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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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In 1980, after dislocating my shoulder while skiing, I had it operated on. I haven't had a problem since although I still do specific weight exercises for it.
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Feb 23, 2011 - 02:36am PT
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gotta bump this, it cannot stay buried.
too badass!
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Feb 23, 2011 - 04:51am PT
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I missed this first time around - great story Mark.
I belayed Alan Watts on The Phoenix in June 1984. The deal was he would lend me 40 'biners for a wall attempt in exchange for a day holding his ropes. He'd been on it the previous year and expected to spend many hours working it.
Climbing with Alan was an eye-opener, I'd never come across such professionalism before. At that time, climbers, particularly Brits., liked to see themselves as above that sort of thing: to be cool you had to succeed without really trying. Alan had a topo of the route with every gear placement and jam individually described ("left hand, middle two fingers, thumb down"). It turned out to be a great deal for me: he fired it first go.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Feb 23, 2011 - 05:08am PT
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Bad-Ass-tastic!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 23, 2011 - 11:37am PT
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Dang! !t was 32 years ago that we climbed that thing!
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
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Hey Mark- i remember the photo in "States of the Art" with your chowed up hands !!!! Still have that one ?
I went down to phoenix one time to take pix with Suzuki, Nitro and Scarpelli, what a team.
Hidetaka took a few tries, Nitro really struggled and Bobjust could not do it. Tells you something of the difficulty I guess.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
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I just revisited this.
Man, EB's, tied slings and swamis, bandana's, painter's pants, popping shoulders, Classic!
Your bro outdid himself with the photos. Great story, too.
I was 21 it '77 too, and just getting the fundamentals of handjams down...
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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I didn't see this before either.
Thanks for the blow-by-blow photo essay, Mark.
Cool story, Duncan.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 23, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
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must... keep... climbing... at... top...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 23, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
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When did Bill Price do it?
I remember standing in the Mountain Shop in '79 or '80, reading a report in Mountain mag about how he ran out of gear most of the way up, hung out on some manky jams, and hand and mouth hauled some extra gear on a rap line. I guess from its placement in the mag, I can assume he climbed it one of those years, or just before, but any details on that one?
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Swimming in LEB tears.
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Feb 23, 2011 - 03:15pm PT
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A really amazing story and so lucky to have those pics too.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 23, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
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bump for Hudon- bad BITD and still bad today
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Feb 23, 2011 - 06:31pm PT
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This one belongs in the Taco Hall of Fame. Damn. What an effort on hexes. I was one and half years old. Whew! Good job Mark.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Can't believe I'd missed this thread, but now sorry I caught it.
There goes my onsight....
But seriously, those are some of the finest "old school" photos ever. Bravo!
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Danholio
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Phoenix with no cams??? Awesome and inspirational. Thanks Mark.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Mar 10, 2011 - 12:13am PT
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Bump for Hudon.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Mar 10, 2011 - 12:20am PT
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Hot sh#t-nice slice of the past!
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go-B
climber
Sozo
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Mar 10, 2011 - 01:25am PT
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Stellar!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Mar 10, 2011 - 02:30am PT
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For those of us of a certain age, that States of the Art article was very memorable. Wasn't it spread over two issues? Nice to get a fleshed out version of part of that story.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Mar 10, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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DMT, I don't do anything halfway.
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