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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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That would be a big day, what with the jet lag n'shitd....
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
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Probably did it an average of once a year between '74 and early'90's.
Obviously this route played a part in quite a few climbers' lives.
Brassnuts, your photos are spectacular. Kudos to the model and photographer both.
Those shots are eras apart from the 1969 OP photo, where the leader is wearing a Whillans
rucksack and trailing goldline. I'll get 'round to that story tomorrow.
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I'm hurtin . . .
Ice climber
land of cheese and beer
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Like many of you I have vivid memories of my first time up the Naked Edge. It was 8/8/88 and I remember writing in my journal that it was a 'magical day'. My partner, Jim, and I hadn't climbed much together but doing this route together cemented a friendship that continues to grow.
We were just reminiscing about it on the phone a couple hours ago. Steller day, climb, and partner. I've been up it a few times since, but that first time . . . that was one of the best climbing days ever for me!
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crankenstein
Trad climber
Louisville, CO
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Dave is the man for the Edge. I regret that I didn't taken his invitation to do it on a summer morning before work when we worked together. Quick story about my first time on the Edge which was a failure since my partner and I were bailing due to high winds after the bombay chimney pitch. Just as we started to rap, another party was passing us going up. It was about 11:00 in the morning and the belayer told me that they were doing the 4 big crack climbs in Colorado in a day. They had already done Wunch's Dihedral and were zooming up the Edge and planned on doing Country Club Crack and Crack of Fear before day's end. I have no doubt that they made it judging by their quick progress on the Edge. I felt like a real wimp.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 08:17am PT
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So where did you first learn this route existed?
For me that happened while reading Ament and McCarty's blue book.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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I first heard word of the NE back in the Gunks, in the late 70's... There was also that short film of Beth Bennett and Lynn Hill on the Edge back in '78 or so. My first trip to Eldo was 1980, but I was too chicken to get on the NE until 4 years later.
Although I've done this route a bunch over the years, it's always a great time and the memories are firmly burned in the 'ROM'... Maybe the best time was in Sept 2006 - I met my friend Dirk in Eldo about 5:30pm and we did the Edge in perfect temps and beautiful afternoon light. I was watching the road down below to see if my friend Bob might show up - I had dared Bob to show up at sunset with a headlamp and we would do the Edge at night. He seemed only somewhat interested, so I didn't know if he'd show. But, as Dirk and I were descending, I saw Bob standing down at the bridge - he was up for the headlamp ascent! We re grouped and let darkness move in, then we headed on up again - it was somewhat surreal to be up there climbing in a little bubble of light and watching the stars at the belays - on the last pitch about 50 swallows flew out of the final hand crack as I was climbing by, bumping into me as they whizzed by. We finished up, descended and toasted the event with some Don Julio Reposado... Great times!
An afternoon on the Edge, 9/2006. A few climbers can be seen high on the route:
Everything you need for the NE and nothing more...
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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ah - a real rack. stoppers, hand-tied slings on rigid friends, some TCUs and 15 pieces total. I use that same color blue sling on the 2.5 friend.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 11:33am PT
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There was also that short film of Beth Bennett and Lynn Hill on the Edge back in '78 or so.
I think Bob Carmichael got his start in film by borrowing a camera and shooting climbers
(was it Roger and Duncan? I dunno) on the Naked Edge earlier in the 70s. There might
have been some other shots cut in, like a staged fall on Tagger.
Local could set us straight on that story.
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Jack Burns
climber
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one of my favorite climbing photos is the old black and white one of the climbers on pitch 5 with the birds flying around in the sky. dudley chelton or bob godfrey photo, i believe. i remember reading an interview with tom frost and he said it was one of his favorites as well. someone aughta post that photo.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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Jack, I know exactly the inspirational photo you mean. By the late Bob Godfrey, I believe.
It showed an aid ascent, with belay below the final corner crack. It's much older than
the book, but was that photo reproduced in Climb?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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from CLIMB!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 12:09pm PT
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Thanks, that's the one!
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
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Yo Larry!
Have you and Dave done this one together? Looks and sounds stellar from all the commentary. Me and Dave need to go do this if he hasn't already.
Prost,
Brian
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Check out the early 80's fashion on P1 - sweet! This is a guy named Nate - fun partner, lived in MN at the time. Anybody know his whereabouts these days?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 12:29pm PT
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No, he hasn't been up there, Brian. Go for it!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
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Brassnuts seems to have the best photos. Unless Pat chimes in, I might have the oldest ones.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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BrassNuts
Look at those fashionable socks on Nate!!!
Brings back memories of recent slide show I attended at
your place!!!!
hee hee hee
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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After the Rain
by Steven Dieckhoff, 1997
The Naked Edge in highlight at composition's center
(oil 46" x 72")
Courtesy of the Lefkoff collection
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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I think that is one of Steve's best paintings.
Here are a couple of scenics from last year.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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"Great Crag Routes of America start with 4:
Naked Edge
The Vampire
Nabisco Wall
New Dimensions"
Wow, I've actually done the last three of those four. I guess my resume isn't as thin as I thought it was.
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