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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
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Man, you guys are heroes.
Also, nice story Kris.
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Gene
climber
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:23pm PT
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Unbelievable. Just stunning!
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:26pm PT
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Yikes!
Don't fall. "Son Of Heart" me and Shipley 5th ascent.
Thanks Levy, "E" and Gene for the great photos ......
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Gene
climber
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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Werner,
Levy posted new pics at the beginning of the thread. I just copied his. What a wild shot!
GM
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
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Fanstastic.
Beautiful pics.
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Sep 24, 2008 - 04:04pm PT
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the rating of the bombay chimney pitch is 5.8 chimney to 10b hands- just like what mac says in the topo. I guess I need to brush up on the free skills cause I hung on the gear some. I was out so far at one point that I think that I would have probably gone 100' if I whipped.
Erik
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
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Yeah, what he said....
I thought Nietzche Chimney was 5.10 & A1/A3+. The reason for the A1/A3+ rating is that although I had a cam close-by, the crack was so downwards flaring that the cams would sometimes fail to hold when weighted. At one point I had 2 biggies clipped together equalized onto my aider & the other large cam I placed overhead & it skated when I pulled down on it. I took a short daisy whipper onto the other two whid held but if they had ripped, I would have been pachinko balled down the slot & been thrashed or injured. That is why I am declaring it A1/A3+.
Erik's lead looked fierce too but with a bigger fall potential. I'm declaring it 5.10 & A-something. Go experience it for yourself!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 24, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
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Thanks. Great TR with fine shots.
How do you go to the bathroom up there?
;-)
Karl
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Sep 24, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
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My favorite E shot:
The Pirate, Suicide [Epperson image from an old BD catalog.]
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Sep 24, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
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RE:
" At one point I had 2 biggies clipped together equalized onto my aider & the other large cam I placed overhead & it skated when I pulled down on it."
gulp...
first time I saw E, he don't remember it;
'77, coming down from Suicide rock w/ Brent Hoffman,
Brent stopped and asked E a couple questions;
I knew it then:
dude's a Real Climber.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Sep 24, 2008 - 09:51pm PT
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Walt encouraged me to get on this one, and I never did, yet
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Sep 25, 2008 - 10:52am PT
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bump for E, Levy and some great pics
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 25, 2008 - 11:53am PT
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Fabulous TR guys! Don't get to see much of this route as it has enough mandatory free climbing to keep the crowds at bay. The philosopher's chimneys just ain't sling jockey territory! LOL
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 26, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
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Nice TR!,
Jaybro, that Kierkegaard chimney has your name on it.
Zander
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Double D
climber
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Sep 27, 2008 - 12:35am PT
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Great photos! Thanks for sharing em.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Sep 27, 2008 - 12:48am PT
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Fantastic! Thanks for sharing.
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Terry
climber
Spokane
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Sep 27, 2008 - 11:10am PT
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Great TR. Thanks for the motivation.
Deserved bump!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 27, 2008 - 01:27pm PT
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Good time. Thanks for posting it, something fun to look at. Keeps me motivated, so now I'll go do my PT, extra hard.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
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Tom and I climbed Son Of Heart a few years ago, and sadly I believe it may have been my least favourite El Cap route. I just didn't like the chimneys and had a real tussle in some of them. Neither of us is a "real" climber - we cheated our way up with Tom's Valley Giant 9" and 12" cams. Even so, a real struggle. Particularly memorable were the "poorly protected California wetlands".
So I was pleasantly surprised to recall a few good memories when looking at Bill's superb photos! The colours are amazing, and in spite of some nastiness there is some good climbing on the route. I guess Son of Heart is kinda like Chongo - either you get it, or you don't. And I don't see the attraction. {blech} But I respect those who enjoyed climbing the route.
There are a few really good bits, though, like the traverse and the headwall above Sunkist. I was sorry the ASCA types repeated the first ascensionists' error in the placement of the penji anchor bolt above the slick arete - were you to lean only a couple feet out from the last natural placement, and use a left-handed driller, you could place the bolt far enough left to avoid twenty feet of vertical jungle bashing.
Thanks for the pix, Bill.
Cheers,
Pete
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Beautiful photos and excellent TR
Thanks
lars
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