Kor, Ingalls and Hurley and the FA of The Titan

Hey Chiloe, maybe you could share some stories from your ascent.

The town of Eldorado Springs was home to a close-knit community of five climbers in the fall of 1970. When I first moved into town, and joined their circle, it felt as if I had dropped in on a family -- albeit, one of the free-form and unrelated families that were flourishing around Boulder in those days. Paul Sibley opened the door by inviting me to stay in the attic of his unfinished house, until I could find something better. Something better appeared soon in the form of an opportunity to share the Rocky Rest, a tiny stone cabin, with Ron Cox for $25 a month rent. That became my home for the next two years. Much of my social life involved the five-climber community; besides Cox and Sibley, they were Margaret "Yum Yum" Durrance (daughter of Jack Durrance, of Tetons and Devil's Tower fame), Julie Clements and Bill Roos. Many of our conversations involved climbing. Sibley and Roos had made the third ascent of the Titan, and told stories about the unearthly spires around Moab. On the wall hung a photo from their 1969 first ascent of Ancient Art's corkscrew summit. During one winter-evening conversation, Roos drew my attention to a topographic map of Canyonlands, pointing out the steep contours of unclimbed Candlestick Tower. Fixated on El Cap, for which I was then getting ready, I noted Candlestick as a more distant goal....