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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2008 - 02:12pm PT
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OK, I have to ask....where and what is the Lizard King? I got one more trip planned to the Valley this Fall, and would like to check it out if possible. I am not seeing it in any of the guidebooks, and it sounds wild and enticing.
Also, blast from the past. Anyone remember a guy named Bob Williams who moved to the Valley for the summer of I believe it was 1979 or 1980 and lived at Camp 4? He climbed in the NW with us, and then took off for the Valley. I heard he was getting it done down there but that was almost 30 years ago....
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 18, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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He's dead. Died many years ago in Merced.
Lizard King is at the base of lowest point on Lost Brother.
It"s a very technical jamming test piece.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
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Damn. He died climbing I take it? Man, what a good guy and solid climber. I have such good memories of the climbs we did. Sh#t, Time flies, and I never heard from him again. and all this talk of years past in the Valley made me wonder what happened to him. Did he ever end up climbing with the Stonemasters? As that was his dream, he was going to the Valley, gave up everything and was going to make it happen, just a kid with a dream.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 18, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
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"As that was his dream, he was going to the Valley, gave up everything and was going to make it happen, just a kid with a dream."
that statement resonates with me, as I would imagine a lot of others.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 18, 2008 - 09:24pm PT
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Well
He committed suicide, hung himself.
Sorry ....
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2008 - 12:01am PT
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Well, since you remember him and he was able to climb with you guys, that was all he really wanted. He probably lived more in a few years then I have in the past 20. Peace be with you Bob Williams wherever you are now my friend.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 19, 2008 - 12:22am PT
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Kinda weird we're talking about Bob on this thread about the "Thief" which Warbler was on the FA.
I didn't want to climb with him, he wasn't a team player. He was a me player. He pissed me off big time.
Cut Warblers locks off his gear coffin and threw all his gear out in the rain because he wanted THAT gear coffin. There were other ones empty when he came back that one spring.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2008 - 01:59pm PT
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Sorry to hear it. It must have been him doing bad karma crap like that that brought him down.
I climbed with him only a few times, but he was always laughing and joking and saying "Wicked!" at the crux. He drank and smoked to much like we all did, but was one of the few people back then that could do Air Roof in Icicle Canyon and lead the hardest crack climbs at Midnight Rock.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 25, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
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Bump. Climbed this route last weekend. My friend who brought me to the base of "The Thief " told me to back up shitty anker on the top of p1. To our pleasant surprise, somebody ( who probably likes this route very much) put two new good bolts on the top of p1 with the chains. Thanks!
This is exceptional splitter line by quality and any other means . One of the bests.
Thanks to Kevin Worral and Mark Chapman to bring this route to the public.
And thank you Jim for brining me there " I'm still smiling"
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edavidso
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 12, 2011 - 12:49am PT
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Bump. Climbed this last weekend. Well worth the approach and "4th class" approach pitch. Here's a picture looking down from the top of The Thief. Can't believe this isn't done more often.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Oct 12, 2011 - 03:25am PT
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"Knucklebuster (looks good in photos, haven't done it)"
Knucklebuster (5.10d/11a) has to be one of the best thin cracks in the Valley with a wild approach up metal utility ladders cemented into the granite in Indian Canyon.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 14, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
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Le_bruce, let's add this to the winter agenda!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 14, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
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West facing is usually kinda chilly in the winter.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 14, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
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Good point Clint. I recall quitting Braille Book about 10 feet off the ground on a 20 degree December day, after swimming through snow-covered bushes on the approach.
Still, all it takes is one warm weekend somewhere in there....
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Oct 14, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
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Bet "Knucklebuster" is absolutely perfect this Oct. 14th morning in the Valley. Nice warm October day - perfect for free climbing. Could change rather suddenly in November, but today is The Day I'd say . . .
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Oct 14, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
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Dang! I missed it!!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 14, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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shoot, The Day 2011 and I'm sitting here at work.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Oct 14, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
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pics plz
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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Oct 14, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
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Mike B: Lets put this on the list, should be perfect for you and John !
steve
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 14, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
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Jahil - I looked at the photo up there and swore to start running laps on the hand crack at the Pacific Edge to get ready.
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