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hhh
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2002 - 04:50pm PT
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I have not yet begun to rant, motherf*#ker. You think you're such hot sh#t, which tends to make us all think you aren't. You spray about grades more than anything. You're worried about a little stretch of offwidth or an awkward stem or a scratched cuticle, which makes it obvious that you can't anything except crimpers, maybe pockets. And you've named yourself after a goddamned Carls Jr. hamburger--now you've gone too far! Here's a link for ya: climbingboulder.com. Late.
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Super_Star
Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2002 - 03:10pm PT
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Well I just got back from the valley, so I thought I'd give you all a trip report. Thanks again for all the great suggestions.
The first day I was there we didn't have much time, so we went to the Cookie as sort of a valley warm-up. I ran into Ron Kauk doing laps on Red Zinger...he's a stud. Unfortunately, I was hoping to try Red Zinger, so I couldn't watch him climb...that would screw up the on-sight. Anyway, after he left I tried it and did on-sight it. It's sweet and it felt pretty hard after the long drive. I had to dig deep to pull it off at the crux. I also did Bev's Tower, Catchy and Pringles.
The next day I warmed up on the Jam crack route, then golden needles, then I on-sighted Crimson Cringe...what a f-ing awesome route. It reminded me a lot of a route in Little Cottonwood called Fallen Arches which I tried once, but haven't climbed. The runout at the start was scarry, it didn't occur to me to use double ropes as I saw a guy do later. The undercling at the top wasn't too bad. I think it's the best granite splitter I've ever done.
The third day we climbed the free-blast, as we were thinking of climbing the captain. (Unfortunately my partner wasn't quite ready for the whole El Cap, so we only did the Freeblast). I had done it before, but french freed the roof and the slabs, this time I did the whole thing without falls, so I was stoked. The half-dollar almost spit me off, I had to do a hand-jam dyno to get into the chimney!
We took a rest day after that, then I went to try Fish Crack. I warmed up on Knob Job(?) a 10b at pat and jack that is sweet...Reid only gives it one star!? On Fish crack I made the mistake of trying it when it was in the sun, then I made another mistake of trying to place gear at the crux. I fell right at the crux, so I blew that...it was a sweet route though. I didn't try it again that day, we went to Arch rock and did Gripper where my partner got poison oak rapping off (bring two ropes...thanks don).
I took another rest day, then came back to Pat and Jack. this was a sunday, so it was crowded and we couldn't get on the routes we wanted to do. We wanted to do sherry's crack...we warmed up on a 5.8, then did the Tube, a cool 11a, but it was warm and greasy and spit me out at the crux. After that, Sherry's was still busy so I tried this 12a...I can't remember what it's called right now, but it's a 165' bolted stemming corner...right facing dihedral. I was able to barely on-sight that. It's a little dirty, would be sweet if more people climbed it. It reminded me a lot of the Red Dihedral pitches on the Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks, there's no holds but you just stem up it anyway...way cool. After that, Sherry's was still busy, so we did one of the botled 10b's to the right of it...that was fun. Finally we got on Sherry's. I can't believe it's not a 3 star route! It was sweet. We still had about 30 minutes of daylight left, so we hustled over to Fish Crack and I fired it in the waning light...I was stoked!
The next day we did Serenity crack and Sons of Yesterday...possibly the best 5.10 multipitch I've ever done.
The day after that was an easy day, we went and did nutcracker, but we got done so early, we decided to try Royal Arches. We simul-climbed it in about 3 hours which was the perfect end to the trip. I like the hike over to the Column and down North dome gully...it's peaceful and beautiful in the afternoon light.
We left the next day, but stopped in Tuolumne to climb Cathedral Peak...there were no bolts on the summit.
Thanks for the beta, I can't wait to go back!
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who cares
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2002 - 03:25pm PT
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so you want a f*#king pat on the back? i got your 5.12, right here . . .
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G
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2002 - 03:38pm PT
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That HAD to be radical in disguise......j'see all that text? My GOD man!!
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Michael
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2002 - 03:43pm PT
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Hey, Super_Star; good job. Thanks for the trip report. Where's the link to the pictures??!
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Troll
Novice climber
under stoneman bridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2002 - 03:48pm PT
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Yeah I know it's a troll but have to put in my 2 cents. Seperate reality a party trick? I'd like to go to that party. how about a few laps on Hangdogflyer SS? 5.12 doesn't get much closer to the ground, and your not so hot partner can TR 10.96, another party trick that's only 5.10.
On Belay!
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Annoyed
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2002 - 03:54pm PT
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I think I was there when superstar was. Saw him at Pat and Jacks on Sunday. Everyone I was there with were wondering why he was such as unfriendly guy. You'd ask him a question and he'd just ignore you. Either way, go home and don't come back.
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BR
Novice climber
The LBC
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Oct 31, 2002 - 04:55pm PT
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Maybe standards are dropping since the "good ol' days," or maybe some of the various ways some climbers keep score are less prevalent in real life than they are in the mags (which has, indeed, been my experience), but ...
