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MH2
climber
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Jan 17, 2009 - 01:11am PT
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GREAT TOPIC!
I have no direct knowledge of Chamonix. If only I had lifted that collection of Abraham Brothers photos from the Poughkeepsie public library. I still want to get to the needles, the Rue de Bicyclette, where Mummery invented the jam, etc.
Many thanks for the look into one of the centers of climbing both historical and recent.
Yosemite is good, too, but a lot of fun has been had around Chamonix.
http://genealogie.cantalpassion.com/images/m_marvaingt/Mariemarvingt%20CP%20alpiniste.jpg
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jan 17, 2009 - 10:27am PT
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Great shots, Eastside. I hope to get have a chance to ride in Chamonix one winter.
Couple more:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 17, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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While we are fishing for stories.......Ricky and Todd?!?
The Supercouloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul. Patrick Gabarrou on an early repeat.
It just wouldn't be Chamonix without a little Gaston!
From A History of Mountain Climbing by Roger Frison -Roche and Sylvain Jouty, 1996.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 17, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
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Yes we need more photos of real stuff from real guys.
Don't make me post up my photos of noodling around on rock in the lower valleys...
(I'm going to do it; going to do it anyway).
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 17, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
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Buncha cham-posers on this thread? I'm qualified to join in, having visited there once in '68.
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2009 - 01:25pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 17, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
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Our trip to Chamonix was in 2000.
Aside from persistent weather (‘n various overall WUSS factor, not that we really had a chance to express it, haha),
We managed to climb some granite at the local town park:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 17, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
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Driven further out of the valley by weather, we climbed some limestone.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 17, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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Our crew, left to right:
Lisa, Tarbuster, Kyle, Cindy, Stevie, Kiyoshi (Nori took the photo)
On the left is Stevie Haston and his daughter, with Cindy at the center.
Back row left to right, Kiyoshi, Nori, Kyle, Stevie's wife Laurent, Tarbuster & Lisa.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 17, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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One day of sunny weather yielded some easy hiking along the glaciers:
Much thanks to our hosts Kyle and Cindy!
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
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After awhile they are start looking the same :)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 17, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
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Don't forget The Hair!!! LOL
How about a few captions for all those fine shots?!?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 17, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
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And his knickers were always nicely creased.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 17, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
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And nails polished.....
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
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Now that takes some of the adventure away..
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schwortz
Social climber
davis, ca
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Jan 17, 2009 - 04:35pm PT
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for one reason or another i dont really have many/any photos from any of the really good routes i've done in the massif...most of what i've got is from cragging or the rouges....or from atop the midi...couple of bad point-and-shoot digitals that would always die in the cold...couple years only had my film slr...so i left it behind on some of the bigger days...
the blanc...after the cosmiques aretes i think...
more of the blanc - tacul face with the top of the grand cap sticking up on the left...
top of the midi...
from the top of the midi looking out towards the jorasses and dent du geant
pierre d'orthaz - old british camping...
statue man...
church and brevent...the voie frison-roche is a nice 6? pitch sport route up on the right side of the main face of the brevent...another good warm up or 'rest' day
it climbs the cracks and corners on the right side...
there is one 6a crux down low...weird face move off of a block...and another 6a section on the second to last pitch...thats a nice pitch...laybacks and jugs in a corner...but the last pitch is the nicest of the route...5b/c i think...big holds up a corner....fernando gave me the crux pitches...so he got the beautiful last pitch corner...we saved some cash that day by hiking up to and down from the brevent instead of taking the pherique....1000m gain of approach for 6 sport pitches....what the f*#k were we thinking???
was supposed to get stormy that afternoon...hence the frison-roche...if i remember it turned out to be the only nice day that i was there in 2005...rain rain rain...and an earthquake....
if you've never had grison you should try it...cold cuts...but beats anything we have here...nice deep dark red colored beef dried at altitude....perfect with some tomme de savoie and some fresh bread....beats powerbars anyday...don't know what this guy is - meat or milk...but we walked through a herd of these guys on our way to the crag in vallorcine one day...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 18, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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Nice photos! Roger wrote A History of Mountain Climbing. Very cool that he has an FA in the alps that looks so fun.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2009 - 01:20am PT
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A couple of shots from On Ice and Snow and Rock by Gaston Rebuffat, 1971. The original climbing coffee table book!
The Chamonix Auguilles.
The usual suspects, left to right; Georges Tairraz, Gaston Rebuffat, Rene Claret- Tournier (who has climbed Mt. Blanc more than 300 times), Anderl Heckmair and Herman Buhl on the terrace of the Couvercle Hut.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I recently picked up a copy of Paul Bauer's The Siege of Nanga Parbat and saw this marvellous portrait of Mummery and his daughter from around 1888.
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