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roy
Social climber
New Zealand -> Santa Barbara
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Mar 24, 2009 - 07:37pm PT
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Great TR and thanks for posting up such a fine tale. Must go up there myself sometime...
Cheers, Roy
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Mar 24, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
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Your TR is great but the route info on the Link is inaccurate, on dates at least.
I climbed that Route with Harding's et al,( Christy Tews) in 82 or 83 and the summit registry already had many ascents including winter ascents back then.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Mar 24, 2009 - 09:09pm PT
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Sweet TR,
Thanks,
Zander
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Mar 24, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
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Back to the front page bump.....
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Mar 25, 2009 - 12:47am PT
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Great TR. I've looked up at that ridge a few times, and while it looked fun, I did wonder about the time back to the car.
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TYeary
climber
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Mar 25, 2009 - 02:17am PT
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Great tr. When Victor and I were talking on the phone, I had no idea what an E-ticket this really was. Nice job in getting up ,over, and down. Sheesh!
Tony
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Jana
Sport climber
Martin
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Mar 25, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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Last until August at least! j/k
I really enjoyed reading this. Amazing adventure!
I am truly happy you guys are safe..
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FinnMaCoul
Trad climber
Green Mountains, Vermont
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Mar 25, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
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Excellent. Way to bring the morbid humor of the moment to a TR.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 25, 2009 - 04:37pm PT
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approach...from the desert floor
That's not merely the approach, it's the direct start to the approach. Rarely even contemplated. Foolishness worthy of the great Warren Harding. Uh...didn't see any bunnies, did you?
Nice...
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
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No white bunnies DR, there was some deliriuos contemplation of the Williamson escapade next winter.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 25, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
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Ahhh...
Now that the iron door of "official" winter has clanged shut, visions of Williamson are safely distant.
For now.
Pass me that hookah. I need a shot of that, what was it? Strawberry banana? Peachy half-rack?
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 26, 2009 - 03:31am PT
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Just back from an OT road trip, and this...this does not deserve to be buried on the third page.
Hilarious and well-written epic-with-a-happy-ending BUMP!!!!!
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travelin_light
Trad climber
California
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Mar 26, 2009 - 11:08am PT
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So we can we say there is now a rap route coming off the SFLPP? Sweet! Way to play it cool and get down in one piece. Hilarious TR!
The funny thing was that we were up there the same day you guys were. We were trying to send Dynamo Hum, the massive right facing dihedral that you came down several hours later. Did you see our tracks/anchors anywhere? We had to bail because it started falling apart and water was gushing everywhere. There was some nice mixed pitches but it had just gotten too warm.
Charles
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
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Dude!!!!
Your tracks were like a guiding light in that canyon. We followed them all the way to the stone house. Would've taken twice as long without em. It was still a bit confusing around "The Hole".
Cheers
V
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snowey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Mar 26, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
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Thats crazy that you guys found our tracks. We knew that the gully we were in cliffed out so we decided to switch gullies through that hole. It was pretty cool how it ended up working out.
Nice TR! The thing I love most about spending the time to write a good TR is when you read it again after a year or two or 10. It really brings you back to the moment and brings a smile to your face. I can see you reading this TR some years down the line. Good for you!
I think traveling_light and I might write up something about our dynamo hum failure. Or at least our Ambien induced ice tool fight. stay tuned...
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Mar 26, 2009 - 02:28pm PT
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Nice Send on the NER in Winter! Did you do the straight-up exit variation or the death gully?
Oh, and had you guys done the descent from LPP before?! It can get WAY gnarly down in Tuttle Creek, manzanita-style. I wouldn't want to do it for the first time at night... You guys basically went down the worst possible way, I can't believe you rapped the south face!
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
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We looked for the 5.7/fingercrack rock exit but I don't think we found it. Basically from the notch at the end of the ridge we went more or less straight up following the path of least resistance/mental taxation. As in, yarding on gear on anything close to vertical. There were some snow chutes and lots of loose stuff. We saw what looked like a finger crack over the final overhang, but Kras decided it looked like 5.12 and traversed to the right and then up. It involved some belly crawling but was not too hard.
Agreed, if our objective had been to find the worst possible descent, then we succeeded;)
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kev
climber
CA
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Mar 26, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
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DRC,
You definitely beat Ian and my descent off banner. Hell, the chopper pretty much trumps most everything (except actually getting in one)
kev
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crøtch
climber
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Mar 26, 2009 - 03:13pm PT
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Did I hear someone say "Banner"?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 26, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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You got Banner stories?
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