> I ran into Ron Kauk doing laps on Red Zinger...he's a
> stud. Unfortunately, I was hoping to try Red Zinger, so I
> couldn't watch him climb...that would screw up the on-
> sight.
Come one. Give me a break! That's the most ridiculous thing I've read in quite a while (and I'm a lawyer ... I read ridiculous sh#t for a living).
Nice troll. You hooked this fish ...
br
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yo
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2002 - 06:56pm PT
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dude positively wore out his guidebook flipping back and forth to come up with all those route names. shake off the pump, star
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Matt
Novice climber
SF
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2002 - 07:27pm PT
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Granted that someone who calls himself "superstar" might be a touch self impressed, but it sounds legit to me. Not everyone who posts here is stuck on 5.8 (though some days, and more so lately, I think that's the case).
So the guy's from Utah or Colorado or whatever and must have developed his self perception in the Boulder area (where attitude matches the altitude), but he sounds friendly enough, what's your issue?
Live and let spew. If he was trolling you guys, he wouldn't be talking about falling on an 11a and repeatedly trying to get to a 3 star 10c.
Br-
If you watch an ascent of a climb, you have blown the onsight, best you can then do is flash, no matter how good at lawer-ing you may be!
=)
Me, I'd probably watch Ronnie just for fun, but you might want to keep him away from your girl (that's just what I've heard).
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Karl Baba
Novice climber
Yosemite
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Oct 31, 2002 - 08:24pm PT
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Congrats on the fun trip Superstar. Glad you didn't limit yourself to the high numbers.
The 12a you tried at Pat and Jack is a Dan McDevitt route called Underclingon. Pusses like me throw a tr on it after leadng the tube!
Peace
Karl
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SS
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2002 - 10:16am PT
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Actually, it was Rocky Horror Show, I checked my guidebook. It's a really good route...a calf pumper.
I think it's funny how climbers react to a post like this. I used to be a competitive runner, where all people talk about is numbers...split times, mile paces, Personal Records (PR's) etc.. Some people (obviously me) are just competitive, and self improvement motivates me to climb more. I realize that doesn't appeal to everyone, but it does appeal to more people than you think. Don't take it personally...just let me do my gig, and I'll let you do yours. Thanks again for the beta.
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SS
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2002 - 10:18am PT
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Actually, it was Rocky Horror Show, I checked my guidebook. It's a really good route...a calf pumper.
I think it's funny how climbers react to a post like this. I used to be a competitive runner, where all people talk about is numbers...split times, mile paces, Personal Records (PR's) etc.. Some people (obviously me) are just competitive, and self improvement motivates me to climb more. I realize that doesn't appeal to everyone, but it does appeal to more people than you think. Don't take it personally...just let me do my gig, and I'll let you do yours. Thanks again for the beta.
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Matt
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2002 - 03:14pm PT
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SS- some thick skinned advice:
Just don't go away thinking that everyone who posts here even climbs outside.
Karl- Have lookad at that underklingon but want to have a bouldering pad under me for making the 1st clips.
Can you tell me this much:
Are those holes in there pretty positive or what?
Because the feet look a bit blank at the start there.
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Not Baba
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2002 - 07:51pm PT
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I'm not Baba but I just did that route last weekend. The first clip isn't hard to reach at all. Just forget about the fall and hand over hand it nice and smoothly. All the holds are positive to that first bolt. Right after it though, there are a few sloppers in there and may require some feeling around.
It doesn't seem as hard as a 12 but I guess ratings are all subjective. I personally like Cookie Monster more. It's a great sport route with a very intimidating start. That 5.1 ramp leading up to the lieback really intimidated me for whatever reason.
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radical
Novice climber
the kitchen table..mmmmm
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2002 - 05:56am PT
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Nope wasn't me G, although I will admit I would love to write a trip report like that....
But that would be abuse waiting to happen, so I just bore my friends with stuff like that...IE Big Horn Mating Grotto last weekend
I do call the report bullshit though-there are discrepancy's-like rapping off Gripper??? Why would you do that? You would miss the best walk off ever.
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SS
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2002 - 10:10am PT
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How are you supposed to walk off Gripper? We totally blew it. From the top of the last pitch we went about 50' right, then 200' up then started rapping off of trees to the right...it took 4 raps with our 60m rope and a lot of on-rappel bush-wacking. Should we have kept going up, or do you walk off to the left?
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radical
Novice climber
The Haig
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2002 - 02:04pm PT
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Facing the Rock, you walk off left. It is a class 4 or 3 traverse above the entire left side of the cliff. We did it in a rain storm which made the exposed moves that much more exilerating.
Quite the feat to rap off with a 60 meter rope. Would be hard with 2 ropes.
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SS
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2002 - 05:26pm PT
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Yeah it sucked...there's a tiny note on Reid's topo near the New Dimensions topout that says "4th class one short rappel" and has an arrow drawn to the right, so that's where we went...we found a few slings so we weren't the first suckers.
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Afraid
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2002 - 08:03pm PT
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Astroman if you get frightened!
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