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Double D
climber
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Dec 10, 2008 - 11:01am PT
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Outstanding TR Dave... great photos 2!
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jaystone
Trad climber
EDH, Ca
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Dec 10, 2008 - 11:39am PT
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Sherpa Dave!
Thanks for the share! Be safe!
 Jason from HD Bungee
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Dec 10, 2008 - 01:37pm PT
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Very, very nice.
"I had to punch it 60m up this pitch with only five pieces in- tied off screws, a birdbeak, and a mystery fixed pin which only the tat was exposed!"
Ultra-classic!
"the wind ripped his aiders from his feet every move"
Have you tried Yates Speed Stirrups? Way better than aiders for following, and can be used for aiders in a pinch.
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TimN
Trad climber
St. Charles, MO
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Dec 10, 2008 - 01:46pm PT
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Nice trip report! The knife edge summit pics were amazing. Thanks for bringing the adventure home for us!
Is Walker also a fireman during the summer? He looks like the same guy I hung out with in Yosemite a few years ago. There can't be many Walkers around.
Dave, keep on climbing!
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2008 - 02:22pm PT
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A BIT OF AN UPDATE FROM DOWN HERE-
Ok, I have been hanging out with the other two monkeys from our trip, Aaron and Walker. Aaron by his own admittal, got his ass properly handed to him by the Patagonian climbing gods! Almost three weeks for him throwing attempt after attempt on the north tower, and never even got a proper pitch in on the route above the col! Just goes to show that even for a Valley pro rock monkey, it is quite hard to send here, we are not in California any more! He even put one or two attempts with Walker to the Central Tower, but again no luck.
Walker has been carrying his gear up to the advanced high camp, the Bonnington Platform, in hopes of teaming up with who ever he can recruit and maybe even trying solo as well. But same as Aaron, no luck yet. Tadeo, a local chilean trekking guide, had teamed up with Walker but together they we not even lucky (or brave) enough to give it a proper go in the intermident weather windows.
Two other female climbers whose names I have forgot, were briefly in the French Valley after I left. They made an attempt on the Sharks Fin, getting some climbing in but not so high. After getting off route they decided to call it and headed down.
So no new news to speak of yet, but both walker and Aaron have headed back up in the last three days. Aaron seems pretty determined to try harder this time and Walker is still looking for partners.
-Dave Turner
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Dec 10, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
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Thanks for posting the latest Dave, great motivation for me to work even harder as I think ahead to my meager adventures in 09. Best of luck to Walker in finding the right partner(s) and Aaron as he continues to slug it out. Hoping for some good weather windows for all of you in the months to come!!
Cheers! Wayne
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 10, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
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Yeah, D to the fetchin' T!
Great stuff. Be safe down there!
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Dec 10, 2008 - 05:52pm PT
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Good work! Thanks for posting.
Yeah, those storms can totally shut things down.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 10, 2008 - 09:51pm PT
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Great photos and great report, Dave - way to send, dudes!
Weather? Weather?! All I see is pictures of beautiful blue skies! Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 10, 2008 - 11:13pm PT
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Awwww, Dave
I'm disappointed you took the wuss boat. . .
(LOL)!!!!!!
Just kidding. . . awesome report, and it's great you got down
under such adverse (full) conditions, especially since Mark's
crampon was long gone. . . WOW!!!!
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chossyslab
climber
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Dec 11, 2008 - 03:02am PT
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can we trade lives, just for a while?
looks killer!
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Cosmin
Big Wall climber
Europe/China
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Dec 11, 2008 - 06:27am PT
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Hi Dave and team,
looks like a nice and rewarding trip with sweet climbing. Congrats for both the climb and for having fun while at it!
All the best,
C
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2008 - 03:39pm PT
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Many people have been asking me info for the supposedly difficult permit process to climb in the Paine, so i have put some details together on the subject which can be found @-
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=740935
Check it out if you think you ever might want to climb in the Paine some day. There is some usefull info in the link.
-D
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ryankelly
Trad climber
calistoga, ca
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Dec 12, 2008 - 02:10am PT
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Awesome stuff Dave! Thanks for sharing your adventure!
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
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BUMP.
Please read the first paragraph of the original post to clarify which tower we actually climbed.
-D
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Dec 13, 2008 - 08:24am PT
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I am very busy, stopped into the Taco for a moment of non-work-related brain vacation, and ran across this. Haven't the time to read it BUT:
Y'all should be ashamed for
1) letting this fall off the front page and, worse,
2) forcing DT to suffer the indignity of bumping his own thread.
Get it together, people!
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Dec 13, 2008 - 10:31am PT
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Awesome TR and pics Dave. Say 'hi' to Aaron as well. Stay safe and climb hard. Thanks again for posting a climbing related topic on a climbing site! Who knows what we'll see next! :)
Cheers,
Doug
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Manue
climber
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Dec 13, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
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Oh hot damn! Patagonia is da place.
Bump for cause of radness and because Rhodo-Router is right.
e.
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