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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
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Eventually the buttress peters out into a sort of basin below the summit. So, after a little rappel, and some traverse shenanigans, we arrived on top about 5 PM, about 20 pitches from the bottom. We even found a bit of water.
Sadly, no ladybugs were seen, despite the colourful attire.
Q: How do you know the person in the second photo is not a troll?
A: Trolls have tails, and are invariably accompanied by ladybugs. I bet none of you knew that before.
From the top we could see far and wide - a lovely warm day, but no sign of the usual Bugaboo afternoon/evening thundershower, something which we'd experienced previously.
To the northeast, we could even see a forest fire.
So we rappelled down the north face - the one facing toward Bugaboo and Snowpatch. Earlier on, parties descended the buttressy ridge leading down to the P-H col, which is fairly alpine. Six rappels, only one stuck rope requiring death-defying manoeuvres, and some interesting zig-zagging to get by the bergschrund. We were back in camp at 7 PM, hungry and thirsty.
The fun that is inevitably associated with alpine climbs soon began. We'd passed another party low down, and they were just rappelling as it got dark. About 11 PM, after no warning but a slow and apparently harmless accumulation of clouds, a horrendous thunder and lightning storm broke out, and continued all night. As far as we could tell, the 'flashes' and the 'booms' were simultaneous, and must have been striking within a short distance. We lay flat on our thermarests, hoping that they'd provide a bit of insulation if needed, and were very scared. It finally eased off at about sunrise, so we squashed all our wet junk into our packs, slopped down to Boulder Camp and had some breakfast, and were in the hotsprings at Radium by early afternoon, ending a rather energetic 48 hours.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Mighty Hiker; Great report! Can you re-enter it as a TR on your own thread?
People can not believe how committing this route is-----until they "Pay the Price" and attempt it.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2009 - 01:58am PT
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FFA in '75? Uhhh, I thought we were there in '75? I don't remember using any aid but then I assumed that nobody else did either. Didn't realize it had been aided. Didn't think it was a big deal. Just happy to have an early repeat and a Good Day Out. As they say nowadays, whatever ! :-)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nice! Remember back in hte old old days, when climbing mags had stuff like this? I'm glad Alpinist is back!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
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Neither of the guidebooks to the Bugaboos comments on who did the FFA of the Beckey-Chouinard. FA 1961. FSA 1977. FWA 1981. But nothing re FFA. The Atkinson-Piche book (2003) is considered authoritative. If I remember rightly, the route had been done mostly free by 1974, when I was first there.
Maybe Rick A is around and can comment. The "Antiques Roadshow" thread may draw him out.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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How about The Fifty Calassic Climbs?
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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I talked to Thom Nephew about this route- their plan was to try and free it. Thom would climb the wide stuff and his partner would do the thin.
On the approach they had an accident where Thom was pinned by a big rock.
He had to helicoptered out.
We need a Thom Nephew thread- I'm starting it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 29, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
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Ultra Classic Bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 18, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
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Still buried in snow bump...
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Mar 18, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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Awesome History!!! Thanks!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 18, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
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classic tales from BITD, even if that wasn't so long ago (at least by my standards)....
two trips to the 'Bugs so far for me, 1985 and 1996, missed the mid 2000 trip maybe I'll be there in 2015 or so!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 24, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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Wow guys, amazing bugs tr thread!
Riley Amazing photos man.. I love your stuff.
Tons of cool photos and stories!! Thanks!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 24, 2012 - 04:40am PT
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Really great pictures! Now all we need to hear is the tale of the first winter ascent by Flavelle whom last I saw was actually sporting a minor beer gut. Lol...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 20, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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Awesome!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Bump for the radness! Headed there in a few weeks.
Anyone know if the rappels can be done on a single 70m?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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Bruce, you silly, c'est la couture de rigueur pour les montagnes, n'est ce pas?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Excellent trip on the way back machine!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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First time I've seen this thread but worth the wait!
Thjanks for posting.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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wow, my first time seeing this too. I guess I have to take back all those things I've thought about Reilly. Great photos. climb and story!
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