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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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DMT,
there's a little, great tasting, spring coming out of a pipe just barely (~500 yards) down the hill from Rock Creek on your way back to north fork home of La Cabana the best mexican restaurant i have ever been to including all of the joints down in Fres. the cabana is not open on mondays though. The spring is just as good as the one in moab on river road. the one near rock creek is on your right as you're headed south.
Nice story BTW
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Spyork,
in SoYo a 4WD is a help but you don't need it. The tales of mega gnarly roads up there are probably just folks trying to keep the place to themselves. The following is a list of the formations that you can get to with a standard 2wd and an hour or less of walking. I should preface this list by saying though that your 2wd will get f'd up by overgrown vegetation etc. scratching the crap out of your paint job. There are as well some fairly burly 2wd sections on the way up to little shuteye pass area that can destroy your car if you don't drive it right. Best to pull over since driving up to the winter gate from the burly area will only save you like 5 minutes of walking:
The Balls:
The Sphinx
Nightwatch
Golden Toad
Book of Revelations
Pretty much everything in the balls area...
Mammoth Pool Area:
Mammoth pool dome
squaw dome (this might be a bit over an hour depending on which way you go)
disappearing dome
Shuteye Ridge:
Both Eagle Beaks
Crocodile Rock
Big Sleep
Lost Eagle
Rock Creek
Queens Throne
The talon
High Eagle
Dreamscape area
Little Sleep
The Aerie
55 7's which i though was originally called 55-10's...whatever
Fresno and Hawk dome
there's probably one or two i'm forgetting.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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"My latina hottie friend"
Everyone needs one of those, Dingus. Maybe a couple!
There used to be an online site that had a bunch of updated info on SoYo... Anyone know what happened to it? It would be nice to have again. I'm not holding my breath for a new guidebook anytime soon...
edit: Maybe some of you guys will know what this is... I used to guide a lot a lot of gumbies at The Balls, for Cal Outfitters when they were around. After a long day of belaying Boy and Girl Scouts on the slabs, we decided to head over to Fresno Dome to meet some other folks. We took this bumpy ass dirt road from Beashore Meadow Rd. over to the Fresno Dome area. I was riding bitch in a friend's truck and remember looking out over this canyon/gorge, to the left, which had a sizable rock face on the north wall, south facing. Anyone have any clues? Tried to find it on Google Earth about a year ago, but didn't really get anywhere...
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Bit's & pieces of new route info have been floating all over the internet for some time.
You may be recalling Thomas Hartmann's online supplement from Rock & Ice from the mid 90s. Clint somehow captured it before it was pulled. I only have print outs.
Certainly, as you know, a lot of new info is available for Shuteye Ridge on rc.com.
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Never realized that the two guide books I found at Wilderness Exchange in Berkeley, SoYo by Spencer and Sequoia/Kings by Vernon, Hickey and Moser, would be two of the hardest guidebooks to find. And I only paid $15 for both.
Guess it's about time to put them to good use!
Thanks for the writing DR, very cool read.
-n
edit: I wrote the wrong name for the author of the SoYo book. Thanks for pointing that out crazyhorse!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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I think those books are hard to find for most people, for sure. But then I'll be somewhere and run into a stack of them. Same with the domelands guide right now. I know where about 50 of them are located. Original price.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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I always have time to indulge in a Dingus tale!
"I bought my Spencer guide in Fresno from that Blaine dude that worked at what was it called, Blackstone Mountaineering?"
I think you mean Blaine Harmon at Heubner's? Could also be SHane at California Outfitters...
Blaine Harmon with a little less red hair, a couple of years ago:
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Yep, Sean moved.
Just wrote me this morning that he's taking his kids to Florida. When he gets back to New England he's all jazzed about going ice climbing for the first time.
Crazy, thanks for the breakout of 2wd. My poor little car's already got enough dents down under.
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kev
climber
CA
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DMT,
HAHAHAH, at least you found Grey Eagle. Our first time we foolishly tried to approach from above and spent 6 hours bushwhacking and downclimbing not to find the dome. Tried to follow those wires too. Didn't work so well. The beers were earned that day.
Since then I have found the 30-40 minute approach from below. Much more pleasant...
kev
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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VIVA California and Mexican food, and the women (and men) that make it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Brad says the service bit donkeys arse and food was mediocre at best and the manager had asked how the food was and when Brad mentioned how it was the guy could have cared less.
hrm, mixed reports. Not enough for me yet.
Besides I like the family that runs La Morenita better. Too bad they never stay open late.
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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Hey Hey Hey
what's all this about places further North than Yosemite?
Do you think I started this thread to talk about STEAK???
(where'd that ball go, anyway?)
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Blaine is still fit as ever, Dingus. We went up to The Cookie last weekend and he was a machine. MiniTraxed Outer Limits, HARDD (sp?), Twilight Zone, Crack-A-GoGo, Red Zinger a couple of times, America's Cup a few times, and both pitches of Meat Grinder. Yep, a machine. Great guy.
He was probably headed out to Little Table Mountain with those bolts... I've only climbed there a couple of time; under the blackness of the night. Mountain biked from the park-and-ride to the huge boulder in the saddle on the very north end of the table, right on the 145, headed over to Friant. All stealth-like. Bummer that place is closed and I missed the time period when it was open. I can't imagine having good climbing 15 minutes from my door here. I know there have been attempts, even recent, I believe, to get it opened back up.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Kev wrote: Since then I have found the 30-40 minute approach from below. Much more pleasant...
Dave Daly and I put some serious time into that approach on the way to put in a new line we called 'intrepid voyage' ~600 ft. 5.10a not alot of fixed pro. it still needs some work on the section just before you drop into the creek. If i've given you a topo of any routes i've put in, no doubt you have read the admonition to climb with a pair of pruning shears to help keep the area's approaches not insanely bad. 30 minutes on the way up or down will really help keep the brush back y'all.
My first time out to that dome we ended up bush whacking for hours, to get to a seriously classic route and ended up walking out in the dark. What a great time!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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When are we all going to meet up for climbing in So Yo this year?
We are all real nice "hoards" that bring beer. Though I've given up lopper addiction. I got a nice pair I'd like to give away. Does lopping ever feel like chipping to anyone?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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You talking about the oven roasted pizza place next to Morenita?
bummer if so. I was hoping to try them out this year. The pie in the sky place just doesn't do it for me. Their place cooks in the summer time. No ac.
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WBraun
climber
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This thread should read "Southern Yosemite Salsa"
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Could open pretty early this year. There's just not been a lot of snow. I was at Courtright in December this year... Go figure.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Nef. wrote: Bummer that place is closed and I missed the time period when it was open. I can't imagine having good climbing 15 minutes from my door here.
There's a new area with a few estd. routes that i helped get going we're calling the Mesa. Locale unannouceable at this point due to access issues but it's a great winter destination ~20 minutes up old auberry road from fresno. Very similar rock to Jailhouse with beautiful wildflower strewn approaches. Also covered in those big black tarantulas, a bit of poison oak here and there but not as bad as the grotto/jailhouse/gold wall, deer grazing on top of the table in the evening, yes there are a few rattlers here and there, and theres a hawk floating around as well. I can put anyone in touch with local FAers if needed as i'm not in the area anymore. approach is about an hour from the car.
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