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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Feb 28, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
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Out at a local crag a few years ago a young climbing asked me what my favorite climbing place was. Having been to so many places I pondered it for a seconds. Then my son Ian piped up and said wouldn’t it be Suicide and Tahquitz Rock. I agreed pretty quick.
Today I think of what a great time I had there last year repeating routes I hadn’t done in years and even doing some new ones for the first time. Rekindling old friendships and climbing with a number of partners that go back over thirty years we all realized how much we appreciate Idyllwild.
Here’s a shot of Ian and Darrell on Erik Eriksson’s “Disco Jesus”
Man I can’t wait to get back up there this spring!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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I must agree with Graham 30 year of climbing. T&S is still best crag I have ever climbed at. With over 200 routes led I still never tire of climbing there.
Bruce
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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A couple more pictures to go along with the one John posted of the rarely done Tahquitz classic, Flying Circus. FA: Rick Accomazzo and Robs Muir.
Ricky "Rockamazzo" displays his typical go for it attitude while figuring out the free crux on the first pitch.
Robs finally decides to drill the first bolt on pitch two at the end of the "Muir Trail".
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Mike said:
"Today I think of what a great time I had there last year repeating routes I hadn’t done in years and even doing some new ones for the first time. Rekindling old friendships and climbing with a number of partners that go back over thirty years we all realized how much we appreciate Idyllwild."
How true.
Mike repeating the historical New Generations last spring. (FA: Graham/Sorenson)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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"unidentified" climber ;) on Rebolting Development 11b R. Other climber on the Escalator Descent
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Arcy Farcy 10c... unidentified climber
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Weeping Wall, The classic 10 Karat Gold
Caliente's brother in arms, Someone You're Not
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Henny;
Graham said you have a good story about your FA of Someone You're Not.
Would you like to share?
Bruce
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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The Sunshine Buttress, Long's and Erickson's Voodoo Child
South Face of Suicide, Picante FA (aka, Dinosaur Rumble)
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Two more, then no more thread bloat.
Eagle Pinnacle, The Untickable
And finally, it would be remiss to not post this picture. For those of us lucky enough to have climbed there on those magical late fall afternoons, or with this brilliant shooting star, this old black and white captures something that can't quite be put into words.
Tobin Sorenson on the FA of Season's End
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Love that shot! and that route.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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solid Henny. pics are stellar.
thx for posting those up.
edit- especially the Robs shot. we should all have such a solid lead mindset.
there was rumor posts, as mentioned above, about that story.
would dig hearing about it.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I'll consider. Glad the pics are liked.
The efforts put into the Flying Circus by both Robs and Ricky were quite impressive. I'm not sure how familiar some people are with the Muir Trail. The crux 10d moves are right at the end of the runout. There's a slight bulge and the rock is super polished as it's the runoff funnel for that part of the South Face. On the FA Robs popped just below that stance (I believe) and whistled past Ricky. He immediately went back out, went for it again, and did it.
That there is still only one known repeat says something for the route, and the guys that put it up.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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just looked at the book. ... shows a bolt starting off the belay, but unless that belay was a perfected dynamic belay, any new skoolers belaying would get tossed good if the leader biffed.
good stuff man!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there graham and all... say, nice pictures and info...
thanks for the share...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I'd be curious if anyone knows who originally named the Weeping Wall, or did it sort of grow organically from the water runoffs?
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Great pics everyone. Most of mine kinda suck in comparison, but here's a couple more:
Me following Todd Gordon up Open Book.
Pyro on Pirate Crack.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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A bolt was added to the Flying Circus belay on the second ascent. It's now a triangle configuration with the third bolt a couple of feet higher than the originals. I can tell you that it doesn't do anything to make the seriousness feel any less. It does however make it feel like you can afford to come off since you won't be putting that high fall factor straight onto the the lower two. The first ascent party concurred that it was acceptable.
I don't have a guide handy, but I think I remember that the topo makes the third belay bolt look like it's a protection bolt a ways above the belay. Probably due to the scale of the topo and a little ambiguity when providing update info prior to the guide being published. The additional bolt is part of the belay, so as I said, mentally it still feels like you're pretty much going to go straight onto the belay.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Check out the Edge arete in the picture of the Open Book. Pretty cool. I wish there were some good pictures around of people doing that.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Thanks for all the great photos Henny!
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