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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 11, 2019 - 01:20pm PT
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> So nobody knows who did the Fa?
It seems the FA was never recorded in the guidebooks.
Unfortunately with the passing of Pratt and Robbins, we may never know,
unless someone else recalls the story of its FA.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Apr 11, 2019 - 01:30pm PT
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Someone in contact with Roper? He might know.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 11, 2019 - 01:48pm PT
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If Roper knew, it should have been in the original YoGuides.
He's probably clueless, too.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Apr 11, 2019 - 02:25pm PT
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For the record, all wide cracks are graded pass/fail.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2019 - 03:13pm PT
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Soooo much cupping!!!
Yaniro and Leavitt were both way better and stronger than Haan... just ask him. And them other guys, save for Pratt...pffft. Not even playing the same game.
And Tut, just because a slab King like yourself found it hard, then shook out a rest home to find some guys who thought it was hard does not change the grade, nor my opinion. 10c braj...
Even in the marshmallow land known as Mountain Project, where 5.8+ wide gets uprated to 11a on a daily basis, they call it 10c in the consensus grades. Explain that in your next WOT.
For true sandbagging, the GC would be about 5.7+ at Woodson.
Edit: the FA was probably George Anderson, who did not bother to report such fluff
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 11, 2019 - 03:40pm PT
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Whoever did it first probably didn’t remember it after they sobered up the next day. 50 ft of thrutching.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 11, 2019 - 03:55pm PT
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Went to Woodson once in 76....didn’t seem stiff at all.
But
I don’t remember the grades, just the quality of the climbs, which were excellent.
And
That is as it should be.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Apr 11, 2019 - 06:08pm PT
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For the record, all wide cracks are graded pass/fail. (:
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 11, 2019 - 06:33pm PT
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Pass/fail is the best rating system for any type of climbing...and lots of other things.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 12, 2019 - 12:40pm PT
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then shook out a rest home to find some guys who thought it was hard
Russ for the win- That’s hilarious LMAO!
While we’re on the subject, sorta, I would be curious to know who did the FA’s of other mini wides in the park such as Badass Mama, Space Invaders, that wide roof crack on a boulder across the Merced from cookie cliff (blanking on the name)...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 12, 2019 - 12:51pm PT
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the FA attributions for those "boulder problems" is not known (or at least not reported)
for Generator Crack the information I have says pre-1963 FA, but no names
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2019 - 01:06pm PT
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Space Invaders I hear was Falkenstein. Thought it was Cilley for years but he says is was not him.
Bad Ass Momma? hmmm.... no idea
You might be talking about River Boulder, and I'm guessing Chapman. Or the even better one is called Jaws. Up the hill from Steamboat in the Elephants Graveyard? Tried it with Werner a million years ago. Way hard. FA might have been Dale Bard or Bachar. Werner might know.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 12, 2019 - 01:19pm PT
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Jaws is what I was thinking of. I remember Mike Paul recalling his throw down with it. Beef carpaccio comes to mind. Said his hands were ripped to shreds.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2019 - 01:21pm PT
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That was the day with me and Werner and Bachar... It was unholy. That Mike Paul ascent might have been one of the best and gnarliest climbing feats I've ever witnessed. He was a mess! Proud send!
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