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scuffy b
climber
Zeno's Paradise
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Jul 28, 2008 - 05:35pm PT
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Thanks, k-man.
It's certainly a load off my mind.
I've avoided big climbs for a long while.
I've never really been a fast climber, and I've always
been worried about forcing an unplanned bivi on an
innocent partner.
I climbed the Red Dihedral two weeks ago, and thought it
would be good prep and a confidence booster.
Yes, but...
The big difference: on the Red, nothing slowed me down. I frickin hauled ass.
On Steck-Salathe, EVERYTHING slowed me down.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Jul 28, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
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That's the way I heard the story too Scuffy, though I don't know who it was or from who I heard it(edit'72?): but yea, it sure did add to the aura, thinking how it was proven you could get permanently snubbed out right at the last. And with the Narrows pitch shredding all confidence as to expectabilities, well, that route did have psych power all the way up. What a great accomplishment for you guys to face it down! I am hoping to regain my long lost and seldom practised chimney skills. WAY TO GO!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 28, 2008 - 07:17pm PT
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Allright Will!
Great trip report. That thing is a hell of a climb!
I've never been more beat up than at the end of it.
scuffy b says
"I knew we probably wouldn't die."
You gotta love that realization!
Way to go guys,
Zander
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
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Jul 28, 2008 - 07:30pm PT
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Heavy duty!!...Cool TR, guys. Nicely done!
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 28, 2008 - 07:33pm PT
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...that's when I knew we probably wouldn't die
Zander beat me to it... that was my favorite quote about this route so far!
Nice job Scuffy and ECIYA!
One day it will be my turn. I love and loathe that day. Or days.
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scuffy b
climber
Zeno's Paradise
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Jul 28, 2008 - 07:49pm PT
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Another thing---blah, blah, blah, then..
While this was going on, the last third or so, anyway, my thoughts were along the lines of "at least I don't have to do
this again" and "there's no way I could recommend this to
anybody" and "all this climb has going for it is that it is
so ass-kicking"
BUT
as early as lunchtime the next day--it's o that wouldn't be
so bad with some sleep or maybe if you didn't take four
tries in the Wilson Overhang or if you trailed your
crap in the Narrows and took 10 minutes instead of an hour
I'm so delusional sometimes...
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
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Jul 28, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
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No worries, Scuffy, We ALL are(sometimes).....
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 28, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
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Who knows? I'm contemplating a round #3.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 28, 2008 - 09:29pm PT
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I'm so glad you two hit the summit and made it down safely. Somehow I suspect that was a "one time only" kinda route.
I've taken comfort in knowing that I'd never have to hump it up there to do this route. Now after reading how brutal it is, my climbing partner thinks maybe we should.
Damn you boys... damn you!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 28, 2008 - 09:36pm PT
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You kids'll love it!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Jul 28, 2008 - 10:23pm PT
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Quote:
"BUT
as early as lunchtime the next day--it's o that wouldn't be
so bad with some sleep or maybe if you didn't take four
tries in the Wilson Overhang or if you trailed your
crap in the Narrows and took 10 minutes instead of an hour
I'm so delusional sometimes... "
So f'ing true of me and many of the climbers I know! You nailed it. Self-delusion leads to audacity. Audacity leads to mass suffering and fear. Mass suffering and fear require more self-delusion. More self-delusion leads to greater audacity...
This cycle is the in the DNA of climbing for me, god I love it.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 28, 2008 - 10:58pm PT
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Sooze - surely your climbing partner sent that thing sometime in the murky past?
That rock rules!
Hands the next morning...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 29, 2008 - 12:55am PT
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I've heard you can link it with Mental Block instead of whatever hiking trail leads to the base..... seems like the way to go.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 29, 2008 - 03:10am PT
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Yeah, you can do it that way, but mental block just sorta takes it down to it's own, light, level. hyuck
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cowpoke
climber
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Jul 29, 2008 - 07:54am PT
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tremendous -- you know you're climbing when the uvula swells! thanks for writing this up and sharing!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 29, 2008 - 09:39am PT
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Hmmm, I count 5 hands and they all look like they could be in a commercial for ivory soap.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 29, 2008 - 10:18am PT
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Sorry man, I didn't have an extra hand to snap the shot... :-)
Palmolive
Dishwashing liquid?
You're soaking in it.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Jul 29, 2008 - 11:26am PT
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I love that route. It is a lot like alpine routes.
Kind of grovelly and broken up here and there. No real crux, pretty sustained. I like it a lot better than East Butt or DNB, which are a lot cleaner.... if that makes any sense. Those are more like straight rock climbs. SS feels just like a lot of rock routes in the alps.
The regular route on HD also has that alpine feel to it, other than the zig zags.
And yeah, don't touch those old bolts. They are history.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2008 - 12:28pm PT
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True enough, I was thinking it felt more like an alpine rock route than a long valley route.
But:
"And yeah, don't touch those old bolts. They are history"
You fall on that mank and you might be history too. I never comprehend advocates for preserving the mank...they were solid for the guys who placed em. If you want to preserve them, do it under glass in Ken's museum.
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