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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
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Apr 17, 2009 - 08:32pm PT
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Were you L-sitting the bar dips ?
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Bump for great climbing tail.
Jim, any story to tell us about FA of Leanie Meanie and Anticipation on Arch Rock with Mark?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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Bump for Coz.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 31, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
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Thanks Jim. I missed this one the first time around too. Great story, great comments.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 31, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
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GUD bump
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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This thread has it all. Could use a few more photos, someone shake Phil Bard awake and then it will be complete. Wow, good stuff.
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old toad
Trad climber
yosemite, Ca.
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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Great post! And a climbing post!! I went up to do this with Don Reid in the early 80's. I led the first pitch (5.9 not) with some effort and Don proceeded to fire the 5.11d second with what looked like ease. I thought just like you that after the bulge it went back into a high angle ramp. Boy was I mistaken, dead vertical and off fingers as well! I just made the belay totally pumped. I don't think I could have climbed another two feet. Never forget that day with Don, the master of the thin crack.
Ron
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 10:27am PT
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Old geezer story as per instructed. Hell, nobody would climb if they couldn't talk about. I may revisit this puppy this spring fully armed with cams.
Reminds me of Charlie.
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overwatch
climber
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Mar 22, 2014 - 11:03am PT
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Great story Mr. Donini. Thats the stuff keeps me coming back.
Per Mr. Aments' post:
I knew Dr. F back in the 70's and saw him do multiple one finger one arms off of webbing with both arms after I asked him to show me. He had complete control and I have never seen anything like it since. I don't know how many he did, I couldn't fathom it. He dropped down and asked me "is that enough?" Blew me away.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 22, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
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Thanks for bumping this Jim. If never seen it, what a great thread. So many awesome testimonials here. Great vision & I was laughing at this paragraph for sure:
Bulging with new muscle (thanks to the bar dips) I climbed to the fixed bong and surmounted the bulge with something approximating ease only to encounter the REAL problem. There I was 10 feet above the bong staring up at a seemingly endless, parallel sided, vertical, off fingers crack. Was I bold- no, dumb- yes, but not so much so that I didn’t immediately realize that there was no way I could possibly hold on with rattly fingers and at the same time manipulate a nut into a useful placement in a parallel sided crack. Where were the cams I needed? Oh, I remember, about five years in the future.
Solid gold.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Mar 23, 2014 - 09:25am PT
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Let's keep this one floating a bit. Does, however, shock me a bit to see one of these older thread surface and see a Bachar post.
Way to go, Jim.
BAd
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 23, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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This thread is real family fun, isn't it?
Enforced clean climbing, gotta love it.
And DR's accurate description of late-starting parties who pay the price, that's priceless.
Nice photo, Walleye.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Mar 23, 2014 - 03:26pm PT
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You said you had the right equipment, but it was '74 so you must have been missing the belay (a blue camalot!!!!)
Great story.
Cheers,
Doug
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, Co
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Apr 10, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
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Bump for Valley stoke
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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I may revisit this puppy this spring fully armed with cams. Bump with question to Donini,
Jim did you revisit this climb and if yes - what is better: 30 years old with nuts, or 70 years old with cams?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2014 - 05:03pm PT
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Alexey, you caught me on a rainy day in Ouray. No, I didn't get back on it, but my best guess is that.....
climbing it at 30 with nuts AND "balls"
is better than at
70 with cams AND no "balls."
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Great story and what a great looking climb. It would be cool to see a close up of the crack above the roof.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Thanks to all who bumped this, and for all the great stories. I remember looking at the climb up close in 1976. Fear got the better of me, though. Dale had told me about his misadverntures there, and all I could think about was the consequences of being de-manned when I was just starting law school. I ended up meekly traversing over to the Hog Trough.
John
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Missed this one 1st time around.
Jim- What a great tale!
I would of loved to have seen that D. Bard screamer, as well.
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