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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2005 - 03:45pm PT
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GNAT
Rockstar is no Gumbie.
I am in the backcountry at least 3 days a week.
I climb, mt bike, hike, canyoneer, etc.
Maybe not at my former levels, but I have a lot more money.
Soon I will have my own farm in England. Then I will have the money to really go high.
Peace
Juan
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Mar 30, 2005 - 04:02pm PT
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I thought your first post was a riot. Especially since it was written in BURT BRONSON caps.
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Michael Golden
climber
Mountain View, CA
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Mar 30, 2005 - 05:43pm PT
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My apologies, Gnat. Looking back on the thread, I see that you did indeed bait the hook. Juan just waved it around so fetchingly that I gave him all of the credit.
Sorry about that.
-Michael
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 30, 2005 - 06:10pm PT
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Juan--
That "aid" route you climbed (at easy 5.11d) was an old free route called he Trough. It goes at 5.2.
JL
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2005 - 06:28pm PT
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Mr Largo,
I went over across the quad to the library, and got myself the Taqhuitz guide. The route I did with Jenny is called Stairway to Heaven. It was put up by a Mr. Bob Gaines and John Long. It is rated 5.12a/b.
Thats strange. It seemed way more like 5.11d?
Number of bolts seem wrong?
I once put up a route with a Mr. Gaines on Intersection Rock.
Traverse of no Return. I wonder if it is the same guy?
Juan
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Mar 30, 2005 - 06:59pm PT
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Melissa and TR, I think I may know you now. Were you guys in a rockband? I think it was called "Twisted Sister"?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Mar 30, 2005 - 07:57pm PT
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OK Internet dectectives: I throw down the gauntlet. Who's the famous hardman who's quoted below and when did he write it.
"Supertopo is now my Bitch!"
??
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akclimber
Trad climber
Eagle River, AK
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Mar 30, 2005 - 08:02pm PT
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Baba, Don't know when he wrote it, maybe a couple of months ago, but it was DrKodos.
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Mar 30, 2005 - 08:18pm PT
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Largo-
Thanks for chiming in with such a concise and reasoned opinion. I think some of the older climbers could do a lot more in leading and shaping the attitudes of the young masses.
P.s.- Sorry for referring to you as older.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 30, 2005 - 08:22pm PT
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Juan wrote: "Its pretty hard free climbing but thanks to the nice line of new 3/8" bolts I flashed it rather fast. Eight bolts seemed a little much.
I figure it was easy 5.1ld. I am not sure who established it but some chiseling was involved. Thats cool, its a super route."
If this is indeed Stairway to Heaven, as you claim, both the line of 3/8 bolts and the chiseled holds are a recent addition--and a crime if this kind of bosh is now going on at Tahquitz.
So far you've brought to our attention 2 very old trad routes that have purportedly been vandalized, and I'm hoping you're just blowing wind on both counts. Hate to see the old trad lines "converted" into toothless clip ups, especially when virtue is placed on the "accomplishment."
Still wondering . . .
JL
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Mar 30, 2005 - 09:24pm PT
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Largo,
I know you are at least as old as me. I dont know about the suicide route but the DC is apparently a "joke" going around. Whether it is true about the bolt, I dont know and nobody seems to want to sign up for the truth here. Seems as though posts about "bolting" established routes has been going on for quite some time. I hate to think that us guys in our 40's will be sitting in a steam bath later in life talking about how we used to have ethics...."back when we were climbing in the 70's it used to mean something, by god..." I just hope I am not wearing diapers and can still get it up.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 30, 2005 - 09:48pm PT
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Yeah, I figured this was all blue wind, since the Double Cross crack is about two feet deep and isn't likely to "wear out" anytime soon. But fact is, botls have started showing up on a stack of the old trad classics--even the easy ones, the ones we all broke in on. And that should be a concern for everybody.
It's not that these old routes are sacred, but that sport climbing was in part invented for those who didn't want to go the trad route. And with a million sport routes on every square inch of bald rock worldwide, it's seems fitting to hit the clip and go circuit before retrobolting trad routes that were done 30 to 50 years ago.
JL
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2005 - 09:55pm PT
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Largo, your little test piece is still intact. I doubt it gets climbed much, that first pitch off Vampire ledge is a pumper. But I did get it with on hang. Wicked Hard. My girlfriend could not second it.
Double Cross well that you will have to find out for you self.
Juan
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2005 - 10:07pm PT
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See Largo, you are probally the biggest !@#$%^& fish that swims these waters.
Its like running into the great white whale.
A chance like that does not come everyday.
So one has to think fast.
Stairway to Heaven seemed like the perfect bait. But how to craft the lure. Not easy with so many fish swimming these waters that have tasted steel.
I have to say you are the biggest catch since Eugene Miya about 10 years ago.
Juan
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2005 - 10:12pm PT
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Not to worry Largo, I can predict with a high probability I will be killed in a climbing accident this Friday. It happens every year. I just hope my mom does not see the post again.
Juan
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 30, 2005 - 11:28pm PT
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Juanito, no one is less impressed with my vast "fame" than I am, a simple realization I learned from my kids, who never much cared for who I was other than "pop." So I'm flattered that you would consider it something, anything, that I would respond. Honest to God the whole "landing a big lunker" never would have occurred to me, and perhaps that's why I've been so easily "caught." But it's fun on this site no matter what.
JL
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Lg
Trad climber
NorCaL
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Mar 31, 2005 - 01:45am PT
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Ah, now you see...that was much better than downloading a movie for 3.99, thanks to all...for participating. and for saving me 4 bucks gnight~
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Mar 31, 2005 - 01:47am PT
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Jeff, you bastard. Letting Largo off the hook?! I thought you had balls man... real trolls will take it to the grave.
Sr. Largo, you're in pretty good company for folks that have taken the bate from "Juan" aka "Batten" aka "ProwSolo" aka "Wilson" aka "Rockstar"... hell, he spent better part of the last 10 years trolling rec.climbing.
I would take everything he says with a metric ton of salt. He's been addicted to pain pills from a lower back injury years back and posting from his bed for years.
Jeff, hope the nurses are bathing you on occasion.
Poop*Ghost
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2005 - 02:13am PT
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He piled upon the white whale's hump the sum of all the general rage and hate felt by his whole race from Adam down; and then, as if his chest had been a mortar, he burst his hot heart's shell upon it
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 31, 2005 - 03:10am PT
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"I will be killed in a climbing accident this Friday. It happens every year."
Is it Christmas already!?
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