joe Buszowski whom I have some unscanned photos of somewhere I'm sure.
Greg doesn't say much on here, so I'll keep the backstory and verbal description to a minimum. Except to say this was supposed to be a training climb for us in preparation to go to the Yukon with Daryl Hatten .... I ended up jamming out on the Yukon trip with visions of endless alpine A4 in my head
(Insert the sounds of Darryl heckling us from the ground here) - "You're Light !"
The climb went very well for us, no falls, the worst parts were the rusty 1/4" bolts with rusty leeper hangers, at the belays.
Often I make things out to be a much bigger deal in my mind than they ever were in reality.
Anyway this post is for Foweraker .... thanks for all the good times
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bmacd
Trad climber
British Columbia
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Jan 10, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
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Greg this is from our first road trip together to Leavenworth, with Hamish. You had your sights on this route, Brass Balls. So with your permission I'll post it. I'm not sure what year this was, but it was the weekend after we first met and did the Bastille. Possibly late 70's ? Hope your life endeavors are going well these days.
I like the grainy, foggy format of these old pics, it's soo authentic.
I thought all those pitches on Humpty Dumpty were hard, the expando sickle, the rurp pitch, hooking the dyke. Amazing achievment by Hamish, soloing that thing before we got on it.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 10, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 10, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
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And Scott finished the first ascent of Humpty Dumpty solo, in 1977. He and Carl and Dick and others had fixed several pitches over winter 1976-77, starting from the end of Mercy Me, and Scott did the last two or three on his own. PDH.
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sagot
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 17, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
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Bob Millward trying Zombie...1982ish
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 17, 2010 - 11:41pm PT
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Bob Millward trying Zombie...1982ish
Complete with Whillans and EBs. Even in 82 that was retro.
Last time I saw Bob (which is probably 15 years ago), he was deeply commited to building fly rods. From bamboo I think (but that could be wrong).
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 17, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
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Nice thread! Chief, is that you Perry Beckham? I'd also like to know how Hamish is as well...Peace, Michael Paul.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 19, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
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Hey Ghost if the Zodiac climbs are the real deal and Pet Wall not so popular then how come on the average weekend in Squamish there are 20 or 30 climbers at the PetWall and none on the Zodiac?
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bmacd
Trad climber
British Columbia
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Jan 19, 2010 - 11:18pm PT
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Memories 4 the Squamish crowd
Craig Thompson was a dedicated Squamish climber in the 80's. He and Darryl Hatten established Darryls last new wall route immediately right of the Black Dyke, on the Chief, named the "Negro Lesbian" It is probably a better route to aid solo than any on the chief because of the complexity. Jim B. please comment on that ....
Craig was someone who knew how to enjoy life and always had a beyond positive attitude ...
He also made parties at my parents house a big hit !! Like destroying my moms family heirloom collectors china ceramic dolls while describing a climbing route using wild hand gesticulations .... oh god that was funny - meanwhile Darryl is passed out cold but upright in a poofy chair in the most conservative family setting he has ever encountered ... too f*#kng funny. The pictures I never took.
Hey you ST. Squamptons lets hear a few stories about Craig living on Judd road ! But what if his kids know about google ?
Squamish Chief photo scarfed from the Metolius site ...
The Roman Chimneys
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
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Jan 28, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
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My apologies for posting something about climbing ....
But by request today from Squamish, more 80's nostalgia shots of the squampton crowd in action, squish, yosemite, and elsewhere
Click images to see larger size.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 28, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
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The "aid climb on the Chief with Jim B" may be Cannabis Wall, pitch 2. Nice photos!
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
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Jan 28, 2010 - 02:59pm PT
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I think it's Slow Duck now that I look at it. I hadn't done much of Cannabis except for unsuccessfully trying to link into Freeway from it as a free climb.
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Chief
climber
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Jan 28, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
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Nice work on the scanning Bruce, keep up the good work!
I think Jim B. is on Slow Duck aka Dead End Dihedral?
Maybe I'll try to scan the thirty or so pictures I took in about as many years of climbing.
PB
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 28, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
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Sorry to hear about Bryan. I knew him fairly well and climbed with him back then, but lost touch long ago. Maybe I didn't know him as well as I thought, but he certainly didn't seem headed for that ending. RIP
As to the mystery pitch, it doesn't look like Cannabis to me. And speaking of Cannabis wall in the 80's I posted a story about it on an ST thread a while back. Those interested can view it (and the cartoon Tami made of it) at http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=877110&msg=878064#msg878064
But the title "Hard Men, Soft Poo" should give you fair warning. Click on it at risk of losing your lunch.
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
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Jan 28, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
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Perry we are all very eager to see your pictures, "all" meaning all supertopo members, I am sure. Please contribute because I'll run out of shots very soon. The problem is I don't recall many of us carrying cameras BITD, therefore every photo is great value.
Slow Duck is definitely the Mystery pitch, I am sure Tami free climbed it with Peter in the end.
Bryan was a fragile soul, very unfortunate he chose the path he did. Avoiding the challenges in this life thru suicide is a guarantee you are assigned even harsher difficulties in your next 3D iteration. I'll take my bad medicine here and now instead.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 29, 2010 - 03:29am PT
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Something about climbing?
And about Squamish?
Bruce?
The mystery for me had been that Slow Duck appeared in the Jim Campbell topo guide but doesn't show in later guides.
Here is Seattle climber Darryl Cramer on that corner, in the early 80s.
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