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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Aug 20, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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Werner wrote: "Anyways ..... we're all old farts now and why would some pimple faced bouldering sport climber give a sh'it about people back then, eh?"
Hate to say it, but Werner makes a good point. Did any of you guys back in the day give a rat's ass about Dick Leonard?
It's the new wave and it's sweeping us out to sea. Deal with it.
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ec
climber
ca
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Aug 20, 2008 - 02:27am PT
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Gary,
Yes. Early on I tried to learn about climbing and who's doing what...'don't care as much now though. 'Too much B.S. about pimple faced bouldering sport climbers! Besides, I don't like the water and resist being carried out to sea. I am well anchored. That's how I deal with it. If the new wave doen't need to know about the past, they won't have a future.
 ec
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2008 - 11:42am PT
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Lest you think MasterBates worked his charm only in the ditch, look what a rather studly face climber wrote about Machete Direct in the Pinnacles.
(Barry did it with) no seiging, no rests on the rope. He rated it good 5.11 which I knew I could do at the time, but then why was I going up happily, hitting a befuddling, cockeyed crux, not figuring it and falling, lowering to the ground, pooped and starting over for the third time? Why was the sun going already? Was this another of Barry’s specials, like Mechanic's Delight, his 5.10 overhanging 5.11? Last try I got it, finally figuring how to span hamstrings just so and use that handhold, not that one, and don’t jerk, just creep and ... It’s a fine mental machination crux worth fiddling - 5.12 in my book. --Tom Higgins
Barry did that route in 1987. On Pinnacles' choss.
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Aug 20, 2008 - 12:08pm PT
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"If one among those climbers is more real from the "tough guy" consideration, who among the list of "well known climbers" would claim to be a real climber when facing some genuinely tough, tough guys perhaps 4,000 years ago, who clawed their way to serious Alaska Range summits, with sticks and what was to the villagers, abject insanity, and did not get the story to current climbing rags? "
Question is; would they have written about it if they could have back then...?
I'm sure plenty of those "tough guys" came back and boasted their manhood, had song sung about them and stories told about those feats as well.
Probably someone sitting in the back bitching about it too.
Same thing in my mind, but the point seems sincere
Like the internet, boob tube, and mags, if you don't like it leave it...
Lots of "unsung heroes" out there.
Personally I'm always up for learning more about our love.
Thanks for sharing folks!
Cheers,
DD
edit- I don't know but crawling off the Ogre with 2 broken up legs seems a bit on the "tough guy" side, but that's just me...
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